Where did you find that boat? The ocean there looks really tame.
Where did you find that boat? The ocean there looks really tame.
I looked hard for one of these.. but bought a suburban with less miles for cheaper..... $3k for 185K miles.. Seqouia's in that price range are rotted out or nearly 300k miles around here..
maybe next summer once I get this rust bucket through winter..
Brett_Murphy (Ex-Patrón) said:Where did you find that boat? The ocean there looks really tame.
That is at Oregon Inlet on the North Carolina Outer Banks. The boat has been there since March. The waves last week were near 15 ft. But very calm now.
Fueled by Caffeine said:I looked hard for one of these.. but bought a suburban with less miles for cheaper..... $3k for 185K miles.. Seqouia's in that price range are rotted out or nearly 300k miles around here..
maybe next summer once I get this rust bucket through winter..
I think I could be convinced that a 300k mile Sequoia is more likely to go to 400k without a major failure than a 185k mile Suburban making it to 285k. Its comforting to see 400k mile examples for sale when you search FB or Craigslist.
Rust is a lot less of an issue here though.
Edit, of course that said, a major repair on a Tahoe is a lot less $. A rebuilt/upgraded transmission, installed is usally well under $2k. I can't imagine that happening on a Sequoia.
Also after reading about Tahoes, I didn't realize that older Tahoes are basically the same size as a Sequoia. I wonder if that is a good alternative for an overland build/camp vehicle.
ProDarwin said:Fueled by Caffeine said:I looked hard for one of these.. but bought a suburban with less miles for cheaper..... $3k for 185K miles.. Seqouia's in that price range are rotted out or nearly 300k miles around here..
maybe next summer once I get this rust bucket through winter..
I think I could be convinced that a 300k mile Sequoia is more likely to go to 400k without a major failure than a 185k mile Suburban making it to 285k. Its comforting to see 400k mile examples for sale when you search FB or Craigslist.
Rust is a lot less of an issue here though.
Edit, of course that said, a major repair on a Tahoe is a lot less $. A rebuilt/upgraded transmission, installed is usally well under $2k. I can't imagine that happening on a Sequoia.
Also after reading about Tahoes, I didn't realize that older Tahoes are basically the same size as a Sequoia. I wonder if that is a good alternative for an overland build/camp vehicle.
The Chevy parts bin for the Tahoe are much more plentiful than the Sequoia of that vintage. You also don't have to worry about timing belts or a weird ball joint design. I considered an old Tahoe but I grew up with all Chevys in my parents household and wanted something different and got a hell of a deal on the Sequoia. It's been a great vehicle thus far.
In reply to ProDarwin :
Im not sure about that.. Suburbans and tahoes are for sale with 300K miles all the time. All the seqouia's Iookoed at needed $1200 of Timing belt right off the bat... Most people want to sell them before the big repair bills..
I will say the toyotas are better screwed together cars.. Just better interiors.. less squeaks and rattles.. but the buy in is higher and the cost to do a timing belt every 80K miles is about the same as doing a transmission in the chevy every 80k miles.. so.... it's a crap shoot.
I woulnd't kick either car out of bed.. I prefer the toyotas, but just couldn't find one I liked that wasn't rotted or have double the miles for the near what I paid for this suburban(suburban also had brand new michelins on it... so $1000 of tires was a bonus).
Holy E36 M3, is a timing service that expensive on the Sequoia?
ProDarwin said:Holy E36 M3, is a timing service that expensive on the Sequoia?
Its time consuming since a lot of things have to come out of the way to get to the timing case. But is absolutely not difficult at all for a shade tree mechanic to do. I think it took me about 5 hours working at the leisurely pace the first time I did it, And I did a few other things while I was doing it. The parts are not any more expensive than any other vehicle.
Full timing belt and water pump kit in various brands. I don't know why those guys would be putting $1,000 of labor on top of that. The only other real cost is refilling the radiator with coolant
In reply to ProDarwin :
Might be able to find it cheaper. But that's about what my buddy paid for his. Dealer rate. Book is like 8 hours?
As a first gen Tundra owner I approve of this thread
ProDarwin said:Holy E36 M3, is a timing service that expensive on the Sequoia?
No; however, it's something that needs to be done every 90-100k. It's pretty straight forward - I don't have the means to do it at my residence in California and the local Toyota/Lexus shopped wants to charge $1000 for parts and labor. Not a bad price in my opinion even though when I worked for Honda a t-belt on a J series was around $660 OTD for a customer and I got 6 hours of labor. I wish I had the means to do so here in California but I'll be in Texas soon so I'll just do it there where I'll have a house, garage, and 5 acres for the same cost of the room I'm renting in LA.
As a Texan... hooray? At least you're a GRM'er 
I think I could be convinced that a 300k mile Sequoia is more likely to go to 400k without a major failure than a 185k mile Suburban making it to 285k.
I don't need any convincing at all!
One thing about the expense of the T-belt job is that if you include the cost of replacing the cooling fan pulley/bearing/bracket assembly, it pretty much doubles the parts cost. I've seen that thing fail several times. It looks like a water pump because of where the pulley is on the front of the engine, but when water pump bearings go out they don't pile up metal shavings on the OUTSIDE of the housing. 
Still, should only have to do that 0-1 times in the life of the vehicle, assuming a quality part is used.
In reply to Vigo (Forum Supporter) :
you're right about the fan... My friend had one fail in a spectacular way... It overheated so much that the motor literally melted out of the plastic that is holding it in place and smashed into the radiator.. at 250k.. he didn't complain, but i've never seen that happen before.
