One bolt left holding the transmission to the engine on the Ranger. The bolt wouldn't budge and then began to round. I got the EZ-Out and it just appears to be chewing up the bolt head. I'm about to remove anything that is in the way and grind the motherberkeleyer off. Any better ideas?
Heat?
pull the engine and trans and drill it out?
Heat may work once I remove the obstructions. Removing everything? Sure would be nice, but thats more work than I can handle. No cherry picker etc...
Wow. Fiery sunrise this morning in The Lou.
weld a bigger nut to the bolt head?
Tighten then loosen. Common on Fords to have stuck BH bolts. BTDT. 
4cylndrfury wrote: weld a bigger nut to the bolt head?
Thought about it. Not enough room.
Ranger50 wrote: Tighten then loosen. Common on Fords to have stuck BH bolts. BTDT.
Thought about that, but that ez-out really stated chewing that thang up.
N Sperlo wrote: I got the EZ-Out and it just appears to be chewing up the bolt head.
An E-Z Out is a left handed helix with sharp edges that grabs the inside of a hole you drill through most of the stubborn bolt's body.
What is that's grabbing the head?
Dan
Bolt extractors...
Like these:
Yea, so I'm using bolt extractors, not ez-outs. I always got those confused.
Ahh.
Plan C: Knock the head off with a die grinder/cutoff wheel and get the stud out later.
Is the weight of the transmission being held up by that bolt? Maybe add one of the lower bolts back in to help take the weight with a jack or something on the tailshaft?
Just a thought.
I also second the tighten then loosen trick, but if the head is shot then you may be at a point where the head has to come off.
I just removed the catalytic converter on '87 Porsche 911. Bolt heads were unrecognizable and of uncertain size after 25 yrs and numerous heat cycles. Using dremel, sawzall, grinder and cut-off wheel depending on what fit the space, we got the nuts off and then drilled the remaining bolts until the bolt spun free or the head dissolved. I alternated between an air drill and new cordless drill for that chore(my air compressor wasnt big enough and would overheat periodically and the old Ryobi took a dump on me too) so that after numerous broken bits and lots of dust, the bolts were gone. Took less than 15 minutes to put new stainless stuff in their place and mount the bypass pipe. Sometimes it just gets ugly. YMMV
turboswede wrote: Is the weight of the transmission being held up by that bolt? Maybe add one of the lower bolts back in to help take the weight with a jack or something on the tailshaft?
Could very well be. I know when I would remove 2.3 transmissions, I would leave the two bolts that face the other way in until the other 4 were out.
Maybe a gator socket? The splines twist and grab with less risk of chewing as with the extractors.
whenry wrote: Sometimes it just gets ugly. YMMV
truth. not helpful to the OP, but truth nonetheless.
gjz30075 wrote: Plan C: Knock the head off with a die grinder/cutoff wheel and get the stud out later.
This was what I was planning on doing. It started raining as I was making room in the engine bay, so I'll continue later. I may be able to get a smaller cutter.
The weight was not an issue as I put two bolts back in the bottom.
AngryCorvair wrote:whenry wrote: Sometimes it just gets ugly. YMMVtruth. not helpful to the OP, but truth nonetheless.
This just made me LOL.
I think I'll only be able to get at it was a sawzall. Any suggestion on blade?
Milwaukee Torch blades
Use the demolition blade. It's much stronger and made for abuse.
moparman76_69 wrote: Milwaukee Torch blades
I've cut head studs with this.
Raze wrote:moparman76_69 wrote: Milwaukee Torch bladesI've cut head studs with this.
This. The two I bought for my HF sawzall lasted longer than the tool, and the three year extended warranty. :/ Damn broken shoe.
C'mon Sperlo, I know you have a shotgun. Why has this taken so long? 
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