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02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
6/11/18 3:44 p.m.

I know we've got a few owners of BMW E8x 1-series and E9x 3-series cars on here, so I figured I'd pass along some first-hand experience with suspension upgrades. While these have been extensively covered on the various BMW forums, I've found the quality of those discussions, well, varied.

My car is a 2009 128i with the M-Sport package, which was probably a lot more meaningful 115k miles ago when it was new. The previous owner took the first step and installed Bilstein HDs and Eibach lowering springs, which are very nice, but there was more to do. To get things back in shape, I installed new TRW M3 control arms front and rear (eight arms total) and Whiteline rear subframe bushing inserts.

The arms are generally considered to make the biggest difference in the front. I can't say, since I did them all at the same time. For the size of the job it was pleasantly straightforward and for the most part quite simple. Unlike my old E39 and many other BMWs, there is very little disassembly that needs to take place to get the arms swapped - no sliding the struts out of the knuckle or such things. Further, the ball joints on these cars do not require a removal tool; once the nut is removed they just fall out (yes, by design). It was really astonishingly easy, especially in the front; the back is a bit more crowded and it's harder to get an impact in there, so you need to use hand tools a bit more often.

Fitting the new arms was painless except for the front lower control arms. The original arms use a bushing inboard, while the M3 pieces use a ball joint. Getting that into the subframe was not possible without a little persuasion with a mallet. The rears look very similar to each other (just a little difference in length) and mount with one convex to the ground and one concave; it would be very easy to get the wrong ones in there, so look at the layout on realoem.com and double-check the part numbers to make sure you've got it right. Non-M cars use straight pressed steel arms in the rear, so it's not simply a case of matching up the new ones with what's already in there. Get new hardware for all the arms; while only some are torque-to-yield, it's so much nicer working with nice clean bolts, especially if you're in the rust belt.

Alignment will be needed urgently, as the front lower control arms add about 0.75deg of negative camber, which will cause the toe to be all whacked out as well. I ended up with about -0.80deg in the front and -1.60deg in the rear.

The RSFB inserts address one of the glaring weaknesses of these cars: the floaty rear end. Speculation is that BMW used soft, voided bushings to mitigate the harshness of the OE runflats, but whatever the reason, they were like soft cheese on my 9-year-old car and very noticeable. The inserts simply lock in to fill the voids with pre-molded polyurethane. Dropping the subframe is not difficult; again, there is little else that needs to be removed to gain access, and by dropping one end and then the other (install the rears first, then the fronts) everything stays aligned. The voids may be full of dirt, which needs to be cleaned out, and soapy water helps get everything in place easily.

The arms are not exactly inexpensive at around $800 for all eight plus new hardware. The RSFB inserts are cheap, $45. Even if the arms are too pricey, I consider the Whiteline inserts a must-do for anyone with one of these cars; there's no downside and significant improvement.

The net result of all this is really, really nice handling. The slop of the rear end is much reduced, and the steering and tracking through corners is brilliant. The whole job could be easily done in a day or less, especially if you have an impact. I didn't have to do the struts, shocks, and springs, but it would certainly be a good time to do so if one wanted to change them out. I can't recommend this upgrade highly enough for those with higher mileage cars. It's not that things were bad when I got the car - not at all - but the incremental improvement makes the whole package both handle better and feel smoother and more civilized.

Anyway, that's it. Hope it helps someone.

z31maniac
z31maniac MegaDork
6/11/18 4:30 p.m.

Yeah. I continue to go back and forth on the 135i. 

With Pilot Super Sports and a fun off-ramp, for instance, you really feel the back end moving around. Add basically instant response from the turbo it's easy to get the car loose. 

My car only has 28.5k miles at this point, but it's so clean and low mileage, I'm having trouble deciding if I want to do suspension and go ahead and put tires on the new APEX ARC-8s I have in the garage, or sell the wheels and keep it stock.

secretariata
secretariata SuperDork
6/11/18 4:41 p.m.

Those Arc-8's are some schweeeet wheels. But I may be biased as I have a set on my FRS... smiley

NorseDave
NorseDave Reader
6/11/18 5:31 p.m.

