Went to drive my scion the other day. It sits not be driven more often since I've been working from home. Car started fine minus a lower idle than usual.
Pressed on the gas pedal and got nothing, not even a tiny blip.
My daughter left the cain light on around 2 weeks ago and I had to jump the battery but until the other day had zero issue.
Wondering if a dead battery and sitting more not being driven could make the sensor clunk out.
Thanks
I think there are a lot of mid-90s Volvo owners with blown air bags who can attest to a pedal sensor failing.
It happens. Not common. How many miles?
It happens. I've seen it, including two in my '01 F-250. In the case of the F-250 they failed at about 130,000 mile intervals. There are other things tha can cause that symptom. If you have a scan tool it's easy to test.
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Thankful it didn't happen while driving! Not sure of exact miles but around 110K
My XJ has eaten 3 of them in the last month. If you replace it, use OEM parts. The aftermarket stuff is sub par.
Edit, I've also had to replace the accelerator pedal in my business partners 07 Tahoe company truck. It had a similar issue to what you are describing.
In reply to APEowner :
Unfortunately I do not have a scan tool and can't drive it to get it read. I was thinking maybe the TPS going bad could cause this as well...
This happened to Datsaniti (G35 pedal). I replaced with a junkyard one.
I just ordered a replacement online from the local toyota dealer. Part was cheaper from Toyota than Autozone. Guy directed me to their website and I saved even more. Good dude!!
Oh and I checked. My mileage is 116,992. Getting up there!
You can try a reset, but that hasn't proven effective for me.
It will happen. With my experience with GMs, it'll happen so fast that would not be able to duplicate the concern. Or if it does set a code it'll set and not clear. Back at the old ambulance co. the old duramax-powered rigs woud set a hard code once. We'd replace the accelerator pedal and it would fix it.
The only car I have had it happen was my x-type. It would go in to limp mode (running but no throttle response). Most systems have duplicate systems working in parallel with in the components that the ecu then compares the signals. If it sees a variation above a acceptable range in the two systems it considers the system broken and completely deactivates the throttle. This is built in for safety since it is a fly by wire system they don't want a malfunction to cause it to go to WOT.
If the TPS glitches, it will shut down as well.
Have you pulled the air intake to make sure nothing has physically jammed the throttle? In the last year, I had one jam with a tiny bit of an air filter label, and one with ultra fine dust from a mine site.
Also, I've seen poor design that allows wires to flex and eventually break at the throttle.
Finally got around to installing my new pedal. Car idles at 1000 and giving it throttle only gets me to 1500. I'm actually getting some throttle response which is better than before but still not good. Any ideas?
Go back to chapter one and scan it for codes. Throwing darts while blind folded is a good party trick, but not an economical way to fix a car.
I'm sure you could have bought a Chinese scan tool for the price of the pedal you probably didn't need. Toyota is paranoid as hell about their electronic throttles since the bad press they got a few years ago, so they will shut stuff down for the simplest reasons.
Read the codes, and get back to us.
I don't think those are plug and play. Most have some sort learning set up.
Scott
Ordered a cheap obd2 reader off amazon to get a better idea of whats going on.
Should be able to fool around with it on wednesday to see what I can see.
Sounds like the throttle body TPS sensor is bad.
Streetwiseguy said:Go back to chapter one and scan it for codes. Throwing darts while blind folded is a good party trick, but not an economical way to fix a car.
The truest statement on the internet!
Yeah, there's all kind of redundant fail safe stuff built into drive by wire setups for precisely the reason one guy mentioned (unintented acceleration recalls). Your scan tool might be able to show you the difference between the accelerator pedal position and the torque demanded/throttle position but not all manufacturers put all that stuff in the standard obd2 protocol.
Just did one on the V. It wasn't catastrophic but toases the car in limp mode as it is dying. Easy job and cheapish part.
So ran the codes and got P0123 and P2135. The one code mentioned the tps so I took off the intake to check the area around the throttle body and saw immediate what my problem was 
Looks like maybe an animal chewed at those wires? There's really nothing there they could have rubbed against. I pulled them out like they are to see the extent of the damage.
Welcome to rodent world
sergio said:Sounds like the throttle body TPS sensor is bad.
Probably missing it's cover sheet.
But yeah, this happened to the Expedition a few years ago when my wife was leaving her sister's place in Chicago. Started and ran just fine, wouldn't respond to the throttle at all. Had it towed to a local dealer (it was still under warranty), and they replaced the throttle body.
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