CRX - where to go from here?

My long-term-project car has been stable and providing fun, cheap service for the past couple years.

It's a 1991 Honda CRX, repainted bright green. Suspension's stock aside from Koni shocks. It's got a B16A with a 4-2-1 and an el-cheapo big-cone-filter intake; the gearset is the short GS-R gears with a tall LS 5th, and there's a plate-type diff in there. The computer's on some base map that makes it run rich enough to only get 30 mpg or so - the tailpipe's black all the time. The heater core's been bypassed because it leaks.

I'll be graduating in a few months and will probably go for the next round of changes next summer.

It's definitely time for a set of light 15" wheels and whatever the hot tire ends up being next summer. That's going to be the first modification, and I'll just go around looking for a secondhand set of wheels with a spring scale or a list of wheels and weights.

Has anyone used the HardRace suspension parts? I'm thinking about replacing all four upper and lower control arms - the bushings are original. For springs, does 550/450 sound right with about a 60% front weight?

Does anyone know of a 12V heater capable of actually defrosting a windshield?

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/electric-windshield-defogger/53531/page1/

Maybe this will help with the defroster.

What do you want to do with it?

I just want it for a fun, quick, predictable road car that can occasionally run in Street Tire autox class. I'll mostly be racing a kart.

I wouldn't go that stiff with the springs then. I ran 400/400 and it was quite neutral with a big sway bar in the back.

I can't find the spring rate anywhere, but I have H&R OE Sport springs matched with Koni Yellows on my 90 CRX HF and it's a great combo on most roads. Only lowers it about 3/4" which allowed my car to be aligned to -1 degree up front and -0.5 degree out back without needing camber kits, just the stock alignment tolerances. And most brotatoes can't notice it's been lowered at all, so I don't get any grief at red lights.

It's pretty stiff for a DD, trips longer than 45 min or so and my 6 foot frame begins to be angered by the old tired seats. On smooth roads however the combo is great and rides smooth. Can still clear speed bumps, albeit slower than a normal car.

With the current setup I can definitely feel the difference with a full tank of gas and a spare in the back, it actually rides better and feels more planted in fast on-ramps. An empty tank and no spare and the ride quality degrades quickly.

I agree with Dave Estey - no need to go that high for a road car that only autocrosses occasionally. If you're set on linear rate coil-overs I might even consider closer to 300-350lb/in. That said, some of the aftermarket progressive springs made fit the stock perches might be an even better compromise. Cheaper too. I know it's easy to knock progressive springs, but in my experience as long as they're controlled by a decent damper (like the yellows), they're kinda preferable for a street car.

Food for thought - a lot of guys go stiffer on the rear springs on fwd cars. It helps the the drive wheels maintain grip longer due to the fact that the axle with the most roll couple will tend to lose grip first. Of course, swaybars and wheel rates/geometry play into this and is probably why Dave felt his was neutral with even springs all-around and a big rear swaybar.

350/500 would get the ride frequencies out of the same range. I guess I'll have to do a bunch of calculations to get the LLTD right.

This may amuse you. 1:32 is pretty quick at Hallett.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=AK-UDIAS570

Fixed link.

I run 350/450 GC coil overs on Konis. HF front sway bar, and ST rear. Hard bushings everywhere in the suspension. The car is driven daily and cleans up in STS. If it wasn't daily driven, the springs would be much stiffer.

hate to say it but why not replace the heater core? its less than a days work.

In reply to KATYB:

Much less.

just noticed the op was asking for an electrical heater to work for defrost.

In reply to KATYB:

In the Accord that I built for LeMons, replacing the heater core means supporting the car on a jig and pulling the crossbeam - is that the case with a CRX?

Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system. Disconnect heater hoses at heater and install plugs in core tubes. Disconnect control cable from heater valve. Position front seats in full rearward position, then remove console. Disconnect electrical connectors from fuse block, then remove fuse block attaching screws and lower fuse box. Disconnect instrument panel ground wire from steering column. Remove coin box, if equipped. Remove side vent control lever, then remove screws attaching heater control to instrument panel. Remove instrument cluster Remove instrument panel Remove heater duct, then remove lower heater housing mounting nut. Remove steering column bracket and duct assembly, the disconnect electrical connector at heater control. Remove heater housing to cowl attaching bolts, then remove heater housing.

Remove heater core cover from heater housing Remove heater core tube clamp, then remove heater core from heater housing. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following: When installing instrument panel, ensure panel is properly positioned on guide and that wiring harness are properly routed. Tighten instrument panel attaching bolts alternately and evenly, to ensure instrument panel remains properly aligned. calls for 6.4 hours with ac 5.4 without and um sorry supporting car on a jig for a heater core cause it wouldnt be ok without it? ive been around and thats a new one to me........ what year accore?

In reply to chaparral:

I believe that you just have to take the whole dash out, but that's the worst of it. Honda people, double check me on this??

(Well... erm, okay. Drain all of the coolant, disconnect coolant lines, unscrew all of the little vents, disconnect climate control shenanigans, take the dash out, etc. etc. etc. Prepare for an afternoon :) I agree with KATYB though. I think that maintaining your car now is good practice for the future. Granted, most race cars are stripped down to nothing but have all of the bells and whistles of fun performance stuff.... but pretty miserable daily drivers. Maybe keep a nice balance of both?

As far as suspension goes, I would ask this guy: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/200x-classifieds/wtb-suspension-for-90-crx/45289/page1/ what he ended up with.... whatever it was (and I don't really know...) it was sweet for street and AutoX.

Hope this helps. :)

Why do you need/want an electric heater for defrost? I've never had any problem with the factory system in defogging the windshield, although A/C helps a lot. Electric elements, which my company sells, suck a lot of electricity, and can be a fire hazard if not used carefully. Add to that a strong blower and you'll be needing to upgrade your alternator just to keep up.