Robbie
PowerDork
5/10/18 3:06 p.m.
how about an aluminum bodied, supercharged v8, RWD sedan with plenty of style and LOTS of low hanging weight reduction fruit?
12's should be easy. (13.4 at 106 stock)
https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/d/2004-jaguar-xjr-no-title/6584873573.html
http://www.motortrend.com/cars/jaguar/xj-series/2004/2004-jaguar-xjr-3/
Asking under your $3k budget, might be able to negotiate down to challenge budget.
In reply to Robbie :
I like this idea. This is more of what I am thinking about. I don't want to do an engine swap. That's not part of the vision for this project.
I even found this one for $550 in my area. I gotta find out what is wrong with it.
A $550 Dollar XJR
Foxbody mustang. They were practically built for this. Buy an ugly one and go to town. You could LS swap it, but aftermarket aluminum heads on a 302 with nitrous is enough to get you where you want to go.
If you don’t want to spring for good heads, the explorer stuff works in a pinch.
edit: just reread your post. I’m going with explorer top end and a nitrous kit on the fox with gears, tires and chassis braces. Low 12s/ high 11s should be no issue
I’d buy my gs430 back from east side tim and strip all the luxury out — bet I could get it below 3000 lbs! That alone would get it close to 13 flat. Some nitrous and maybe I’d be hunting 11s??
NOHOME
UltimaDork
5/10/18 7:47 p.m.
Fox body with LSx
The Fox body is too light to ignore and the LS is just to cheap to make power as long as you can stay away from needing to row your own gears.
Pete
An $800 stock but interior stripped Lincoln Mark 8 will run faster than that U haul truck, right out of the box.
14.9 seconds in $2016. NOS would make it faster
Buy the Stampie Q45.
RyanW
New Reader
5/10/18 8:57 p.m.
If your goal is only 12-13 seconds, for sure a 1g awd DSM. Extremely reliable at that power level, , don't listen to others. If you get an auto, even more so. My first 1g went 13.6 with $800 invested including car. Stock exhaust, literally stock everything. You won't have reliability issues until mid 11s IMO. The first time broke anything at the track in about 400 passes was when the car was trapping 136mph.
No swaps needed. No NOSs. Get 4 snow tires for your sticky tires. A light turbo upgrade could help.
Find the cheapest FB RX-7 you can. Nowadays this is about $2000 for a runner.
Port the hell out of it, add a Holley setup and a 300-500hp shot of nitrous, run 10s or so.
In reply to Knurled. :
I freaking LOVE a built rotary!
Would a 4.3 S10 take enough squeeze to get you to your ET goal? (I honestly don't know...but you said no engine swaps and an S truck came to mind).
Hmmm. Maybe a Turboford.
Everything Else I would pick would probably be V8, rear drive domestic stuff (many already mentioned previously).
You *might* get lucky and find a Mustang II or Maverick and get it done.
A Nova would blow the budget unless you found a rough one of the last RWD models (which still might blow the budget).
Full size taxicop cars like Crown Vics and Caprices from the pushrod days come to mind. Definitely can be found cheap enough...but there would have to be some serious weight reduction and lots of N2O. I know the Crown Vic 5.0s had low compression (but also cast pistons).
Anything that came with a 1uz, strip it down and spray it.
What numbers can a Volvo 700 Series Turbo achieve with stupid boost levels?
I have used the green Maverick 300 I6 with the dump truck turbo running 10’s as my measuring stick.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-1108-1971-ford-maverick/
Cooter
HalfDork
5/13/18 1:07 a.m.
FWD turbo MoPars are still dirt cheap. Boost to taste.
In reply to B13Birk : Top Gear the British car show has already done what I’d do. They took a cheap £250 ( that’s a little over $400. US ) beat up XJS V12 and gutted it. Then put a simple 150 hp NOS kit on it and took on the best cars they could get including a new Porsche Turbo a new Corvette and a new Ferrari ( watch it on U tube )
and beat them all In a 1/4 mile drag race.
In reply to frenchyd :
Ill have to track down that episode that's awesome!
