Buying a car that's got a salvaged title

I came across an 05 350z track version on one of the car sites--relatively low mileage--that looked nice, priced low, but referenced a salvaged title due to some "light " front end damage. Obviously, a car like this would have to be inspected by a professional to determine what kind of structural condition it was in, but has anyone had good luck buying a car like this?

How does "light" damage constitute a salvaged title? Or, how much work has to be done before the title has to be changed to salvage? Thanks for any help.

My car and truck both have salvaged titles, it really matters why. They total a truck out if it is rear ended on the assumption the frame is bent, even if it isn't. If the frame and front end are straight it should be alright. They might total it out b/c it was too difficult/expensive to repair as my mercedes was when my dad crashed it.

Check the gaps also.

Be sure and get a pre-purchase inspection too make sure you don't find any surprises. Be sure and check all the mounts for the engine and tranny too.

Salvages are for people who who don't care about resale and just want to drive.

And from what i have noticed, be ready to pay cash. They will only be able to have basic insurance.

be sure to look at the firewall. If you can check floor pan. Look closely at every thing.

Datsun1500 wrote: Light damage does not make a salvage title, the car was totaled by an insurance company. Usually that means a lot of damage. If you buy it plan on keeping it for a long time, most of the time dealers will not take it on trade. The general rule around here is, the salvage title car is worth 1/2 what a good title car is worth.

Yup......that's right. It's salvaged when it costs more to fix than what it is worth. That was no "light damage".

yup insurance didn't want to pay to fix it... could be repaired properly... could have been a crap job... but with a car like that it would take a good bit of damage to get it up to the $$$ to be totaled...

it's easy to total a 10+ year old car (if you for some strange reason still have full coverage)... new cars it takes a bit more effort

there are a lot of cars on ebay with salvage titles and they always claim "light bumper/fender" damage.

Can't imagine the insurance companies totalling a car for a fender and bumper...

The insurance company totaled my car out because estimated damage was more than 75% of what they valued the car. There's no way that "light damage" came up to 75% of the value of a 350Z!

I'd only buy a salvage car that was at least 20 years old, and then only after a thorough inspection (or knowing the car beforehand, including exactly what happened).

I'd only buy this car for parts.

A salvage title forester was on my short list back in the spring. It had been rolled when the girl driving it drifted off the road and over corected. Now I kinda wish i went for it. it looked awsome...

If the thing drives straight is strong and shifts well take a look at it. Be especially observant of the allignment. But for a 2005 that is pretty weird. Get a carfax report and the details of the accident and be sure and have it inspected. The only issue is if the car wasn't put back together correctly and a problem surfaces in the future. If it was gone through well though there isn't any reason to ignore it.

For the potential trouble I'd pass on it if the savings weren't substantial. It is only a matter of circumstances that has left all of my cars with salvaged titles. Even the bike would have one if I hadn't put it back together myself.

Think of how many water damaged cars there are with clean titles before discounting salvage cars.

I agree with most of what's been said here, but there are bargains to be found.

I've had several, and I've always been happy with them. But I'm not looking at resale- I'm looking at a really good pricetag for a car I want to drive. I also don't generally carry collision insurance, and certainly wouldn't on a salvage title car.

Totaling a car is strictly based on a the cost of repairs as a percentage of appraised value. So, yes the damaged exceeded the value of the car (or sometimes 75% of the value).

However, consider newer cars. A front ender could have easily blown the airbags without destroying the car. Many modern cars can have significant damage to the interior if the bags blow. First is the cost of the bags (over $1500 each), but many of them destroy the dashboard when they blow as well.

It's not hard for me to imagine $5000 worth of "light" front end damage and an additional $8000- $10,000 in interior damage to a car that is still pretty serviceable.

Don't buy it for a $1000 discount off list. Buy it for a 40% discount off list, plus the joy of no longer needing to carry collision insurance.

Your airbag point is valid, but your numbers are quite a bit inflated. Airbags generally average around $600-$800 each. With the smarter systems now, it's not automatic that both blow if the passenger seat is unoccupied. However, in addition to the bag you have required replacement parts that generally include the SRS brain box ($500-$1200), impact sensors ($100-$200), clockspring in the steering column ($75-$200) and the seatbelts if they are equipped with pretensioners ($100-$250 each). So you're really only talking about $2500-$3000 for a typical front end deployment. Side deployments (curtains, seat bags) are a different deal and vary greatly. While it is true there are some models that will destroy the steering column (Chryslers) and/or dash (Cavaliers, of all things) these are the exception rather than the rule.

