Can outside temp cause a carb’d vehicle to stall?

In reply to L5wolvesf :

I only loosened them and twisted it left and right. I did not take the whole cover off. 

octavious said:

In reply to L5wolvesf :

I only loosened them and twisted it left and right. I did not take the whole cover off. 

Post up 2 pictures of the choke actuator.

One, with it cold, from where the adjustment was before you adjusted it.

One, with it cold, showing where the adjustment is now.

This is when I brought it home.

Based on the date pic of the photo, I'm pretty sure this  is before I touched it. Other than to test power. 
 

This is where it is now. 

In reply to octavious :

It kind of looks like you over adjusted it. I'll grab one of my Rochesters tomorrow and get back to you. 

When you move the throttle linkage by hand do you see a squirt of fuel shooting into the bore? With the choke open.

Thanks for looking at your carb for me.
 

And with the choke open where it is currently, and moving the throttle I do NOT see gas shooting in. I mean it sounds like gas and smells like gas, but neither my son or I saw gas shooting in. 
 

And I tried, just for giggles, but obviously it isn't starting right now. 

The fuel that is supposed to shooting in is the fuel that gets the engine going. Ni squirt no start.

Get a flashlight and make sure there is no squirt. And pump the throttle like you mean it.

When you went through the carb did you replace the accel pump?

It looks like this

In reply to L5wolvesf :

I never went through the carb. I tightened it down to the manifold, plugged the open port, replaced some old hoses, and adjusted the actuator. 

 

Also, should the dash pot vacuum line be above the throttle plate, or below? 

RE the vacuum lines. Google vacuum line diagram for the year, make and engine you have.

RE the accelerator pump. You need to verify that the pump is or is not squirting fuel - visually not by smell. If not squirting you may need to replace it or rebuild the carb. A rebuild is not really hard.

RE the choke adjustment. None of my Rochester carbs have that type of choke.

Here is a vid that explains how to adjust the choke. It is regarding a conversion but the adjustment procedure is the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjtYePcu22A

In reply to L5wolvesf :

I adjusted the choke closed on a cold engine just like in the video. I gave it a pump and it fired right up. Idled high and then came down. I haven't driven it yet (kids soccer).  
 

How do I adjust the choke to fully open when the engine at operating temp? 

https://youtu.be/ej3ZbS0mIyI?si=Yh8ZeaZHxqlSTIHI
 

My dash pot is on the opposite side of the one in this video. Does that matter?

He confused me a little when he confused himself on the hot idle adjustment. When he says "high lobe" of the idle cam, he means completely no throttle at all? And low side would mean throttle wide open? Mine never touches the high lobe with the throttle closed. It is at most on the middle lobe, and then on the low lobe with the throttle open. 

octavious said:

My dash pot is on the opposite side of the one in this video. Does that matter?

RE the dashpot. Post a picture of the dashpot from the side showing the linkage so I can tell what it is attached to.

Here you go. 
 

I did give the throttle a pull and the choke closed for this photo. 
 

Here is the lobe and it's current position. 

Also, this hose runs nowhere. When I remove it and hit the port with starting fluid nothing changes. And if I cover the outlet nothing changes. Does it need to be plugged? 

With me holding the throttle open all the way, this tang on the throttle arm (not sure if that name is correct), hits the bottom of the idle lobe and causes it to move. It looks like I can adjust the tang to have it hit the lobe sooner or later. 

octavious said:

Also, this hose runs nowhere. When I remove it and hit the port with starting fluid nothing changes. And if I cover the outlet nothing changes. Does it need to be plugged? 

Ignore that for now.

That, what you are calling a “dashpot”, is attached to the choke plate. It is actually the choke “pull off” - see part number 22 on your parts diagram. It is where it should be. It opens the choke plate under certain conditions. In this case it may be keeping the choke plate from fully opening.

RE the fully open position. It could be a binding linkage issue. You would have to disconnect the throttle return spring and work the linkage to feel or see if there is any binding when you manually open the choke plate all the way.

A dashpot is most often on automatic trans vehicles to prevent the throttle from slamming shut - possibly causing the engine to stall.

In reply to L5wolvesf :

So I rechecked and adjusted the choke just a little based on the video.  I think I still had it slightly too lose.   If the choke is closed and I put vacuum on the pull off (formerly dash pot LOL), the plunger moves in and the choke opens slightly. It also does this if I press the throttle as well. 

I took the springs off and checked for binding, but did not find any. Everything appears to move freely. 

Now, from the videos he talks about the the fast idle came lobe. Is it supposed to drop freely of its own weight when cold? Or does it only begin to drop after the engine is warmed up? 

So the choke pull off (it was only a dashpot in your mind  ) seems to be working. But can you see if it is keeping the choke plate from completely opening?

Next, how is it starting, running etc now? Is the timing and idle at spec?

RE the fast idle cam. Look at the linkage that is attached to the choke etc. the cam works off of that linkage. The linkage is moved by the choke pull off and/or the choke actuator. As the engine warms up the fast idle will drop off and idle speed will just be controlled by the idle screw.

When the engine is just fired up and on the fast idle cam set the fast idle