So, I want to improve the cornering in as far as keeping it flatter in corners. I fancy my truck (or at least my intentions and driving style) as a mix between a prerunner and a boulevard cruiser.
Im awaiting installation (need a compressor) of Bilstein shocks f&r and a leveling kit. So what should be my next move? I’d rather not stiffen up the rear suspension per se. Would a heavier REAR anti-sway bar help? I’m thinking yes and it’ll also hopefully help with understeer.
(yes, there’s better handling vehicles out there but I’m working with what I have and I really enjoy driving my truck. I drive 5 days per week late at night on empty, very smooth, curvy roads and keep it generally 10mph over the limit at most and I do enjoy flying down power line dirt roads from time to time)
dj06482
UltraDork
5/11/19 10:13 p.m.
Hotchkiss front and rear sway bars transformed my '94 Chevy K1500. I'd see if they make anything for your truck.
In reply to dj06482 :
I’ve *heard* that sway bars from a GMT800 (same line) Suburban can be used. I’d like to know if 2500 rear bars are adaptable. A JY option would be nice. Rather not shell out the money for Hotchkiss bars even though they appear to be a quality product.
I would avoid using a rear sway bar if possible, especially if you have an open diff in the rear. This will be even more important if you drive off pavement. Leaf springs have a quite a bit of roll resistance already due to friction and all the off axis rotation in the bushings and shackles.
I would start off by getting a really stiff front sway bar and getting as much camber out of the front as you can. On paper, increasing front weight transfer bias sounds like it will increase undeesteer, but it really just works out. The increased steering responsiveness is also really nice. Also a bit of toe out on the front will boost turn in responsiveness.
Beyond that you would really need stiffer springs if that still didn't corner flat enough for you. Keep in mind that anything you do to raise your truck will be directly adverse to cornering ability.
Suspension that doesn't move, isn't working.
I had my Tacoma cornering at about 1G, stock ride height until I broke bolts for the front anti-rollbar mount.
Bilstein HD shocks, big front anti-rollbar, and Roadmaster active suspension added to rear leafsprings.
It was decently balanced with that setup.
Thanks for reminding me of this... now want to add the roadmaster active suspension to my list of remaining upgrades for the Frontier...really like how it works without tying the two sides together like an anti-rollbar does, much smoother ride with some the handling benefits of an anti-rollbar.
Where are the stats on the Hill climb blazer with the epic picture bringing up the front tire into a corner?
Big front bar. Leave the rear alone/remove it.
z31maniac said:
Where are the stats on the Hill climb blazer with the epic picture bringing up the front tire into a corner?
I think the stats are:
tube chassis
blazer body
Another thing, this would actually be a really good application for longitudinal z-bar springs. You'd better be good at fabricating stuff though because you can't buy any.
I can provide pictures later when I'm on my computer but in short this system works a little bit like a sway bar. But in reverse. And the bars run fore and aft instead of side to side. With this system you could run as much roll stiffness as you would ever want and still have good suspension articulation, unlike traditional swaybars. And a truck is basically an ideal candidate for fitting these because they have tons of room underneath for packaging.
ProDarwin said:
Big front bar. Leave the rear alone/remove it.
z31maniac said:
Where are the stats on the Hill climb blazer with the epic picture bringing up the front tire into a corner?
I think the stats are:
tube chassis
blazer body
Dang really? I didn't realize it was a tube chassis "car."
I don't know how many of the parts swap over from 2500 chassis to 1500 chassis but I'm always amazed by how flat and tight my 04 Suburban 2500 handles. The front sway bar looks like it weighs about 100 lbs! Beefy.
z31maniac said:
ProDarwin said:
Big front bar. Leave the rear alone/remove it.
z31maniac said:
Where are the stats on the Hill climb blazer with the epic picture bringing up the front tire into a corner?
I think the stats are:
tube chassis
blazer body
Dang really? I didn't realize it was a tube chassis "car."
There is a thread on it here. The owner posted in it, his name is Butch King. The post was not super clear... it may be an S10 frame with a custom tubular front and rear section.
Vracer111 said:
I had my Tacoma cornering at about 1G, stock ride height until I broke bolts for the front anti-rollbar mount.
Bilstein HD shocks, big front anti-rollbar, and Roadmaster active suspension added to rear leafsprings.
Thanks for reminding me of this... now want to add the roadmaster active suspension to my list of remaining upgrades for the Frontier...really like how it works without tying the two sides together like an anti-rollbar does, much smoother ride with some the handling benefits of an anti-rollbar.
Geez, I’ve already been idly pondering the handling ability of T/A-swapped Frontiers and Pathfinders... and now I have to go read this. Fortunately I’m in no position to go acting on these impulses.
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
I’ve never been one to buy something that’s a known commodity. Rather, I’m more the type to see what can be done with something engineers never contemplated ie: a good-handling, maybe slightly lifted, 4x4 pickup.
ProDarwin said:
Big front bar. Leave the rear alone/remove it.
z31maniac said:
Where are the stats on the Hill climb blazer with the epic picture bringing up the front tire into a corner?
I think the stats are:
tube chassis
blazer body
Pretty sure it was stock frame rails, but the rear was custom truck arms and I don't think any of the stock front suspension was left either. Mr. Butch King that built that rig was around here for a while but I don't think he stuck around.
Assuming you mean this picture.
The local LKQs in my area are chock full of Suburbans and Tahoes. It would probably cost you $20 or so to get a swaybar and fit it up if you've got them near you.
Lower it instead of lifting the front,less weight transfer via lower CG = flatter cornering.
Daylan C said:
ProDarwin said:
Big front bar. Leave the rear alone/remove it.
z31maniac said:
Where are the stats on the Hill climb blazer with the epic picture bringing up the front tire into a corner?
I think the stats are:
tube chassis
blazer body
Pretty sure it was stock frame rails, but the rear was custom truck arms and I don't think any of the stock front suspension was left either. Mr. Butch King that built that rig was around here for a while but I don't think he stuck around.
Assuming you mean this picture.
Yep. I love that!
Goes back to my desire to build an S-10 or S-10 Blazer with a mid-engine V8. Unfortunately I don't have those kind of skills.
imgon
HalfDork
5/17/19 8:59 p.m.
I run time trials with Butch. The S10 was retired (not willingly) and he now runs a pick up on a tube frame. Both vehicles were/are beasts and he drives the E36M3 out of them. Amazing to watch. He does a lot of hill climb events and I would love to watch/listen to him charge up a course, the engine sounds awesome at full song.
In reply to imgon :
Didn't the Jimmy get wrecked, fixed-ish, then sold? Most of what I know of the truck's history are from googling and what he said here in reply to my thread asking about it here when I was building a Bravada.
imgon said:
I run time trials with Butch. The S10 was retired (not willingly) and he now runs a pick up on a tube frame. Both vehicles were/are beasts and he drives the E36M3 out of them. Amazing to watch. He does a lot of hill climb events and I would love to watch/listen to him charge up a course, the engine sounds awesome at full song.
There is an old in "car" video of him doing a Hill climb in that beast.
Knurled. said:
Suspension that doesn't move, isn't working.
But it is predictable.
I disagree on no rear bars. I added one to my old ranger and it greatly helped in cornering, crappy stock front bar in place FYI.
I know on my Avalanche and Suburban, both gmt900’s, that the stock bar is 36mm up front. Aftermarket makes 38’s.
As I mentioned here is some more info about z-bars.
Here is how Packard implimented it:
In reply to Ranger50 :
I think the 1500’s-3500’s are all 36mm. I’m so cheap I don’t want to spring for a good 38mm bar 