Not to threadjack, but how long have you had the 128i and how has the maintenance/reliability been?  Those are on the short list for my father, who has driven like a grandfather since he was, well, for as long as I've known him (I'm 42), but likes "sporty" cars.  A buddy has a 135i that seems not too great on the maintenance side, but he puts ~12 track days/yr on it and has made a quite a few mods, so, as he says, a lot of it is self-inflicted.

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
6/11/18 7:18 p.m.
z31maniac said:

Yeah. I continue to go back and forth on the 135i. 

With Pilot Super Sports and a fun off-ramp, for instance, you really feel the back end moving around. Add basically instant response from the turbo it's easy to get the car loose. 

My car only has 28.5k miles at this point, but it's so clean and low mileage, I'm having trouble deciding if I want to do suspension and go ahead and put tires on the new APEX ARC-8s I have in the garage, or sell the wheels and keep it stock.

Nothing wrong with keeping it stock - the suspension should be in good shape with such low mileage. But the RSFB inserts are totally worth doing, as those bushings sucked from the factory.

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
6/11/18 7:24 p.m.
NorseDave said:

Not to threadjack, but how long have you had the 128i and how has the maintenance/reliability been?  Those are on the short list for my father, who has driven like a grandfather since he was, well, for as long as I've known him (I'm 42), but likes "sporty" cars.  A buddy has a 135i that seems not too great on the maintenance side, but he puts ~12 track days/yr on it and has made a quite a few mods, so, as he says, a lot of it is self-inflicted.

Reliability has been fine, but my car came with a giant stack of receipts. I did the water pump and thermostat preemptively when I got it, which addressed the one common issue that can leave you stranded. The fact is that, like most BMWs, maintenance has to be kept up with or you'll be playing catch-up for the last guy's neglect. Find a good one with records and there's no reason it shouldn't be reliable. Do be aware that it's quite a low-slung car, so if he has any back or mobility issues getting in and out may be problematic.

NorseDave
NorseDave Reader
6/12/18 6:47 a.m.

Thanks for the feedback.  Fortunately pops remains quite spry - still drives a manual 944 around, so a 128i would be like a captains chair!

z31maniac
z31maniac MegaDork
6/12/18 7:45 a.m.
NorseDave said:

Not to threadjack, but how long have you had the 128i and how has the maintenance/reliability been?  Those are on the short list for my father, who has driven like a grandfather since he was, well, for as long as I've known him (I'm 42), but likes "sporty" cars.  A buddy has a 135i that seems not too great on the maintenance side, but he puts ~12 track days/yr on it and has made a quite a few mods, so, as he says, a lot of it is self-inflicted.

It's important to note whether it's an N54 or N55 car. The early twin-turbo engines suffer much more from HPFP, plugs, injectors, coils. 

z31maniac
z31maniac MegaDork
6/12/18 7:46 a.m.
02Pilot said:
z31maniac said:

Yeah. I continue to go back and forth on the 135i. 

With Pilot Super Sports and a fun off-ramp, for instance, you really feel the back end moving around. Add basically instant response from the turbo it's easy to get the car loose. 

My car only has 28.5k miles at this point, but it's so clean and low mileage, I'm having trouble deciding if I want to do suspension and go ahead and put tires on the new APEX ARC-8s I have in the garage, or sell the wheels and keep it stock.

Nothing wrong with keeping it stock - the suspension should be in good shape with such low mileage. But the RSFB inserts are totally worth doing, as those bushings sucked from the factory.

Yeah, but a slight drop, the satin black ARCs, open up the exhaust just a bit and a tune would really make it a bonkers fun DD.

I'm hesitant to take it on track without an upgraded oil cooler though.

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
6/12/18 8:22 a.m.
z31maniac said:
02Pilot said:
z31maniac said:

Yeah. I continue to go back and forth on the 135i. 

With Pilot Super Sports and a fun off-ramp, for instance, you really feel the back end moving around. Add basically instant response from the turbo it's easy to get the car loose. 

