Why would I want this bi (twin) turbo 2.7 v6, 6 speed? 200k, no visible rust. Runs good, leather interior, and lotsa Euro panache whatever that means. All for $1900. I mean my heart has always been with vans of all sizes and configurations. How and why would I starting wanting a car such as this? Keep letting the want turn to lust or run away fast?
How many service records does it have?
Awaiting the hives answer, ive been interested in these motors but have heard hit and miss experiences
The engines aren't the expensive part of the car.
At least the bodies never rust. And a 6 speed means you don't get the Curse of the 5HP19.
Wifey bought that exact car new (except auto transmission). Drove it for just over 100k blissfully trouble-free miles. When we sold it, it was making a metallic singing noise under load, which I attributed to the turbos. Also, there was a fair amount of oil in the intercooler plumbing. As mentioned, the extent of the service history is the key here. Repairs can get expensive.
I have been watching Craig's list for the proper deal to come along on one since my jag was totaled. I am looking for am A6 S Line. Originally I was looking at 4.2 cars up to 2004 due to the 4.2 getting a redesign in 05. But the 2.7 seems to be an all around better day to day motor. What I have not explored is there easy hp gains on the 2.7t. That will not blow it up.
I also have been looking at the A8. They seem to be easier to find with lower millage at the same or less money. From what I have read they are just a bigger a6 but weight I about the same so you really don't take a performance hit versus a A6 with the 4.2. The A8 comes with virtually every option standard where as A6s had a range of options available.
1988RedT2 wrote: Also, there was a fair amount of oil in the intercooler plumbing.
That's kinda normal. On any VAG product, it is SOP where I work to put an oil drain under the plumbing before disconnecting a hose. The intercooler seems to work as a catchcan.
I'm exaggerating. I'm the only person who does anything on VWAG product where I work, so that is strictly a me-thing. But still, when the company policy is spotless workspace, and VWAG have a tendency to put the main plumbing disconnect at the lowest point in the system, one would tend to get an oil drain ready to collect the mess that experience says is about to ensue.
I've only ever collected maybe half a pint at the MOST out of a VWAG product. My intercooler record was a little over two quarts, from a GN that did eat a turbo. That was downright comical.
Timing belts are a thing to stay on top of. They want to be done every 70K miles. At 200,000 if the turbos haven't been replaced that are likely getting close. Repairs are fairly expensive but the drivetrain is very robust. Factory power is modest but an APR reflash of the ECU yields an extra 70 hp/100tq so that's the cheapest $ to hp ratio of all time. KO4 turbos and bigger injectors can get you north of 400 hp. The pixels in the display almost certainly are shot. Usual whining about Audi control arm bushings, yada, yada.
KyAllroad wrote: Timing belts are a thing to stay on top of. They want to be done every 70K miles.
WITH a water pump. 100% of the jumped-time issues that I've seen with Audi V6s were because the water pump bearings failed. Yes, the water pump is expensive. It is, however, vastly more expensive if you don't replace it.
I was hoping at this point to find some more positive recommendations but maybe that has yet to happen? I was thinking this kind of car would provide quite a bit more reliability, build quality, and performance at this age than say certain early 90s factory turbo Mopars.
In reply to drainoil:
I'm a little surprised, too. Sounds like a lot of car for the money.
Of course, it will be an expensive car to "run" but with a little luck you let others take an enormous depreciation hit and drive a pretty fine car. Maybe the market has discounted high maintenance costs too much.
Seems like theres cheap stuff on rock auto. And i dont mean bottom barrel brands either...i always heard a tune wakes these up but also spits out seals from the pressure. Anyone have thoughts on this? Maybe a better crank case evacuation route would help?
drainoil wrote: I was hoping at this point to find some more positive recommendations but maybe that has yet to happen? I was thinking this kind of car would provide quite a bit more reliability, build quality, and performance at this age than say certain early 90s factory turbo Mopars.
It may only be $1900 now, but it was $45,000 brand new and will still require the upkeep that a $45k twin turbo German sport sedan needs. They are very nice and fast cars but there is a lot to potentially go wrong, especially if the car doesn't come with a detailed service history.
If you're not capable and willing to do the work yourself, run away. Otherwise, I think it's a reasonable price, especially if there's a receipt for replacement turbos (probably to the tune of few thousand, the engine has to come out). I do like Audis though, especially with the multi-link front suspension on the C5 / B5 / B6 chassis (...Which is $500 or so for a complete set of control arm bushings, which it probably needs, unless there's a receipt). The 6 speed is unusual (I hesitate to say rare, but they're definitely not common), and is quite stout. It's the go to gearbox for tuned Audis from the Ur-Quattro to the B6 chassis.
drainoil wrote: Why would I want this bi (twin) turbo 2.7 v6, 6 speed? 200k
No idea. 
Expensive upkeep, uninspiring at best to drive (granted I've only driven auto examples I believe), boring appearances...
drainoil wrote: I was hoping at this point to find some more positive recommendations but maybe that has yet to happen? I was thinking this kind of car would provide quite a bit more reliability, build quality, and performance at this age than say certain early 90s factory turbo Mopars.