In reply to ClemSparks : cast pistons really aren’t an issue. What is the issue is ring end gaps.
The rings expand until they butt together and then start shoving up on the ring lands Double the end gaps and even cast pistons can stay together.
Oh, if you make silly mistakes and get the engine too lean a cast piston will give up a few moments sooner than a forged piston will but even a forged piston with stock or too tight end gaps will pop a ring land off
In reply to ebonyandivory :
high 13s is pretty doable with bolts ons and traction, but you're replacing the turbo, exhaust and cam to get there. any faster than that would take fueling, tuning, drivetrain and traction upgrades to get there. The transmission and rear end would be questionable at ~300+wtq and hard launches.
stylngle2003 said:
In reply to ebonyandivory :
high 13s is pretty doable with bolts ons and traction, but you're replacing the turbo, exhaust and cam to get there. any faster than that would take fueling, tuning, drivetrain and traction upgrades to get there. The transmission and rear end would be questionable at ~300+wtq and hard launches.
IThat is the same rear end used in 427 Ford Cobras so it will take plenty of power. The Transmission in a JaguarV12 is the heavy duty version of the GM turbo 400 used in Ambulances and tow trucks so it will handle whatever you power you make. You can get a Jaguar XJS down under 3000 pounds maybe as low as 2700 completely stripped out like they did on the video.
I don’t know the quarter mile times of a Turbo Porsche, Ferrari, or new Corvette but I suspect it’s comfortably under 13 seconds. And the £250 Jag beat them all
It's getting harder to find cheap running foxbody but that's the answer. Guys are running mid 11s with chassis work and the explorer 302 NA. There's a reason there immensely popular at dragstrips, the suspension set up thrives. My fully gutted 2.3t swapped 88 weighed 2700ish pounds. The exact number escapes me but that was gutted doors, hood stripped too the skin and no bumpers under the covers.
I know it is not particularly interesting to some people, but a 3rd or 4th Gen Camaro is the way to go. They are everywhere. They are cheap. Get a V8. Spray it and have fun.
There was one at the challenge that the Wojtkowiaks brought that was gutted and stock engine with N2O that went 12s.
Edit: I found a picture of the car
Such a cool car!
In reply to TheV8Kid :
Out of couriosity why spray when you can blow? A pair of Chinese turbo’s with wastegates will set you back less than $300. The power is always there when you lean on them and you never have to refill a NOS tank?
frenchyd said:
In reply to TheV8Kid :
Out of couriosity why spray when you can blow? A pair of Chinese turbo’s with wastegates skill set you back less than $300. The power is always there when you lean on them and you never have to refill a NOS tank?
that's why i've never been a fan of nitrous. If you plan on doing something with an LS check out the Sloppy Mechanic wiki page for some great, low budget turbo info
frenchyd said:
In reply to TheV8Kid :
Out of couriosity why spray when you can blow? A pair of Chinese turbo’s with wastegates skill set you back less than $300. The power is always there when you lean on them and you never have to refill a NOS tank?
Because the turbochargers themselves are the cheapest and easiest part of the equation. Any moron can bag a pair of chinese t3 knockoffs for $250. The supporting cast is where the money is, whether you’re going cheap or not. Then have a ball plumbing anything under the hood of a 4th gen let alone enough piping for twins. Once that’s done, then you get to upgrade your fuel pump, injectors, and pray that you or your guy is good enough to tune the pcm without turning your pistons into shrapnel.
that’s why, for a strictly budget vehicle, nitrous is easier and cheaper than turbocharging.
As for the sloppy guy, i’ll just say i’d rather teach myself boost tuning than download someone else’s tune file from the interwebs
In reply to Patrick : there are modest cost ways to install and plumb everything. If you’re a check writer rather than a mechanic nothing is cheap but the tuning on most cars is the hard part, not the cost of the install.
With nitrous you’ve got an extremely short time before the bottle needs a refill. It’s worthless in a roadrace. You can’t carry enough to last the race.
Drag racing? OK but how many passes before another bottle is called for? And what is the cost of those bottles and refills.
In any case a turbo is long term fun NOS is flash in the pan fun