My car only has 28.5k miles at this point, but it's so clean and low mileage, I'm having trouble deciding if I want to do suspension and go ahead and put tires on the new APEX ARC-8s I have in the garage, or sell the wheels and keep it stock.

Nothing wrong with keeping it stock - the suspension should be in good shape with such low mileage. But the RSFB inserts are totally worth doing, as those bushings sucked from the factory.

Yeah, but a slight drop, the satin black ARCs, open up the exhaust just a bit and a tune would really make it a bonkers fun DD.

I'm hesitant to take it on track without an upgraded oil cooler though.

"Bonkers" and "DD" do not go together in my mind, unless paired with "arrestable traffic offense."

Can't speak to the need for mods to make the car trackable, but with the turbos I can see where oil temps could be an issue.

 

z31maniac
z31maniac MegaDork
6/12/18 8:53 a.m.

It's already a mid/upper 4-sec 0-60 car stock. Just a tune is worth 60-65hp/75-80tq. So that would make it pretty quick for a DD. 

Thankfully this is twinscroll N55 car, but yeah. Even just on the street the car runs 235-245° oil temps. Thermostat doesn't open until 230. Serious track guys/TT guys are actually using DUAL oil coolers, one at the front of each fender on the front, on these cars so you don't block the intercooler. 

rothwem
rothwem New Reader
6/12/18 10:05 a.m.

I don't think its any secret that I love these cars.  I've had three of them, and while I don't currently have one right now, I will own another on in the future, its inevitable.  

I never did any crazy-wild mods on mine, mostly because they're really really well sorted for daily driving from the factory.  A set of Michelin summer tires, some Bilstein HDs, and refreshed bushings and you're good for a 4 hour drive to the mountains and then the rest of the day playing in the twisties and you're still fresh for the drive home.  

PseudoSport
PseudoSport Dork
6/12/18 10:52 a.m.

On my 135i I opted for Dinan camber plates. I'm running those along with Bilstein HDs and Eibach lowering and got -2.5 degrees of camber up front. Nice improvement for autocross but for a daily driver they are way harsher then I hoped for on crappy New England roads.

Things that I've had to fix lately: Blower motor resistor and wiring melted, front end links, walnut blast valves again, replace ground strap to body, new battery, code new battery the car, oil housing adapter gaskets, and serpentine belts and tensionsers. Currently its dead in my driveway while I wait on the FRM module to be repaired. They can fry if you jump a dead car or swap the battery sad

Car has also had 2 sets of ignition coils, 2 water pumps, one fuel pump, fuel sending unit (was cracked and spraying fuel),and 8 injectors replaced. Currently the rear main seal is leaking and I can't fill the car up all the way with gas or it leaks. Right now it has 81k miles on it.

I'm kinda of annoyed at it right now and have been test driving new vehicles but I've yet to find something I enjoy driving better. 

 

 

 

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
6/12/18 11:18 a.m.
PseudoSport said:

On my 135i I opted for Dinan camber plates. I'm running those along with Bilstein HDs and Eibach lowering and got -2.5 degrees of camber up front. Nice improvement for autocross but for a daily driver they are way harsher then I hoped for on crappy New England roads.

Things that I've had to fix lately: Blower motor resistor and wiring melted, front end links, walnut blast valves again, replace ground strap to body, new battery, code new battery the car, oil housing adapter gaskets, and serpentine belts and tensionsers. Currently its dead in my driveway while I wait on the FRM module to be repaired. They can fry if you jump a dead car or swap the battery sad

Car has also had 2 sets of ignition coils, 2 water pumps, one fuel pump, fuel sending unit (was cracked and spraying fuel),and 8 injectors replaced. Currently the rear main seal is leaking and I can't fill the car up all the way with gas or it leaks. Right now it has 81k miles on it.

I'm kinda of annoyed at it right now and have been test driving new vehicles but I've yet to find something I enjoy driving better.

That's a lot of camber for the street. I deal with the same sort of roads, and while there are moments when it can be harsh (large sharp-edged transitions, mostly) I generally find it quite comfortable. Are you running 17" or 18" wheels? Runflats or not?

