Dealer in OH is offering basically free labor to install the Roush supercharger, but once you add any options at all, the price goes up - and up - and UP.
Dealer in OH is offering basically free labor to install the Roush supercharger, but once you add any options at all, the price goes up - and up - and UP.
Harvey wrote: Just came here to post this. This sounds like the base price of a BMW, exists only on paper.
Couple people online have done the base car. But the dealer has said that most re in the 50-55K range by the time they are done withe cosmetics and some drive-train strengthening.
I would not trust the manual transmission with that must power and definitely not with just a parts warranty which is all you get on the drive-train.
Yeah, pretty much what I was thinking too, especially the differential. The stock tire size is P235/50R18 as well, woefully inadequate for 700+ hp.
jstein77 wrote: Yeah, pretty much what I was thinking too, especially the differential. The stock tire size is P235/50R18 as well, woefully inadequate for 700+ hp.
Says hoon?
Harvey wrote: This sounds like the base price of a BMW, exists only on paper.
It could be worse...At least it's not like the base price of a Porsche.
I know my dad bought a brand new '15 last year then promptly put in the FRPP version of the same roush s/c. Now it's reflashed to 670hp....
The only upgrade he did was the cv axles at 1800$/set.... Still has the stock clutch and 6spd in it.
Ranger50 wrote: I know my dad bought a brand new '15 last year then promptly put in the FRPP version of the same roush s/c. Now it's reflashed to 670hp.... The only upgrade he did was the cv axles at 1800$/set.... Still has the stock clutch and 6spd in it.
Yes. But is he tracking the car, or otherwise beating on it?
Big HP on stock will last if you don't ever use it.
z31maniac wrote:Ranger50 wrote: I know my dad bought a brand new '15 last year then promptly put in the FRPP version of the same roush s/c. Now it's reflashed to 670hp.... The only upgrade he did was the cv axles at 1800$/set.... Still has the stock clutch and 6spd in it.Yes. But is he tracking the car, or otherwise beating on it? Big HP on stock will last if you don't ever use it.
99% of people never track cars and are happy with them. If you think you can't use that much power on the street then you've never driven cars like this. Yes, you can only use it for short bursts, but trust me, a regular Mustang GT feels slow after spending time driving a 662hp GT500.
It's perfectly OK not to track a car, I've pretty much lost interest in track days, racing and autocross if I'm honest. If you told me I'd be making that statement 15 years ago I'd have laughed in your face, but it's true non the less.
If you really wanted to track a Mustang you'd wait for the mark up to go away on the GT350 rather than buy one of these anyway.
z31maniac wrote:Ranger50 wrote: I know my dad bought a brand new '15 last year then promptly put in the FRPP version of the same roush s/c. Now it's reflashed to 670hp.... The only upgrade he did was the cv axles at 1800$/set.... Still has the stock clutch and 6spd in it.Yes. But is he tracking the car, or otherwise beating on it? Big HP on stock will last if you don't ever use it.
Isn't this how it works?
Step 1: Mod vehicle
Step 2: Drive it until something breaks
Step 3: Upgrade broken part(s)
Step 4: Repeat Step 2
Everybody on other internet forums are slamming this for the lack of supporting mods.
Personally I think it's awesome. There's nothing preventing you from other supporting mods, and as the dealer has noted, MOST are being sold at the $50-$55K range with further mods added.
There's something to be said for wrapping a proven package together from the start, with a parts warranty, and then modding as you wish from there forwards, rather than being forced into a factory upgraded (brake/suspension/etc.) package that you'd rather not spend money on only to upgrade further later.
Plus you can wrap it up cleanly into the car payment to appease the significant other rather than writing checks for thousands on a blower and tuning after also having just bought a brand new car.
People are annoyed with this because it's a typical bait and switch. Oh, you can have the $40k 727hp car, but of course it will break as soon as you start using all 727hp.
Don't worry, the new owner of a 700+ horsepower Mustang GT will crash it WAY before failing components become an issue.
Adrian_Thompson wrote: 99% of people never track cars and are happy with them. If you think you can't use that much power on the street then you've never driven cars like this. Yes, you can only use it for short bursts, but trust me, a regular Mustang GT feels slow after spending time driving a 662hp GT500. It's perfectly OK not to track a car, I've pretty much lost interest in track days, racing and autocross if I'm honest. If you told me I'd be making that statement 15 years ago I'd have laughed in your face, but it's true non the less. If you really wanted to track a Mustang you'd wait for the mark up to go away on the GT350 rather than buy one of these anyway.