Trying to get the codes but just looking at an 06 that "The check engine light is on due to a Evap leak, because of this leak it takes a couple of cranks before it actually starts but once it starts she runs fine, also tailgate latch isn’t working."
the tailgate latches are plastic pieces of trash. Ive replaced mine twice, one with ebay one with oem. both of them suck. I replaced the striker because that wore out, so the tailgate rattled around. It doesnt rattle around anymore, it just requires you to open the tailgate with one foot shoving the bottom in while you open it.
In reply to Placemotorsports :
This is my first post and haven't even done my profile yet but wanted to chime in on my agreeing with regarding using Denso replacement parts.
My 02 Sequoia is my first toyota I have ever owned and am so blown away with not only the brand but my truck in paticular! I pait $2,000 for my SR5 about 2 years ago. I believe the seller was not too familiar with this truck because it is 100% oem and very complete except for no 2nd or 3rd row seats. It has 306,000 and does not leak or consume any liquids at all!
Im replacing my transmission because the planetary gear went bad a week ago. I already spent the day rolling in the greasey dirt at a local LKQ parts yard and came home with a 04 transmission I removed and brought home myself.
After being under the donor truck to pull the transmission, I cant get over how pristene my under carriage is! Not a lick of rust, not a drop of oil anywhere. The trans fluid compression connectors to my old trans are looking brand new as well. I'll snap a few photos of the underside to blow away forum readers.
BTW, Im going the opposite direction that overlander people go...I'm going for the street low profile look. I removed roof rack, changed my wheels and tires to 20" matte black Pro Comp alloys with 265/45/20 yokohama low profile radials and it already looks very sporty. Being that nobody makes a lowering kit for 1st gen Sequoias, Im just gonna cut springs soon and keep a set of junkyard spare oem springs should I reconsider lowering mine. Running boards are next to come off.
In reply to ProDarwin :
My great running 2002 sr5 with 308,000 mi. finally broke down with the transmissions planetary gear exploding. I've never r & r'ed anything other than an air cooled Volkswagen transaxle but successfully located, removed from donor vehicle and installed it into my truck. Took me by myself 4 days in total and I spent less than $500 in total.
In reply to irish44j (Forum Supporter) :
I would seriously consider a new starter while everything is torn down that far...Personally I would look in LKQ for an oem off a low mile vehicle if available.
lnlogauge said:the tailgate latches are plastic pieces of trash. Ive replaced mine twice, one with ebay one with oem. both of them suck. I replaced the striker because that wore out, so the tailgate rattled around. It doesnt rattle around anymore, it just requires you to open the tailgate with one foot shoving the bottom in while you open it.
Old thread but I had replaced mine as well before a 10k mile road trip I did in October. After about 1000 miles of unpaved roads on that trip it failed. I had built a platform bed and slid totes under it for my trip that were easily accessible with the hatch open. Couldn't access the hatch release with my setup in the middle of the mountains so at the end of the trip I rebuilt the latch and attached some metal wire to the release and ran it out to the edge of the rear window so if that ever happens again, I'm gucci.
DirtyBird222 said:lnlogauge said:the tailgate latches are plastic pieces of trash. Ive replaced mine twice, one with ebay one with oem. both of them suck. I replaced the striker because that wore out, so the tailgate rattled around. It doesnt rattle around anymore, it just requires you to open the tailgate with one foot shoving the bottom in while you open it.
Old thread but I had replaced mine as well before a 10k mile road trip I did in October. After about 1000 miles of unpaved roads on that trip it failed. I had built a platform bed and slid totes under it for my trip that were easily accessible with the hatch open. Couldn't access the hatch release with my setup in the middle of the mountains so at the end of the trip I rebuilt the latch and attached some metal wire to the release and ran it out to the edge of the rear window so if that ever happens again, I'm gucci.
lol, I did the same thing! So I could roll down the window and pull the cable to open it.
Eventually I found a latch someplace that was metal and seemed beefier. I thin kthe other problem is people pull the tailgate up/open while holding the latch, which puts a lot of stress on it. I got in the habit of just using the handle to pop the latch, and then lifting from the bottom of the tailgate metal. Never had any latch issues agin. But it's counterintuitive design.
In reply to Zulus :
Canoes look good on 1st Generation Sequoias.
If I remember the lore correctly, Toyota used the gmt800 Tahoe/suburban as a benchmark for the sequoia. Before I bought my 1st gen Highlander, I was shopping 1st gen Seqouias when I realized I just didn't need that much vehicle. I test drove quite a few and was impressed. They're still on my list for a towing/utility/backwoods camping rig.
RaabTheSaab said:If I remember the lore correctly, Toyota used the gmt800 Tahoe/suburban as a benchmark for the sequoia. Before I bought my 1st gen Highlander, I was shopping 1st gen Seqouias when I realized I just didn't need that much vehicle. I test drove quite a few and was impressed. They're still on my list for a towing/utility/backwoods camping rig.
Though I've moved on to a newer Seqouoia (2010) myself, one of our wheeling/camping friends runs a somewhat-modified 1st gen and it has proven quite capable hanging with the more trail-specific rigs.
Bummer it was a canoe as I have a first gen Tundra with 208k in it, and we had a 2002 Sequoia with 222k when we sold it. As far as I know the 02 is still running strong. I'd like to hope my Tundra will run forever but I have the 06 with the secondary air system which worries me. I also have the sealed transmission and recently the shifts seem to be delayed more than before. Almost like it is holding onto a gear a little longer.
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