Quite a list of failures on your car. Mine has had a few issues over its life (according to the reciepts), but nothing like yours. Interesting that you mention the fuel tank problems - mine doesn't leak, but I have trouble keeping the pump running when filling unless I rotate the nozzle about 90 degrees. I wonder if there's something happening in there that may cause a failure down the road.

z31maniac
z31maniac MegaDork
6/12/18 11:30 a.m.

^Those aren't terribly uncommon if you look at the N54 cars. That's part of why they are getting so cheap and why I paid a premium for the newest, lowest-mileage N55 car I could find.

rothwem
rothwem New Reader
6/12/18 12:28 p.m.
PseudoSport said:

On my 135i I opted for Dinan camber plates. I'm running those along with Bilstein HDs and Eibach lowering and got -2.5 degrees of camber up front. Nice improvement for autocross but for a daily driver they are way harsher then I hoped for on crappy New England roads.

You might be on the internal bumpstops of the front HDs if you're using them with lowering springs.  You can cut down the internal bumps on the front, and sub in shorter ones on the back.  I've not done it though, only read about it.  

The Bilsteins also tend to break in a bit over a couple thousand miles.  Mine lost the "jitter" in about 3,000 miles.  

PseudoSport
PseudoSport Dork
6/12/18 1:08 p.m.

The car is on 18" RE-71R's and only rides slight better in the winter on 17" snows. Might try putting a zip tie around the shock shafts to check travel and see how close I am to hitting the stops.  

I was expecting -1.7-2 degrees of camber with the fixed plates but ended up with a little more. Tire wear has been much better then stock so I left it alone. 

Oh also the plastic charge pipe blew apart last season during autocross. Replaced it with another plastic one because I didn't want to get bumped up a class but i haven't autocrossed it since. Think that's another problem that's less common on the N55 cars. 

z31maniac
z31maniac MegaDork
6/12/18 1:49 p.m.

^I think it's only less common because because the cars tend to be newer/less miles. It's on my list of things to replace.

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
6/12/18 2:34 p.m.
PseudoSport said:

I was expecting -1.7-2 degrees of camber with the fixed plates but ended up with a little more. Tire wear has been much better then stock so I left it alone. 

That's good to hear. I was a bit concerned that my measly -0.80 F/-1.60 R would be detrimental to tire wear, but it sounds like I don't have to worry too much.

rothwem
rothwem New Reader
6/12/18 3:00 p.m.
PseudoSport said:

Things that I've had to fix lately: Blower motor resistor and wiring melted, front end links, walnut blast valves again, replace ground strap to body, new battery, code new battery the car, oil housing adapter gaskets, and serpentine belts and tensionsers. Currently its dead in my driveway while I wait on the FRM module to be repaired. They can fry if you jump a dead car or swap the battery sad

Hey, just FYI, I think the bolded item is under recall right now, you might be able to get reimbursed if you paid for that repair already.   

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
6/12/18 3:12 p.m.

I think you're thinking of the PCV heater recall. I haven't seen anything about the blower motor resistor, unless it's an older recall that's already been done on my car.

rothwem
rothwem New Reader
6/12/18 3:15 p.m.
02Pilot said:

I think you're thinking of the PCV heater recall. I haven't seen anything about the blower motor resistor, unless it's an older recall.

https://bmw.oemdtc.com/163/safety-recall-17v-676-blower-motor-wiring-2006-2011-bmw-3-series

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCRIT-17V676-3259.pdf

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
6/12/18 3:18 p.m.

Got it. 3-series only, apparently.

fasted58
fasted58 MegaDork
6/12/18 3:26 p.m.

Checked my '09 E92 VIN and it has the Blower Motor Wiring recall but...

'remedy not yet available'

I haven't received notification either. indecision

Thanks for posting that.

PseudoSport
PseudoSport Dork
6/12/18 3:37 p.m.

Yeah the 1 series is not part of the recall even though everything is the same. 3 different dealers wouldn't let me order the repair harness since they were needed for recalled vehicles but they did let me order the connector and pins. If your blower motor starts acting up or you smell something burning, you might want to check the connector. 

 

 

 

 

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