Anybody pulled a 4.0 Jeep Engine Before?

I'm planning to swap a new engine into my Jeep Wrangler (TJ) this weekend. Has anybody here done one before?

I'm wondering if it's easier to disconnect the engine from the transmission while it's still in the Jeep, or to disconnect at the transfer case and pull the engine and transmission out as a unit.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

The skidplate is the trans/x-fer case mount meaning you just about have to pull them both to separate. There's tons of room under there - I'd pull engine only - that being said - I only had to shift things around instead of pull the drivetrain when the wife wanted a lift on her TJ.

Can you get to that those stupid bolts at the top of the bell housing? I think they are inverse torx and they are a pain in the ass. Sometimes you can can let the transmission and transfer case hang enough to get them with extensions and swivels, but on my trail rig Cherokee I just cut holes in the transmission tunnel. I'd say that Wrangler is too nice to cut, so I'd try the other methed first. If that's too much of a pain I'd just drop it all and seperate once it's out.

I've done transfer case swaps before, so I'm familiar with the skid plate, but it's been about three years since I've been under one. I don't remember how much space there is up around the engine.

If you loosen the motor mounts and skid plate - raise the engine a little and lower the skidplate you'll get a little more clearance for the top bolts on the bell - I'm with Cotton - if it puts up a fight - yank it all

That is one looooong powertrain unit. I pulled one out of a Grand Cherokee and IIRC it was almost 8 feet from the crank snout to the slip yoke on the transfer case. We did it that way because the transmission bolts were a serious pain to get to. On the grand, the top part of the core support unbolted and gave a lot more room once you pulled the radiator and condenser...don't know if the TJ is the same or not.

I've done it once. Didn't have any problems unbolting motor from transmission. I can tell you that it's a VERY heavy motor. The Wrangler might be easier, but in a Cherokee or Grand Cherokee, a balance bar for your hoist is a huge help. On the GC, it had to come out at almost a 45deg angle to clear the firewall sill.

-Chris

For the top bolts you will need a reverse torx E-12 socket. In a pinch a 12 point 10mm socket will fit. On a Cherokee I can get them from the bottom with a few extentions.

I bought the sockets yesterday. Now I just hope that I can reach the bolts and make them turn.

Um, I am sure someone on jeepforum.com has pulled on. And there is probably a write up on it.

I geta lot of Cherokee info there, I post only occasionally.

EricM wrote: Um, I am sure someone on jeepforum.com has pulled on. And there is probably a write up on it. I geta lot of Cherokee info there, I post only occasionally.

I've been there a lot this week and, surprisingly, I haven't been coming up with much. They're usually pretty helpful over there.

I've pulled literally dozens of 4.0L. The only time I ever pulled the engine and trans was because I was doing a full power train swap, the grill was off so I pulled the engine, trans and x-fer case as one. Just pull the engine, it's actually an easy pull. The hardest thing is the top bell housing bolts. D'connect the motor mounts and lower the engine to get at them, or have a double swivel joint.

DrBoost wrote: The hardest thing is the top bell housing bolts. D'connect the motor mounts and lower the engine to get at them

Thanks. I don't think I would have thought of that one!

No problem man. I'm glad I could help.

Also - if it helps, the front body work all comes off relatively easily.