$3k 944 Turbo?

Am I nuts to be considering an '86 951 off c-list with an asking price of $3k? It would be an autocross/track rat with occasional commutes to work and weekend back road blasts mixed in. Supposedly it's mechanically sound with 200 miles on a t-belt and water pump but cosmetically challenged - bad repaint with a slight bit of rust and a dent, interior carpet shot, dash cracked, radio fubar'd. I'm going to see it on Monday if it doesn't sell before then. That asking price just has me afraid, a 951 that cheap must have i$$ue$.

Sounds like a great track or DD car although I wonder if the clutch has been done.

I found out more info - seller got it at a police auction and the only records are for the work that the seller just had done. Carfax says odo replacement twice so mileage unknown. Seller says clutch feels fine, but that could be a bomb with a very short fuse. I'll drive it and see how it feels.

Sounds to me like a sweet find if you don't plan to fix the cosmetic issues or could fix them yourself. The cost to pay someone to make it pretty would probably outweigh the money saved on initial purchase.

My girlfriend really wants a 944, so I'll be sure not to have this thread open while she's around.

For 3k I'd check it out real close and if it seems decent take the gamble IF you can do most of whatever work it needs yourself.

I'm wrapping up the waterpump and belt job on my 87 right now. The shop wanted 1500...I'll be out my time and around 500 in parts. The job is a pain, but these cars are a blast to drive, so can be worth the extra pain and suffering. Since the owner just completed that job at least you won't have to worry about it....other than maybe double checking the tension on the TB.

Guarantee that car needs at least $7,000 worth of work. There's NO WAY I'd buy one of these without an extensive service record history.

Things to check: Clutch (very expensive and labor intensive) Oil pan gasket (ditto and you do rod bearings at the same time) Motor mounts All the front oil seals and belts/rollers/water pump Turbo Electrics Sunroof

Etc, etc...

I bet it has more issues than the $500 E30 that sacred you away.

2002maniac wrote: I bet it has more issues than the $500 E30 that sacred you away.

LOL! It was mostly rust issues that scared me away on the E30; I wasn't comfortable with the structural integrity of the car anymore.

I know that this car is probably a ticking time bomb but I figure it's worth checking out.

Yeah, I think the strong probability is that it's got serious issues. I'd really be worried about the turbo. I can pretty much guarantee it will need some work.

At the very least, I'd take it for a pre-purchase inspection.

I don't know if the Clutch on a turbo is a bigger job than on a regular 944. It's still a very daunting task, but is doable in a garage. That said, the fact that my 944Spec racer had just had the clutch replaced was a big selling point for me.

Edit: This is neither a "buy" or "don't buy" sentiment. It's a "figure out what the real cost in money and time will be" and decide from there.

Buy it. They're fun cars, they aren't that bad to work on and the Turbos are appreciating in value now, so if you do spend too much, you'll just have to keep it a while.

It's cheap because it probably does need a bunch of work, and people who factor the work at $90/hr + parts @ retail won't go near it.

If you can do the work yourself, you won't get hurt.

Just think of it as any work needed is a chance to upgrade.

DO IT.

Sorry for the dumb question, but why is the clutch such a PITA?

sounds like a bunch of Bob Costas giving advice. it's three grand, berkeley a PPI, just buy it! The transaxle alone is worth a grand if it's not broken, so you could probably part it and make some loot if you decide not to drive it.

to procainestart, the clutch is difficult because the car has a rear transaxle and a torque tube that have to be removed to get to the bellhousing. problem is, the exhaust has to come out to get the torque tube out, and on the '86 951 the turbo downpipe is a welded part of the exhaust in front of the cat, so dropping the exhaust means removing the turbo. to porche people, that is. I'd sawzall that pipe and put a slip-fit connection in when i had it all apart.

OTOH, the 951 doesn't have the rubber-center clutch disc like the 944, so they live a lot longer.

Damnation!!! Now you guys have me leaving the security of the forum and checking CL...ah, nuts! I s'pose I have to....sometime....

Well...I bought a $3k 951 a few years back and it was one of my favorite cars. I'd still have it if some HS kid didn't think it needed to live any longer.

