Car to replace Ducati

UPDATE Wow, Its been a year since I originally posted. Sorry for lack of follow-up, but its been a crazy year. Life got in the way. Of course, as life would have it my motorcycle fund went ahem "temporarily" into a new bathroom. And we had a family matter. Anyway enough about me.

Well I recently bought a '91 Miata 1.6 long nose PS/AC/VLSD. A guy in town was selling one with a hard top and I picked her up for $1400.

-Its only got 82k miles, compression on pistons is 180/170/160/180 so not too bad considering factory is 192psi.

-Suspension is shot, especially rear keeps bottoming out, so can't get on gas too abruptly

-Looks like its leaking from the CAS, and I will be replacing the O-ring soon.

Not really sold on the performance aspect of it so I may flip her in the summertime.

Is there performance to be had form this little 1.6?

SilverFleet wrote: My friend Pseudosport built one for the GRM $20xx Challenge for under $2k, and he drove that car everywhere. It was really fast, easy to build and maintain, and handled like a go-kart.

You got my attention. Can you point me in the right direction for info?

I've seen turbo kits that makes these cars real fun.

Paging Keith Tanner...

www.flyinmiata.com

Forced induction is where you wanna go if you're trying to squeeze the 1.6; the 1.8 cars are a better base for a few reasons but you can definitely have some fun in a 1.6 with the right mods.

jhaas wrote: i say b5 A4 quattro, or 90-91 audi coupe quattro (i painted this one!) http://rezmoto.com/magazine/2010/July2010/RezmotoArt3_2.php AUDI S6 for $2k http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/200x-classifieds/1995-audi-s6-2000-in-mo/46469/page1/

wow that coupe is nice

About a decade ago I was racing a D-Sports Racer (for those who done know them 900lb single seat car with 175-185 1000c bike engine) on one particular occasion I signed up for the Solo I session that was part of our regular region races. In one of the sessions I was rapidly catching up to a Miata, which was about 100 yds ahead as we came out on to the front straight I assumed I would bomb past but instead it took twice as long as I expected to go past. After the session I checked out the car which turned out to be 260 WHP turbo Miata.

BEATO............on your Duc at track days I'm sure you encountered guys on 125 Honda GP bikes that were turning faster lap times then riders on 750-1000cc bikes, I was one of those guys and I can tell you the Miata is the same. I spend a bit of time coaching/instructing friends with Spec Miatas and the key is a small bore bike mentality, you need to drive/ ride like a complete animal yet not scrub off any speed. Read get the maximum out of all tires at the same time all the time. A friend called my driving style slippery smooth and I thought that best illustrated the technique. A Miata is the most fun car you will ever drive and probably one of the most satisfying. Note I say this even though I've run a pure race car that was literally 30 seconds a lap faster on a 2.4 mile course.

So to answer your question yes you can get more out of a 1.6 (the driver is the most important performance part) before you judge the car fix the dampers, it should not be bottoming out like that, the car should corner like mad. As for the motor 125WHP is a decent goal for a NA motor. Turbo's I do not know so well but I think 150-180 range is fairly common for basic kit and 200+ with a bit more boost. Again fix the suspension and take it to a track day before you judge the car.

        Tom

rear keeps bottoming out, so can't get on gas too abruptly

if the rear suspension is bottoming from stock 1.6L power you got some problems back there!

nice purchase!

SlickDizzy wrote: Paging Keith Tanner...

Yeah, I got all three books. My Bed Time material.

Thanks every one for the help.

Next steps: - Make sure engine is well tuned. - Get suspension sorted. - Brake Pads - Roll Bar Fabrication - SoloMiata's cheap HP tricks - track tires - track time

Well Summer is here and time to roll out the car out of the garage. Here is what I have done: -Energy suspension bushings all around(except large diff ones ) -New OEM steering arms -Flyin' Miata Stage 1.5 suspension kit (with tokico illumina shocks)with FM bump stops, shocks and sway bars+ racing beat end links. -New shock mounts on all 4 including Flyin' Miata in the rear -NGK plugs and wires -Advance timing to 14 degrees -Switch out all oils for Redline goodness -New CAS gasket but still leaks

Projects to follow -Install Boss frog MaXX roll bar -Order Advanti storm 15x7 wheels on Nitto NT-05 -Order Hawk blues -Sign up for Aug 28 track day@ Lime rock.

Thanks everyone for the advice along the way. Its coming along. I will post picture once done

I would have just bought an alfa or something else italian.

In reply to yamaha:

I would have just bought hookers and blow.

Which is more fun yet possibly less ruinous than an Alfa.

After the track day I would love to hear your report. Having bike experience is a huge help and I think you be pleasantly surprised by how well the Miata gets around the course.

  Tom

For ~$8k a complete diet and lifestyle change is probably the best thing you can do for a Miata to make it more bike-like...

Exomotive Exocet

I finally hit the track. Lime Rock Race track, Ran in SCDA novice in late september

Here are the pictures Here is the video my instructor is Stuart Hawkins who races #26spec miata in SM2.

Car felt good. I had a blast. In turn 1 and 2 I felt I could steer the rear with the throttle.

I am hooked and got to save up pennies for more track days.

Only thing wrong with the car, after I reinstalled "newer" carpet and reassembled the dash, gauge cluster decided not to work. still trying to figure it out. Other than that I was able to drive the car to and from the track.

Thanks to all my "older brothers" for the wisdom.

I started my road racing on motorbikes, retired, did karts a while and eventually ended up in cars w/ an e36 M3. I autocrossed it stock a season, prepared it for SCCA STU, did that 2 years and tried a track day. Initiate slippery slope. I was instruting and doing TTs after another year or so, lucked into an affordable D sports racer, and am going 22 seconds quicker at Summit Point than I did on a bike. So I have some perspective on your goals.

From instructing I see first hand which cars stay together and which don't. I have a good view of which cars offer the best bandwidth for growth, and which are the least frustrating, or most productive tools for driver improvement. While I still have a really well developed e36 M3 and a well sorted early NA Miata, for a stone relaible track tool that will let you experience some real speed, grip, acceleration and braking it's really hard to beat that e36. Once you fix the used-up stuff (every bushing, cooling system) and put on some suspension and tires, it'll haul ass all day, session after session, and comfortably get you home. Get a good one, not a cheap one, and take the time to safety wire or tack weld the oil pump sprocket nut. Install a VAC Motorsports pan baffle while you're there.

Coming from the Duc (I had a '93 900SS w/ shortened CarbonTek cans and a K&N filter in an open frame) you like something that sounds great. The inline 6 w/ an exhaust and an intake sounds fantastic.

So my vote is to get one an don't look back. BTW, you can sell an NA hardtop for $1200, easy, and the car for $3+.

Travis_K wrote: Neither would I, after seeing what my friend had to do to change the front main seal in his moms A6. It was fine once he got it back together, but it was such a ridiculously difficult job the car was sold shortly after while it didnt need any work.

I find an audi that ever "didn't need any work" very suspicious.

In reply to BEATO:

I see an S13/14 is on your list. I have an RB20DET sitting around (already wired for one) that needs to either be used or sold. Just an option.

In reply to motomoron: thanks eventually I see myself in M3 and feel the e36 is under appreciated. The miata works for me now because: -not too much power so I learn to drive the car better instead of resorting to acceleration to cover my mistakes as I learn. -bulletproof cars and cheap parts -inexpensive to run, allowing for more funds allocated to track day$$

Out of curiosity, how much for a "well sorted" e36 m3?