In reply to 03Panther :
I didn't see the truck. He said it wasn't ready to sell. (I think that meant crappy). I know it had the 5.7L 3V.
He fought with me about the LS, and got mad at me. I decided he wasn't a seller I wanted to deal with.
In reply to 03Panther :
I didn't see the truck. He said it wasn't ready to sell. (I think that meant crappy). I know it had the 5.7L 3V.
He fought with me about the LS, and got mad at me. I decided he wasn't a seller I wanted to deal with.
SV reX said:In reply to 03Panther :
I didn't see the truck. He said it wasn't ready to sell. (I think that meant crappy). I know it had the 5.7L 3V.
He fought with me about the LS, and got mad at me. I decided he wasn't a seller I wanted to deal with.
That'd be perfect for me... I could low ball him with no guilty conscience!
what is a 5.7 3V? I'm guessing a typo in there ?
Ad does not mention total miles, so I imagine they are right high. I think the price is high for condition, but with trucks as stupid as they are....
05 Yukon xl / suburban for $2250 In Jax.
Id be interested after a couple months of income, if this job works out. Seems like a good deal, but that low asking these days scares me. Might be worth a call, for ya.
https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/jacksonville-2005-gmc-yukon-xl/7524394220.html
03Panther said:Ad does not mention total miles, so I imagine they are right high. I think the price is high for condition, but with trucks as stupid as they are....
Man I HATE that.
I think I have to call him...
Scotty Con Queso said:Yeah sorry about not realizing you are looking for a donor. Get a van, man.
Go north for the best deal. You can buy rotted out vans for cheap here same with Tahoes, suburban, Silverados, etc.
A reverse fly and drive would be a hoot.
You have vehicle inspections, no? Any rotted out hulk of a work vehicle is worth $bank here where all that matters is passing emissions. Things like mid 00s F150s you can't lift by the frame because they are see through are still worth $5k+.
SV reX said:Man I HATE that.
I think I have to call him...
Now that's funny!
unless it's shows worse in person, it don't look too bad; but it probably shows ALOT worse in person!
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In reply to SV reX :
Focusing on an LS equipped donor car, I would not look for a particular example. I would spend a lot of time looking for the right donor.
Never take a commercial vehicle. Those are bought and sold without emotion. Trucks, vans, the most expensive items, ( engines and transmissions) are its death warrant. They are used until used up.
Soccer Moms on the other hand are accessories to those people. Shiny and new. They are sold when mom is embarrassed to be seen or out of style like a dress. Wear isn't the factor.
Bad drivers will dent and damage the appearance until they are no longer even taken to the car wash and rust begins to start.
Up here in the rust belt that starts at about 10 years. Dents and rust devalue the vehicle until the dealership won't give much for it in a trade in.
The more expensive the vehicle the quicker it depreciates and the better the mechanicals will be relative to the price paid.
That plus the Caddy dealership charges more than the Chevy dealership for an Oil Change because he can, even though they are the same mechanically.
Checking them over is a 3 minute test. Open the oil cap and check how clean it is. Heavy deposits walk away. Pull the dip stick and look at the oil itself. 2 quarts low and black? Walk away.
Finally pull the ATF Dipstick if it's nice and red instead of brown or worse yellow. You might have a keeper. The hidden gem we all look for.
Wow. So much bad info, mixed in with some correct. All said with the exact same conviction, and said as if that are absolutes.
In reply to 03Panther :
Please help me and point out bad information.
My whole life I've taken advantage of how some of the higher priced vehicles depreciate so quickly leaving solid mechanicals behind.
If I've been wrong somehow I'd like to understand why. Mind you a lot of those buyers are my neighbors and I see it all the time.
Right now my Son-in- law is looking for a cheap car for his 16 year old daughter to go to college with. ( she starts tomorrow) instead of looking to solve her transportation needs for the next couple of decades. He's looking for the cheapest running vehicle he can find.
Hint; over the next 2 decades those will cost far more than buying new.
The trick is not to shop for low initial price but for value.
frenchyd said:The trick is not to shop for low initial price but for value.
That sentence is completely correct, applicable, and good advise.
