5.3 GM engines, what manual trans?

Order a flywheel for a 2006 Silverado 4.8l with manual transmission.

for autocross, any of those trans should do. autocross only uses the first two or three gears anyway. Should be easy to match a rear ratio to match any of the above.

I had an S10 with a 5.3/T56 and 4.10s. Good match. I would think a T5/NV3550/AX15 should be a good value alternative.

I have the internet disapproved glass wc T5 from a V6 camaro for the 4.8L going in my Volvo with 3.73. We'll see how long it will last once I get it together . . .

othere than the obvious displacement difference and what the case is built of. What is the difference between the 4800 and the 5.3. Bore? Stroke? Both?

mad_machine wrote: othere than the obvious displacement difference and what the case is built of. What is the difference between the 4800 and the 5.3. Bore? Stroke? Both?

Stroke, mainly.

More detail: http://www.pera.org/articles/eb120317.htm

good info. I keep thinking I might get a 4800 when the 4.6 in my rover goes pop

Going from semi loose to semi grip on rough surfaces, which trans can handle the torque of a mild V8.

Anything but the T5, I've heard the Saginaw is kinda meh too. If the T5 were truly as strong as some claim GM would have used them behind the 350 in the IrocZ.

Super T-10 and a 5.3, I am liking this more and more

Kenny_McCormic wrote: Anything but the T5, I've heard the Saginaw is kinda meh too. If the T5 were truly as strong as some claim GM would have used them behind the 350 in the IrocZ.

And I have both the garage for the expensive sum of $275.

aussiesmg wrote: Super T-10 and a 5.3, I am liking this more and more

For what you have planned, I think that's the best way to go. Sounds like you will be between 2nd and 3rd.

Speaking of the glass jaw T5, didn't you have on in your S10??

Lots of 3000lb mustangs run 11's and 12's on the 'glass' T5. You can get pretty strong gearsets as well, but not cheap. The WC trans is rated to ~300ft-lbs of tq.

Or look at TKO-500's?

You can't put much torque to dirt through two wheels.

Strike_Zero wrote:

aussiesmg wrote: Super T-10 and a 5.3, I am liking this more and more

For what you have planned, I think that's the best way to go. Sounds like you will be between 2nd and 3rd. Speaking of the glass jaw T5, didn't you have on in your S10??

Yes, but it was rough into 3rd up and impossible to downshift into 2nd, not a good plan for a rallycrosser IMHO.

It amazed me that the rear end broke in $2010 and not the T5

Mustang WC T5s are reputedly stronger than Chev, but they are also a lottery.

mazdeuce wrote: You can't put much torque to dirt through two wheels.

Until you suddenly find grip and shock the entire drivetrain.

novaderrik wrote:

curtis73 wrote: A better question... what's it going in? Ratios vary widely and it depends on your weight, use, etc. T56 is a fantastic tranny, but with the steep 2.66 first and double OD 0.50, it really needs some pretty high (numerical) final drive gears to match. For instance, I have a T56 to put in my Impala SS. Original setup was 4L60E and 3.08 gears. To keep the same basic final drive spread I switched to 4.10s. T10 is like the first four gears of a T56 minus ODs. Big difference in spread.

a while back i was researching what it would take to swap a 5.3 or 6.0 into my GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 with the cast iron 4 speed in it, and what i came up with was a flywheel for a 99-01 6.0 and a pilot bearing for a 98-02 Trans Am or Z28, with my existing clutch being reused... other than the motor mount adapter plates (6 holes drilled in a piece of 1/8" steel- whoopty doo), that was all it would take to physically get one of those motors into the truck.. these same parts would work for any other trans that bolts up to a small block, provided that you started out with a bellhousing that clears the 14" flywheel and 11" clutch.. kind of off topic, but oddly enough an 8100 is an even easier swap- take the flywheel from the 307 that's in my truck and bolt that up to the 8100 and put it all back together and drop it back in using the existing engine mounts, with only metric bolts being used to bolt the bellhousing to the engine instead of the 3/8" bolts that are in it now...

