Taken from the neon acr restoration thread. I THINK im at the high build stage and the car is straight on the shell and doors and hood.
We have sandblasting, epoxy primer round one, and hours of filler work done already. And rust repair.
My understanding of the next steps are thus:
1.Finish prepping all the nooks and crannies of the jambs and exterior panels with 180 grit. This includes doors and hood.
2. Vacuum all dust and media i can up.
3. Wipe down with lacquer thinner and a paper towel.
4. Spray single coat of epoxy primer.
5. Wait 15-20 minutes for epoxy to "flash" (thats no longer wet as judging by sticking my finger on it, right?)
6. Spray 4-5 heavy coats of high build primer. Only on exterior panels and door jambs that i can sand thoroughly afterwards. Not engine bay or trunk gutters or door hinges.
7. Keep sanding with blocks/320/400/600 and guidecoat.
Right? Please give any feedback you have!
I wouldn't use lacquer thinner. This is what the prep solvent is for. Thinner is too harsh and in my experience can soften your primer or guide coat
In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :
Ok! I need to go find prep solvent at lunch today then.
And tack cloths. YouTube made it very clear that all the good paint jobs use lint free cloths and tack cloths. But that may be before color. Or when you have a booth.
The best generic prep solvent is naptha available cheapest at Lowedepot. Same chemical for more money at the automotive paint store often called "Prepsol", an old DuPont trademark.
Turns out that wax and grease remover is the same as prepsol. And it turns out i have a bottle of it that i don't remember buying!
Yay!
So, the conversation has centered around wipe down product.
Im assuming that the rest of the stuff is correct?
So Naptha = Prepsol = wax and grease remover ? Good to know. I sense I will be doing this before too long...
Is my understanding of flash time and application steps right? Same with placement of high build?
Im also wondering if places like the engine bah ahve to be done with high build, or if i can do base/clear straight to prepped epoxy.....
