2001 Subaru legacy clutch and such learn me!

I just picked up a really decent 2001 Subaru legacy 2.5, 155,000 miles. Test drive was great, 15 mins from home the clutch starts slipping:( It appears it's very easy to pull the motor and get access to the clutch, a lot easier than from underneath. I have trouble working on my back lately anyway. I'm thinking if I pull the motor I should do the timing belt and main seals while I'm at it. Head gaskets seem okay, should I leave them alone? Or do it now while I have the chance? Anything else?

Thanks, Joey

if the head gaskets are original change them while the motor is out.

old_ wrote: if the head gaskets are original change them while the motor is out.

I don't know if they are. May be best to just do it.

Joey

These cars are pretty easy to work on. The transmission is easy to drop, but there is a fair amount to remove first. But everything is easy to get to. On the other hand, the motor is also easy to remove. It's pretty much a toss up. The timing belt is also easy in the car, once you pull the radiator. If I needed to just do the clutch, I'd pull the tranny. For both, may as well pull the engine.

Unless you have documented proof that the timing belt was done I would change it. The head gaskets are known weak spots but that's up to you. I would update the Indiana plate to steel if you still have the aluminum one in there and re-seal the access port on the other side. I would not touch the rear main seal unless it is actually leaking.

And you didn't ask, but I like regular exedy clutches and I am not a fan of lightweight flywheels on these cars.

I almost forgot:

Once you have the engine out that might be the easiest time to replace the valve cover gaskets.

Indiana plate? And wouldn't it be a good chance to freshen the rear main while it's right there?

Joey

I think its called the oil separator plate, but it is shaped like indiana. The aluminum ones were updated to steel at some point though I don't know of a hard and fast date on the change. There is a small access port on the other side of the crank that frequently leaks too. I have only ever changed a rear main seal on an engine case that was split. Strangely the rear main is one of the few seals on a Subaru that doesn't leak.

Any particular head gasket and head bolts? I'm sure arp are great, but at 5 times the cost it's hard to justify.

Joey

Ojala wrote: I almost forgot: Once you have the engine out that might be the easiest time to replace .

FTFY. Sorry, someone had to say it

In reply to joey48442:

No benefit to ARP for a stock car. Stock HG and bolts are good. Victor Reinz makes a good HG for about $20. I'm not a fan of cometic HG because they are so picky about finish on the heads and block and I haven't seen any benefit when the Reinz is cheap and good.

Cool. I don't mind quality parts, but I don't like spending unecessary money.

Joey

In reply to CGLockRacer:

I have been tempted sooooo many times.

RWD with One of the general's new 4.3 alum block v6s would be nice.

Ideally you pull them motor, take it down to the shortblock and replace every rubber parts and gasket you come across. If you just want to do the clutch, its fastest to drop the trans.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: Ideally you pull them motor, take it down to the shortblock and replace every rubber parts and gasket you come across. If you just want to do the clutch, its fastest to drop the trans.

Hmmmmm. I kinda think I should do all the rest of this stuff while I've got a chance, get it all up to par at once.

Joey