Oh, it probably would. But then I am somewhat biased because I haven't seen an EEK on the road in maybe 15 years so automatically the Audi gets the nod because no matter what goes wrong with it, it's worth fixing because it won't rust out from under you. Audi may be somewhat overenthusiastic with electronics controls but they have rust prevention NAILED. Fixing electronics is easy compared to battling rust.
I wouldn't be afraid of it. The engine WILL drool a lot of oil. All 2.7ts do. It's just a fact of life. The intercooler plumbing will be full of oil too, and this may not be "right" but they will go a very very long time like that so who cares. Keep up on the spark plug changes, maybe the coils and Power Output Stages will live longer, but if they do fail then they're not that bad to change, just a little pricey. (Not OMGWTF pricey but still not blister-pack HEI module at Walmart cheap)
As mentioned upthread, it is a premium German car and just because they have depreciated significantly doesn't mean the parts are cheaper. However, when all is correct, you are still getting to drive a premium German car at a severe discount. Even if you're having to sink $4-5k per year into it, it's still cheaper than a new Kia and a significantly better driving experience.
If its challenge priced, run it into the ground and then part it out to try regain your money. Do minor maintenance only. My 00 A6 BiTurbo 6mt was tons of fun but the repair cost, as well as the assumed future repair cost made me ditch it. Of course i had a $10k loan on it and it was 10 years old.
KyAllroad wrote: Timing belts are a thing to stay on top of. They want to be done every 70K miles. At 200,000 if the turbos haven't been replaced that are likely getting close. Repairs are fairly expensive but the drivetrain is very robust. Factory power is modest but an APR reflash of the ECU yields an extra 70 hp/100tq so that's the cheapest $ to hp ratio of all time. KO4 turbos and bigger injectors can get you north of 400 hp. The pixels in the display almost certainly are shot. Usual whining about Audi control arm bushings, yada, yada.
Those are incredible power gains!
As for the boring part, at one point I guess I didn't really see these cars as exciting in appearance, but the AWD, although not needed (by my standards) but certainly welcome in our crappy Midwest winters, along with forced induction and a manual rower, would add some much needed interest/fun to my fairly short daily commutes.
This coming from a guy who actually once enjoyed dd driving a mostly stock but well worn early 90s Honda 4 cyl, 5 spd hatchback.
As far as the actual car that sparked my inquiry here is concerned, the seller has now dropped the price in his/her ad to $1500, and so far I haven't received a response after both calling and texting.
I have been advised that age is alot less important than mileage. Get the car with the lowest mileage you can afford. Next is service records.
I just received a reply from the # that was listed as the seller's contact in the ad. It said "No Audi. Craigslist has wrong number".
Change of heart by seller? False or fake ad to begin with? The pics in the ad looked authentic and showing the car with Mn plates but tabs were expired by one year.
Local Ford Dealer has an "off lot" section where they put the older cars. Just found a 2008 Audi A4 S-Line sitting there for $1800!
Quite a bit of rust and really poorly matched body work (not the right colour!). I am guessing it has huge mileage. As much as I avoid A4's I am tempted to go take a better look.
As for the 2001 you are looking at, too bad on the # problem - I would wave $1000 under their nose and see if they take it.
drainoil wrote:KyAllroad wrote: Timing belts are a thing to stay on top of. They want to be done every 70K miles. At 200,000 if the turbos haven't been replaced that are likely getting close. Repairs are fairly expensive but the drivetrain is very robust. Factory power is modest but an APR reflash of the ECU yields an extra 70 hp/100tq so that's the cheapest $ to hp ratio of all time. KO4 turbos and bigger injectors can get you north of 400 hp. The pixels in the display almost certainly are shot. Usual whining about Audi control arm bushings, yada, yada.Those are incredible power gains! As for the boring part, at one point I guess I didn't really see these cars as exciting in appearance, but the AWD, although not needed (by my standards) but certainly welcome in our crappy Midwest winters, along with forced induction and a manual rower, would add some much needed interest/fun to my fairly short daily commutes. This coming from a guy who actually once enjoyed dd driving a mostly stock but well worn early 90s Honda 4 cyl, 5 spd hatchback. As far as the actual car that sparked my inquiry here is concerned, the seller has now dropped the price in his/her ad to $1500, and so far I haven't received a response after both calling and texting.
Yeah, the increase in power spoiled me, when I try to get anything out of the horrible little lump living between the fenders of my NA Miata it's a case of "oh you did all that work? here's 5 hp..."
Here's an A6 in Ohio that seems to have all the new parts but needs reassembly.
In reply to KyAllroad:
Dam with those power gains I think I will re focus my search for an 04 a6 S line 2.7tt. I had no idea it was that easy.
You can make a ton of power on that motor with a $500 chip/reflash, but it's somewhat questionable how long the K03s will last at that boost level, especially if they've done 200K already. K04s (or, even better, the custom Garrett housings that ATP sells so that you can bolt up a pair of 2560s) will stand up a lot better, but they're not cheap and it's a fair bit of work to get them installed.
Can you compromise and get to say 350 hp matching the 4.2 of that year and keep some semblance of reliability?
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