Unless it's a 8-10 year old car or older, I would be extremely cautious about a salvage title car.

Here's some advice from somebody that actually sees real-life salvage cars every day: Insurance companies are weird. On the subject of 350z's in particular, I've had 2 that did indeed have light damage -- one just needed the front bumper and core support (I think I could've straigtened the core support). Once it got to auction, though, the skilled forklift drivers berkeleyed up the rear bumper cover, and bent up the rockers something awful.

Then, of course, there was the rolled over a couple times in 3 axis' 350z that then caught fire. I think 2 lugnuts and possibly the engine block were good.

If it's a track car I'd be all over a salvage titled car like stink on E36 M3, but pay for the car like it's got a salvage title. No matter what condition it is, it's always going to have a salvage title (unless you live in a state where it's easy to convert or wash the title) and the resale is going to be difficult and nowhere near what a clean title car would be. A track car is going to end up getting run into a wall, or down a culvert, or over a catch fence doing 8 flips in the air... if everything lines up right and there's no huge frame damage, take your discount and run.

Also, you don't have to be a professional to spot frame repairs. If they're E36 M3ty, believe me, you'll notice. If they're not, chances are it was done by a professional... the "professional" may be their skills in cover-up and conning, but they're professional none-the-less.

Joking aside, give the car a good look over or have somebody you trust do it. If the price is right, there's no reason to shy away. Just make sure it's also currently registered, as there's usually a several hundred dollar "bring back to life" charge if it hasn't been done, but it depends on the state.

ChrisTaylor wrote: Here's some advice from somebody that actually sees real-life salvage cars every day: Insurance companies are weird.

So, so true. I've seen cars at salvage auction that you really had to search for the damage that came with a certificate of destruction. I've also seen cars that were totally wasted that still carried a clean title. Granted, these are the exceptions, not the rule, but it does happen. My dad bought an Mercedes S sedan that just needed a hood, grill, and headlight that had a salvage title. Insurance paid off over ten grand because it was "totaled", and it cost less than two grand to fix.

ddavidv wrote: Your airbag point is valid, but your numbers are quite a bit inflated. Airbags generally average around $600-$800 each. With the smarter systems now, it's not automatic that both blow if the passenger seat is unoccupied. However, in addition to the bag you have required replacement parts that generally include the SRS brain box ($500-$1200), impact sensors ($100-$200), clockspring in the steering column ($75-$200) and the seatbelts if they are equipped with pretensioners ($100-$250 each). So you're really only talking about $2500-$3000 for a typical front end deployment. Side deployments (curtains, seat bags) are a different deal and vary greatly. While it is true there are some models that will destroy the steering column (Chryslers) and/or dash (Cavaliers, of all things) these are the exception rather than the rule. Unless it's a 8-10 year old car or older, I would be extremely cautious about a salvage title car.

I'm sure your numbers are better than mine. I was specifically thinking of models which destroy the dash and adds a ridiculous amount. I don't know about the Z.

Still, a light hit in the front plus $3000 worth of deployment costs and $1000 in a destroyed dash could easily hit the 75% value of a used Z. Theres a nice condition one sitting on a car dealer's lot near me for $12K.

Previous 350Z owner, would not buy a salvaged 350z. There are so many ones without a salvage title for less than $10k, look around.

Every salvage title car I've ever seen listed said "light damage", who would buy a car that had "cant believe someone lived through this, damage"?

i had a 94 Chrysler LHS that had a salvage title because it was a theft recovery... there was absolutely nothing wrong with it other than being stolen at some point... it also had a state issued VIN tag riveted in the door jam to replace the original VIN in the dash, but still had the same numbers and letters as the one Chrysler put on it when it was built..

I've salvaged cars, but never the title.

"Light damage" could be anything. I've got a salvaged S13, and quite frankly I'm ready to pull the motor I just dropped back out. Fortunately I got well over the $100 I paid for in just wiring.

Use your eyes and you'll see any major damage unless you know someone who can look it over for you. Likely, it is just fine.

EDIT - Just realized this was a zombie thread...

Just as an FYI, 70 or 75% is generally used as a "rule of thumb" on when cars get totalled, but isn't a hard and fast rule. Some states will dictate when a car is totalled, others don't. I've fixed cars all the way up to 95% of it's value in some cases (heck, I've had some where I ultimately paid more than full value), and I've also totaled cars out at 50% value.

Any time a car has a salvage value, do your research. It may be a bargain, it may be a nightmare.