Basic alignment settings for an MK1 VW

I know this is a matter of opinion, but I am looking for a starting point.

This car is now VERY stiff (for an MK1). Chassis reinforced, stiff springs, coilovers, big anti-sway bars, and wide track and contact patch.

Ride height is slightly lower than level a-arms. I've got plenty of adjustability.

Any opinions on a good starting point for basic autocross alignment settings? I'm trying to set it up for a good driver to be able to push it hard at the Challenge.

I'm not a good enough driver to be able to dial it in well based on the feel of it's handling- I've got mal-adjusted butt-o-meter.

SVreX wrote: I know this is a matter of opinion, but I am looking for a starting point. This car is now VERY stiff (for an MK1). Chassis reinforced, stiff springs, coilovers, big anti-sway bars, and wide track and contact patch. Ride height is slightly lower than level a-arms. I've got plenty of adjustability. Any opinions on a good starting point for basic autocross alignment settings? I'm trying to set it up for a good driver to be able to push it hard at the Challenge. I'm not a good enough driver to be able to dial it in well based on the feel of it's handling- I've got mal-adjusted butt-o-meter.

In reply to SVreX:

Alright, I am not sure if I am technically worthy of giving you a response, since I really don't know what I am talking about, BUT.... I was JUST READING about suspension for my very own MK1, who is also stiffer then your average MK1.

What I was going to do was take the advice from Greg Raven's Watercooled VW Performance Handbook (and give you the advice to just buy this book!!!) and start with giving your front suspension a good basic race alignment of about 1/8" of toe-out and -2.5 degrees of camber.

This is actually his "3rd stage" of suspension settings, with stage 1 being stock, stage 2 being for "hot street rods" and stage 3 being for race. If you are would prefer to try something not quite so extreme at first, then maybe the settings for stage 2: 1/16" toe and -1 degree of camber.

Hope this helps!!!

1/8" toe and 2.5 deg camber sounds pretty good.

My standard rabbit street alignment was always 1/16" toe out and 1.5 degrees negative, so Anja's book settings sounds a bit more aggressive but not out of line.

Those were the numbers I had in mind, just wanted to hear someone else say it!

Raven's book is on my list, but I don't have it yet.

I DO however have Per's book! It's a little tame for this particular application.

I run just over 2.5 deg camber and a tick over 1/8" toe out in front on my '83 GTI. That much camber requires crash bolts, but are well worth it, even on a challenge budget. It's not real pleasant on the street, but that's not the point, now, is it?

My street/autocross car is 1/8 toe and -1.5 camber, it is good for a street car; when it was a dedicated track car it was a little less toe and a little less camber. Dont remember the exact numbers but it was probably close to what y'all are talking about. MKI chassis are nearly my favorite car to autocross.

SVreX wrote: Those were the numbers I had in mind, just wanted to hear someone else say it! Raven's book is on my list, but I don't have it yet. I DO however have Per's book! It's a little tame for this particular application.

I haven't read Per's book yet, but it is on my list also. I haven't come across a question that Raven hasn't been able to answer yet for me.... I think that it is an absolute MUST!!

Also... please do get back to me and let me know how this feels at the Challenge. :-) I am still quite a few steps away from race alignment time, but it is never too early to get excited :-)

Like I said, come on down and drive it yourself!

SVreX wrote: Like I said, come on down and drive it yourself!

Oh, I will be there next year and I will definitely take you up on that offer... and you can try out Gaia :-) This should be fun...........!!!!

Didn't make the Challenge this year, but the car is done. I've had him out for the first few test rides, and decided he was too stiff. 500/400 lb springs plus big bars was too much- it was like not having suspension at all. I will be removing the front bar and trying to depend completely on the springs. If that doesn't feel right, I will soften the springs.

First I have to make some adjustments to the struts to have more control over the camber, and I realized I had some pretty bad binding going on (which I have repaired).

Once I dial in the suspension, I will probably just go ahead and add a turbo. By the time you get behind the wheel, it might be a little different.