Sent my son's Ram 50 to the mechanic to see why the engine was down on power. Comes back with knock (didn't have one went it went in). It only knocks in the mid rpm range (2500 - 4500) more so when under load. All that was done was timing and my wife topped off with regular 87 octane fuel. Backing the timing if only helps a little. Mechanic thinks it is rod knock, but doesn't quite sound like it, especially at idle or at high rpms when it is dead quite. I would like to get a few more months out of this engine. I was thinking of an early Talon / Eclipse swap.
Stuck mechanical advance coupled with vacuum advance throwing out too much timing?
Forgot to mention that vacuum advance was disconnected. I hooked it up and I think it made a little difference, but it still knocks under load. It did drop the idle speed way down.
I think I am going the DSM 2.0 route. Then first gen DSM 2.0's should bolt up to the stock transmission.
Vigo
HalfDork
6/14/10 9:01 a.m.
document it and post about it so i can copy you with mine
I've got a long-block from the Colt rally car that's been tucked in a friend's garage for ~5-years. The PO told me it had a "hot cam", but one cylinder was down on compression. LMK if you're interested, it's located in 60963.
In reply to petegossett:
Either way I would have to build the bottom end. I could do that with mine. The engine I have has a new head which is three months old, If I build the bottom end I will be set.
Vigo wrote:
document it and post about it so i can copy you with mine
Problem. I would have to cut the fire wall to do the DSM 2.0 as the thermostat housing will not clear.
Will a turbo Starquest 2.6L drop in?
In reply to RexSeven:
Yes it would. The 2L would take a different bell housing.
Vigo
HalfDork
6/14/10 8:00 p.m.
people get around that by using the dohc top end on a 2.4L sohc 4g64 'truck block' which has the proper bellhousing already.
On that same note, if you were to build a bellhousing adapter to use the 2.0 4g63 bottom end with your existing bellhousing, you could include the necessary space for the thermo housing in it's design.
Or switch to the Hyundai housing that doesn't have the radiator cap on it and see if that gives enough clearance. You'd have to run the cap on the radiator. Never seen one actually installed in person so I can't say if that info is helpful.