But.....it took a LOT more than $3k to make it a reliable driver, even doing a lot of the work myself. They are fairly complicated and there is a lot that can go wrong with these. Some parts are dirt cheap, some are outrageous, but once you get it up to "code", they are tons of fun. I've owned a lot of fast cars, but none were faster over 100mph, and none were more stable at those speeds.

I really wish I still had it, as it was like a crack addiction, only worse.

Racerdave hit it right on the head....it is like crack. Everytime I work on mine I want to sell it, but as soon as I drive it I have to keep it. I love driving them.

AngryCorvair wrote: sounds like a bunch of Bob Costas giving advice. it's three grand, berkeley a PPI, just buy it! The transaxle alone is worth a grand if it's not broken, so you could probably part it and make some loot if you decide not to drive it. to procainestart, the clutch is difficult because the car has a rear transaxle and a torque tube that have to be removed to get to the bellhousing. problem is, the exhaust has to come out to get the torque tube out, and on the '86 951 the turbo downpipe is a welded part of the exhaust in front of the cat, so dropping the exhaust means removing the turbo. to porche people, that is. I'd sawzall that pipe and put a slip-fit connection in when i had it all apart. OTOH, the 951 doesn't have the rubber-center clutch disc like the 944, so they live a lot longer.

Exactly! Buy it and drive it like you stole it! The clutch is not nearly as bad of a job as everyone makes it out to be, and as angry said, it shouldn't have the rubber hub clutch disk, and the sprung disks last forever. Some parts are expensive, but using a little ingenuity and searching for the bargains will save you a E36 M3 load of money.

Well, I just got done looking at the car. It's beat but goes like stink. Somewhat literally; it has an exhaust leak into the interior that left me slightly ill after a 15 minute drive. Cracked paint and really poor repairs everywhere on the exterior but major rust. The rear valence panel is shot but might be repairable. Interior needs a good cleaning to start and from there the dash is cracked in about 7 spots and the switch panels on the dash are a mixed bag. Turn signals and cruise no workey. Ebrake handle is seized. But, the turbo spools smoothly and provides good boost, the clutch is tight and grippy, it steers sweetly with no front end clunks, brakes bite ok but would probably get an overhaul, there's no milkshake in the oil and no obvious leaks. A/C not working, hatch doesn't want to release, etc. The story is it was a drug dealers car that was seized and held in impound for 3 years before being sold to the current owner 2 or 3 years ago. It'd make a good track rat with a little work. My biggest concern is I don't think I'll fit with a helmet; there's at most 1.5" of head room without a helmet. I may lowball him and see how badly he wants it gone.

I have a set of Corbeau seat brackets for that car, I'm not using them so they would be yours for the price of shipping. They actually are the same as a 911, in case you're looking at seating solutions. That should help with the head room.

The rear hatch is a problem on all of the 924/944 series cars, even well cared for cars have this problem. Don't sweat it too much, just requires making sure all is in good shape and climbing into the hatch, while the car is level and adjusting the mechanisms. Even then it may not always work right depending on where the car is parked and/or how warm or cold it is.

Pay attention to the hatch frame and make sure the glass isn't separating from frame. This will cause fumes in the cabin, water leaks and difficulty in operating the hatch. A good glass guy can remove the glass and replace it with fresh adhesive and it will be good to go for a few more decades.

Most of the electrical problems stem from poor grounds under the dash and bad connections elsewhere. Some time spent cleaning and tightening connections should get you closer to finding the real problems with the electrical systems.

Well, my lowball offer wasn't low enough because the seller accepted it So now I own a 944 Turbo for $2250. I'll post detailed pics when I pick it il probably this weekend.

pigeon wrote: Well, my lowball offer wasn't low enough because the seller accepted it So now I own a 944 Turbo for $2250. I'll post detailed pics when I pick it il probably this weekend.

Nice! That car is so cheap it worth it just for the parts.

It wil cost you to make it into nice driver. not so much to make it a track beater though.

Awesome

Awesome

I officially hate you.. .. . 2,250!!!!! I have been looking for one for that kind of $$$$ with a bad motor for my LM4 project.. .. .

On the other side of it that means I should be about to get one with a blown up motor for say 1,500

If you are going to track it better plan on oiling improvements as they like to eat the #2 bearing on tracks with sweeping left handers (ask me how I know this) My solution was an accusump, the two quart one, and all has been good.