Probably (maybe?) what you meant all along. But since it is not what you said... no I doubt I can help you understand what others write, or how to actually say what you mean.
For one thing, I never said you've been wrong your whole life.
For another, if you read Paul's post, and understood it, and cared what he was looking for, you would know that nothing you wrote applies to a guy in the south east, looking for a truck to use for a bit, and then swap later.
Another "not what your looking for"
wont help for the interim truck, but I ain't far from it. Could hold it here till needed.
I assume it's LS.
His truck died, he was looking for a temporary daily driver and did not mention it needed to be a truck. His primary search was for a 6.0 liter LS etc.
The Cadillac Escalade meets that requirement and further fits my technique of buying solid mechanicals from upscale vehicles that depreciate quickly. Leaving good value behind.
It is my experience that the best bargains are found in larger metro areas. People who just want the old one gone. Further those up in the rust belt with rust damage on higher end vehicles tend to be least expensive of them all.
Perhaps even enough to do a fly and drive!
I am working at an upscale marque dealership (BMW). They have 2 kinds of customers... upscale wealthy people, and drug dealing "thugs".
I like the suggestion to look to upscale marques for value. But there is not way it is a hard and fast rule.
Drive through any inner city poor neighborhood and count how many crapped out Cadillacs you see. I guarantee there are dozens, and most of them are wearing rented wheels that are worth twice what the car is worth. I can guarantee they are high mileage vehicles with poor service records.
I get the suggestion. But I don't get the arguing. Please stop.
The reason I said "best vehicle" is that I was looking for specific suggestions for year, make, and model for vehicles that would make a good donor candidate for the specific vehicle I am considering.
Usually we take what we can find in a donor vehicle, and do what we need to to make it work. Price and availability are the primary considerations.
In THIS situation, I am recognizing an opportunity to look for a particular vehicle that meets the needs well. I don't have to look for only what is available, or only what is cheap. I can spend time looking for a unicorn if I need to, and justify spending more if necessary (because it may be used as a driver for a while before the swap).
frenchyd said:In reply to SV reX :
Focusing on an LS equipped donor car, I would not look for a particular example. I would spend a lot of time looking for the right donor.
Never take a commercial vehicle. Those are bought and sold without emotion. Trucks, vans, the most expensive items, ( engines and transmissions) are its death warrant. They are used until used up.
Soccer Moms on the other hand are accessories to those people. Shiny and new. They are sold when mom is embarrassed to be seen or out of style like a dress. Wear isn't the factor.
Please stop polluting our forum with misinformation. The average consumer takes way less care of their vehicle than the typical commercial fleet vehicle, which usually have strict maintenance schedules since downtime costs money. Many corporate and govt fleets have specific age and mileage limits until they are auctioned off. And when it comes to LS donors specifically, the 2500+ vans/pickups are perfect because of the stronger sought-after 4l80E trans, which are usually commercial and work vehicles. The typical 'soccer mom' Tahoe with an aluminum 5.3 and box-o'-neutrals 4l60e is not the best donor for a high-power LS swap.
For those reading this in the future: frenchyd has never LS swapped anything, so please disregard all advice from them.
SV reX said:What transmission is typically onboard an Escalade?
I know the engine is usually a 6.0L. Is the transmission usually a 4l80E?
4l60e thru 2006, 6.2 + 6l80e after that
Did the non-dod/afm 6.2 from the Escalade/Yukon come with a 4L80? Or did all of those only came with the 6L80? And how swappable is the 6L80?
It depends, some got the 4L65e, which from what I can gather is slightly better than the 4L60e. A 4L80e would be a better choice.
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In reply to maschinenbau :
You obviously failed to read my suggestion. The Cadillac Escalade which does have the 6.0 liter & 4l80 E. Plus it can be bought cheaper than commercial vehicles. Commercial Leases seldom last long enough to get the price down to the point where you can get a cheaper soccer Moms former beat up rust bucket.
As far as Commercial trucks? They are used much harder than a Soccer mom drives. I really should stop saying soccer moms because they are also owned by upscale ladies, realitors, and other light uses.
I did also mention to check the oils of the engine and transmission the parts that the OP is focused on.
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