What was your original clutch out of? Is it from a SBC?

aussiesmg wrote:

novaderrik wrote:

curtis73 wrote: A better question... what's it going in? Ratios vary widely and it depends on your weight, use, etc. T56 is a fantastic tranny, but with the steep 2.66 first and double OD 0.50, it really needs some pretty high (numerical) final drive gears to match. For instance, I have a T56 to put in my Impala SS. Original setup was 4L60E and 3.08 gears. To keep the same basic final drive spread I switched to 4.10s. T10 is like the first four gears of a T56 minus ODs. Big difference in spread.

a while back i was researching what it would take to swap a 5.3 or 6.0 into my GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 with the cast iron 4 speed in it, and what i came up with was a flywheel for a 99-01 6.0 and a pilot bearing for a 98-02 Trans Am or Z28, with my existing clutch being reused... other than the motor mount adapter plates (6 holes drilled in a piece of 1/8" steel- whoopty doo), that was all it would take to physically get one of those motors into the truck.. these same parts would work for any other trans that bolts up to a small block, provided that you started out with a bellhousing that clears the 14" flywheel and 11" clutch.. kind of off topic, but oddly enough an 8100 is an even easier swap- take the flywheel from the 307 that's in my truck and bolt that up to the 8100 and put it all back together and drop it back in using the existing engine mounts, with only metric bolts being used to bolt the bellhousing to the engine instead of the 3/8" bolts that are in it now...

What was your original clutch out of? Is it from a SBC?

for swapping in a generic LS engine? if so, then yeah.. whatever the computer at the parts store says fits a 79 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 with the 4 speed granny gear trans- i think it's actually a 12" clutch, but that's an HD pickup only clutch size.. it only works with the early 6.0 flywheel because they kept the same magical dimensions that makes the same trans and clutch fit as the old V8 engines on those applications for some reason- right down to the 3/8-16 holes that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel where every other LS application used metric bolts..

but since all old school V8 engines use the same flywheels and clutches- with the only differences being diameter and trans input shaft spline count- you just get a clutch for whatever old school car the trans is out of and/or the flywheel you are using and use the 6.0 flywheel (if you can find one...)..

is this the flywheel?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/McLeod-Flywheel-Steel-168-Tooth-30-lb-Internal-Engine-Balance-Chevy-4-8-5-3-/111160136931?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e1a914e3&vxp=mtr

Save yer $$$$ (unless you want the SFI rating) and get this one:

SACHS Part # NFW1050

• RockAuto - $56.79
• O'Reilly's - $55.99

In reply to novaderrik:

the clutch doesn't affect the flywheel for SBC, in regards to the 12" flywheel (truck size).

You can use that clutch (disk/pp) on either the 1 piece or 2 piece rear main seal blocks which is nice.

so in summary what you are saying is to manual swap an LS just get a 6.0L LS flywheel and use the ancient clutch?

Strike_Zero wrote: Save yer $$$$ (unless you want the SFI rating) and get this one: SACHS Part # NFW1050 - RockAuto - $56.79 - O'Reilly's - $55.99

Awesome, the engine will be close to stock so that will be fine on a 2800lb vehicle

Check out that video I posted on the first page. It goes through it step by step.

I will, its difficult to watch on the road as I am using shared web access, I will watch tonight.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: Anything but the T5, I've heard the Saginaw is kinda meh too. If the T5 were truly as strong as some claim GM would have used them behind the 350 in the IrocZ.

And the 350 in the IROC was a measly 180 hp, right?

f-bodies are known for their traction limits. The T5 isn't the weak point, its the 7.5" rear. Put sticky tires on them and the 7.5 goes first.

As long as you don't hop up the 5.3L (and in a light-butt truck like yours) I don't think you will kill it. Wheel hop will probably toast the output shaft or tailhousing, but traction bars should prevent that.

T10 should take abuse all day.

The IROC had a different, stronger, Australian rear axle, and 330-345 ft lbs depending on year.