New caliper, rotors, pads etc., stainless braided lines with new AN-4 fittings. Assembled but leaked a bit. Tightened up the AN-4, now it leaks only when I leave the E Brake on overnight, just a few drops, but a leak is a leak. I tried to loosen the AN-4 going into the caliper to see if I rolled up a burr or some schmegma on the threads, could not even budge it. Tight!
I'm afraid if I yaw on it any more something will split. Thoughts?
Dan
why would the ebrake make it leak?
What caliper is it?
Off the top of my head I know of three common caliper brake line attachment modes
Inverted flare
bubble flare
and straight thread with a crush washer
Mixing any of those up, even if they thread in will cause a leak. I would need to see a pic of the seat inside the threads of the caliper to be sure.
The race part house i used to use for caliper anytime I purchased a caliper or fittings they would drop in a slip of paper saying to use Loctite 609 on the threads to avoid leaks.
It's a bubble flare.
Someone suggested using pipe tape but "the yellow type, it's better". Never heard of yellow and never thought pipe tape could be used on brakes.
The yellow tape is for gas lines. It isn't inherently better than other pipe tapes, just colored so it can be verified that it was installed.
I wouldn't use pipe tape, but I don't use it for anything. You could use an anaerobic sealer like loctite 567.
Is it leaking from the AN flare union or the bubble flare part? THESE can be used to fix a damaged seat or flare but they aren't cheap.
The first step is to pull the fitting apart and see why it's leaking. If a flare fitting of any type is in good shape then tape or sealer isn't needed. You also shouldn't have to tighten the heck out of it either. The one you have that's leaking has a problem of some sort and something will need to be replaced to fix it.
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