Yeah, an LS specific T56 would be fun. Not gonna happen. I'm looking for the cheap option. AFAIK, old school trannies will line up with the exception of 1 hole, right? What else is there to know? Which one do I want? Hydraulic bearing would be simpler than a linkage or cable I would think. It needs to be something that is widely available and worth nothing to junkyards.
T-10?
Car or truck shifter location? Lots of truck stuff...
Car shifter would probably work better, but I'm sure we could adapt anything.
I have always though an A833 (MY6 in GM terminology) would go great there. Might need a little beefing depending on the power levels you want, but it has an aluminum case and an overdrive. I have one behind a old school 350 that I am fond of.
You can still find Ford WC T5's for under $200... It is everything else that makes it expensive to the point of you should have just bought the T56 in the first place.....
What about an old school Muncie or similar?
I have a Quick Time bellhousing that I can use a Muncie behind a LS.
Some folks use MA5, too, the Solstice/Colorado, but I have no idea if it requires a special bell or where the shifter ends up.
All of the old transmissions do bolt up, less the one bolt hole, and it's been drag raced to single-digit times, so I wouldn't worry about that little guy. So if you find an old Muncie or T-10, it will drop right in. The T-5 is another option, and is being used increasingly. Don't expect it to survive any drag launches, but otherwise you can get one to live for awhile. Another option is the A833, and it's a tough trans. There's a guy with one behind an old school 383 stroker in a 65 Impala that seams to be surviving well.
tuna55 wrote: Some folks use MA5, too, the Solstice/Colorado, but I have no idea if it requires a special bell or where the shifter ends up.
There's a guy on 355 nation forum who made it work in his Colorado. I messaged with him some when I was thinking about using a MA5 for a low buck LSX E36 project. He used an aftermarket bellhousing that is typically used to adapt LSX/SBCs to certain jeep transmissions. I think there would be two main shifter options: really far forward (Colorado location) or far back (Solstice). Upside is they use a hydraulic throwout bearing, are relatively cheap, light and seem to survive pretty well behind LNFs with the boost turned up. There are some differences between the colorado and solstice versions. Solstice got better synchros on one or two of the gears as well as additional hardening on one of the gears, IIRC. Supposedly the H3 hummer version also got the upgraded parts.
This would be a road racer, not a drag car, so not drag launches, but 14 hours of 2-3-4 pulls followed by 4-3-2 braking zones. On the plus side, it's a light car on street tires, so there's only so much abuse the tires are actually capable of delivering.
The chump rules base swaps on the value of items from car-part.com. LS engines are cheap. Unfortunately, modern transmissions are a lot by that measure. Thus the motivation.
DILYSI Dave wrote: This would be a road racer, not a drag car, so not drag launches, but 14 hours of 2-3-4 pulls followed by 4-3-2 braking zones. On the plus side, it's a light car on street tires, so there's only so much abuse the tires are actually capable of delivering. The chump rules base swaps on the value of items from car-part.com. LS engines are cheap. Unfortunately, modern transmissions are a lot by that measure. Thus the motivation.
Given that it seems you don't care about an overdrive. Munice or T10 for you, sir.
SM465
JMcD wrote:tuna55 wrote: Some folks use MA5, too, the Solstice/Colorado, but I have no idea if it requires a special bell or where the shifter ends up.There's a guy on 355 nation forum who made it work in his Colorado. I messaged with him some when I was thinking about using a MA5 for a low buck LSX E36 project. He used an aftermarket bellhousing that is typically used to adapt LSX/SBCs to certain jeep transmissions. I think there would be two main shifter options: really far forward (Colorado location) or far back (Solstice). Upside is they use a hydraulic throwout bearing, are relatively cheap, light and seem to survive pretty well behind LNFs with the boost turned up. There are some differences between the colorado and solstice versions. Solstice got better synchros on one or two of the gears as well as additional hardening on one of the gears, IIRC. Supposedly the H3 hummer version also got the upgraded parts.
Yanno...
If the Solstice trans bolts up.... then so should a Toyota R154 in theory.
Sounds strange? Yeah, i know.
In reply to fidelity101:
Novak lists the weight of the SM465 as 175 pounds with an iron case. I bet it'd live, but I doubt the OP wants something that heavy. MY6 seems like a much better alternative, right?
Street tires? Road race car? Light?
T-5!
from a little itnernetting - the T10 and the Muncie weigh around 70 and the MY6 is closer to 85. If you want OD, go for the MY6 for sure.
T5 probably won't survive that long behind a LS, even in road racing, especially in an endurance event. Not to mention that V8 T5s are not very cheap anymore and the V6 ones sometimes break just looking at them.
A late 70s ST10 would be a good choice with a variety of ratios out there. Scrounge around enough and you can find one fairly cheap. Muncies go for more money than ST10s.
A SM465 would be a horrible road race choice, with very wide ratios, slow as molasses shifting and really only 3 usable forward gears. My Dually has one and it does a good job towing but that is about it.
the new venture box put behind the 4.3L v6 could probably take it. I abused the E36 M3 out of one and it never did fail.....but as you don't need OD, the Muncie is the way to go.
What kind of budget are we working with?
My knee jerk reaction would be a WC T5. New ford versions are about $1500 and they should last a while and give you long legged OD if that matters.
I would never want a transmission with the external shift rods and no OD.
T10.
NOHOME wrote: I would never want a transmission with the external shift rods and no OD.
Why? he's racing the thing in chump. You don't need an OD to do that. External shift rods are fine, too. Shift "quality" may lack, but who cares? They've lived successfully under misused uncared for cars for decades. Heck, I DD'ed a three-on-the-tree. You want to talk about external shift rods? Holy crap! Never let me down, though.
Novak sells adaptors to put the R154 behind an LS variant engine. FWIW.
I am also interested in this. Just picked up a complete 4.8 down to the fan and ECU for $150 out of a rolled truck. Problem is getting a manual behind it. Looks like a T-10 is probably a good choice.
As far as I know to run the T-5 you need a custom bellhousing. One of the guys we run Chumpcar with has a FC RX-7 track car with a 5.3/T-5. I believe he said the bellhousing was around $600 then the cost of the a WC T-5. He prefers late 94+ V6 mustang World Class Transmissions. I believe he is on his second in about a year of regular HPDE's.
I found some of this info from digging on the T-10.
flywheel pn 12561680 and spacer pn 12557583 and bolts 12563533 bellhousing bolts pn 11512767 all chevy parts www.gmpartsdirect.com this will bolt up skiping one hole
you must have vss signal. get the in line adapter made by speed scene wiring PN LS61325
This thread has lots of good info also. http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59382
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