Ummmm, you realize I've tens of thousands of miles on sport bikes, on the street and the track. So I'm well aware of being able to use it on the street. However, blasting up an on-ramp here or there, or going down a twisty road, doesn't tax the car anything like a 20 minute session on track does. And that's what I'M interested in.
Take your assumptions elsewhere chief.
STM317 wrote:z31maniac wrote:Isn't this how it works? Step 1: Mod vehicle Step 2: Drive it until something breaks Step 3: Upgrade broken part(s) Step 4: Repeat Step 2Ranger50 wrote: I know my dad bought a brand new '15 last year then promptly put in the FRPP version of the same roush s/c. Now it's reflashed to 670hp.... The only upgrade he did was the cv axles at 1800$/set.... Still has the stock clutch and 6spd in it.Yes. But is he tracking the car, or otherwise beating on it? Big HP on stock will last if you don't ever use it.
No.
It goes:
Step 1: Do Research.
Step 2: Fix known weak spots before they break, so you don't end up stranded or breaking something else.
Step 3: Smugly laugh at the guy who blew up the clutch in his 700hp Mustang as you turn on the AC and keep driving.
z31maniac wrote:STM317 wrote:No. It goes: Step 1: Do Research. Step 2: Fix known weak spots before they break, so you don't end up stranded or breaking something else. Step 3: Smugly laugh at the guy who blew up the clutch in his 700hp Mustang as you turn on the AC and keep driving.z31maniac wrote:Isn't this how it works? Step 1: Mod vehicle Step 2: Drive it until something breaks Step 3: Upgrade broken part(s) Step 4: Repeat Step 2Ranger50 wrote: I know my dad bought a brand new '15 last year then promptly put in the FRPP version of the same roush s/c. Now it's reflashed to 670hp.... The only upgrade he did was the cv axles at 1800$/set.... Still has the stock clutch and 6spd in it.Yes. But is he tracking the car, or otherwise beating on it? Big HP on stock will last if you don't ever use it.
Yes, but how do they become "known weak spots" unless somebody just slaps it on and tries it?
STM317 wrote: Yes, but how do they become "known weak spots" unless somebody just slaps it on and tries it?
Common sense and previous history.
I know you're arguing on the internet for the sake of it, but if you really think the drivetrain is going to be reliable with nearly 75% increase in load, there is no point in continuing to fall for your bait.
z31maniac wrote:STM317 wrote: Yes, but how do they become "known weak spots" unless somebody just slaps it on and tries it?Common sense and previous history. I know you're arguing on the internet for the sake of it, but if you really think the drivetrain is going to be reliable with nearly 75% increase in load, there is no point in continuing to fall for your bait.
I'm just saying that at some point, somebody has to be the guinea pig, otherwise you're just throwing money at it. Why spend big money upgrading the hundreds of components in an entire drivetrain if all you need to do is upgrade halfshafts, or change out some suspension bushings, etc. It's easy in this day and age to let other people be the first to do it, and break their stuff, then read about it on the internet and try to learn from their experience. Nobody wants to break their stuff, and nobody wants to spend big money and lots of time upgrading things that don't need to be upgraded, but it has to happen for the rest of us to know what is and is not worth upgrading.
It's like those of us that complain about how stupid it is to buy new cars, and say we'll wait to buy it used in a couple of years but then bemoan when Company X stops selling their low volume sports car due to slow sales. Somebody has to step up and be first in order for the rest of us to benefit.
I can tell ya if I bought one only thing I would option is the upgraded cv axles. After that I know the clutch and driveshaft are marginal, they're good for 5-600hp. So, then it's new trans, T56 time, new clutch, since the splines are different, and one piece driveshaft to match because you'll need the yoke for the T56.
Then is on the suspension with new shocks, struts, and springs and to fix the flexible links in the IRS.
You can then look for even more power with exhaust upgrades but then you'd be right at the limit for the current rods and pistons.
I'll stop there before I hit 65k spent in imaginary money.....
Oh great, they take the most dangerous vehicle in the world and give it more power! Thanks a lot satan... I mean, "Ford".
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