Clutch question: 103 degree fever editon

Im slightly delirious, so this may not make sense.

I grenaded the clutch in the duster. Uses a 360 dodge pressure plate, jeep throwout bearing, and mustang disc.

The setup WAS a spec stage 3. Its now confetti. $475 worth of confetti. Thank god for a blowproof bellhousing.

Anyway, car is parked while i save some money. 

The car weighs around 4k, is on 200tw tires, makes right at 400/400 to the wheels. 

It is used for cuising, stress release, hooning on occasion, traveling. No drags or autocross anymore as collector car insurance won't let me. 

My fever inspired ide: buy a $50 dodge clutch kit on ebay. Buy a $50 mustang kit.

Mix, match, and roll.

Why is this a horrible idea? Other than its a MOTHERberkeleyER to pull the drivetrain from this car. It takesa year hiatus (estimates) and makes it a month or two.

Other than you'll likely blow it again?  Nothing is wrong with the idea.

how much do you like dropping transmissions out of red dusters?

What era of mustang disc? 

If it's the 86-01 style the exedy parts are well  regarded. I used a ram stage 3 in my 88 gt.  The king cobra kit is always popular but only rated 350whp. 

As a side note my bosses nova weighed 4100lbs and he used a ram clutch in that car. Never dyno tested but the car went 10.90s in the quarter mile with a muncie 4 speed

Foxbody

And dropping the trans is easy. It pulling the engine to get the headers and bellhousing off that sucks.

So, essentially it would be a time bomb? 

Id still like to know what caused this failure. 

I'll be the A$$hat here ford parts in a Berkin' MOPAR...WTF?!?!?!??? sorry DB13 but I've never seen a mashup like this ever...

In reply to 759NRNG :

My tremec was purchased used. Originally from a mustang.

But i paid a grand for it....

I'm still wondering how you added ~900lbs to a Duster. That is a lot of extra stress on the clutch.

The first thing that I would do is get different headers that don't require the removal of them to change a clutch.

In reply to buzzboy :ac, power steering, sound deadening and insulation, chassis bracing, sterestereo, electric buckets, 225lbs of me....

In reply to akylekoz :

If it wasn't for the Lakewood, i wouldn't have to. 

If I remember every dodge/plymouth I ever did the headers were in the way, of WHATEVER I wanted to work on.

10”(79-85) or the 10.5”(86-93) clutch disc?

Shoot an email out to California clutch for a stupid cheap disc. More times than not a clutch fails from a losing clamping pressure pressure plate.

In reply to GTXVette :

Which is why i wanted to believe the magazine reviews of tti. Bolt in, clears everything, etc. They got me for almost a grand. Not as bad to work around as hooker or hedman, but not $800 better, either. 

In reply to Ranger50 :

Will do. Pretty sure its the 10.5 diameter disc. But would need to verify against the pressure plate. Just cant remember for certain. 

The guys I bought my TKO-600 from recommended Ram Clutch. These guys, D&D Transmission (Don Walsh Sr and Jr), were former Ford guys and big in to drag racing Ford products.  I highly respect their input.

Back in the day, I replaced the clutch behind my 5.9 Cummins with a South Bend Clutch.  Pleased with it for the 80,000 miles I had it.

Ram and centerforce are both on my radar. This spec had less than 10k on it, probably less than 5. 

However, were right back into the $400 range. But i giess thats where i need to be to get a proper clutch for the car.

http://kyclutch.com/

When i did my goofy gearbox conversion via adapter plate, this guy had no issue putting together a similar mix-and-match setup for me.  Pricing was reasonable and it has held up fine.

Big centerforce honk here.....150-160K mi between replacements on Ol' gray (378K)

Granted, I have never had anything with that much HP, but I always run the OEM Exedy clutches in all the race cars.

I have NEVER had a problem with one that wasnt due to slippage.

The only one that did have a problem (due to slippage) was because the HTOB wouldnt let the clutch fully engage.  It caused ALOT of heat and finally blew the clutch (sort of).  It was still abel to be driven, it just caused a TON of vibration.

My vote is Exedy and make sure the clutch will fully engage.  Lots of measureing required.... 

AnthonyGS said:

I’ve had good luck with Exedy and Ram in my 5.0 Fords and old SVO.  I think Ram made the old Ford Motorsport king cobra clutches and that was always one of my favorites.  Feels like OEM but held more torque.  

I ran one of those clutches in my NMRA Factory Stock car and it was all valeo.