What about a battery for a larger engine? A BMW 4.4L V8 to be specific. Is there a way to determine how many CCA's are needed? In the original BMW 540i, it had a monstrosity of a battery, ~1000 CCA's. How much of that is for the crazy amount of accessories rather than just starting?
OK, so... if you have a race car that can turn over, start and maintain charge on a $30 motorcycle battery... my thought process jumps to:
Maybe I should lay off the coffee.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: OK, so... if you have a race car that can turn over, start and maintain charge on a $30 motorcycle battery... my thought process jumps to: - Can I eliminate the alternator, weight and resulting load on the engine if I use a slightly larger battery than the minimum? Deep cycle perhaps? - Can I run off the battery for race length and just charge it in the paddock? If I stall - is there enough reserve to start in this scenario? - Can I adapt fast-rechargeable Lion batteries from 28v hand tools to provide fast changeover during an enduro pit stop even if they are only for maintaining operating current and not capable of starting the motor? - If I can't get away with no alternator... can I run off the battery and only engage it on over-run via an AC compressor clutch so it's under load only when I am braking? Maybe I should lay off the coffee.
Anecdotal, but my Dad races Super Stock and has reported a loss of performance running without an alternator.
No love for the Odyssey PC680? 13 lbs and lasts forever.
That Kinetic that Bob linked seems to be a rebadged Odyssey. Or... vice versa.
tuna55 wrote: Anecdotal, but my Dad races Super Stock and has reported a loss of performance running without an alternator.
Huh, in the world of landspeed racing it's standard procedure to not run an alternator.
kb58 wrote: No love for the Odyssey PC680? 13 lbs and lasts forever.
I ran a 680 on my dd bmw 318ti.. worked great for years
GameboyRMH wrote:tuna55 wrote: Anecdotal, but my Dad races Super Stock and has reported a loss of performance running without an alternator.Huh, in the world of landspeed racing it's standard procedure to not run an alternator.
The ignition system and fuel injection need to be up to snuff when running on 12v rather than 14v. Things that arent setup correctly in the ecu (incomplete voltage tables), or were marginal at full voltage would have a decrease in performance.
kb58 wrote: No love for the Odyssey PC680? 13 lbs and lasts forever.
The Ody is twice the price.
OK, since no one has screamed "STAY AWAY! OMG JUNK!" I think I'll order it in.
Well I mean, if its the same weight as the $30 wally world special, why wouldnt you get the $30 wally world special instead?
With these being questionably flammable, would there be any benefit to putting it in a small metal box to prevent them from catching their surroundings on fire?
Considering one of these for the Boxster, but the battery on that car is mounted in the cowl. Any idea if putting one of these in an enclosed space would be more likely to overheat the battery?
In reply to tuna55:
Electric fuel pump or high output electronic ignition? I could see a low voltage condition causing issues but not directly related to lack of alternator... due to lack of ample supply.
Maroon92 wrote: With these being questionably flammable, would there be any benefit to putting it in a small metal box to prevent them from catching their surroundings on fire? Considering one of these for the Boxster, but the battery on that car is mounted in the cowl. Any idea if putting one of these in an enclosed space would be more likely to overheat the battery?
Dry cell or vented box. I think the factory battery on that car has a vent tube.
Leafy wrote: Well I mean, if its the same weight as the $30 wally world special, why wouldnt you get the $30 wally world special instead?
It's half the weight of the lawn mower battery. 13 lbs versus 26-28 lbs. Plus this one has more cranking power than even the "big" lawnmower battery and I can lay it on it's side, putting the weight even lower.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:Maroon92 wrote: With these being questionably flammable, would there be any benefit to putting it in a small metal box to prevent them from catching their surroundings on fire? Considering one of these for the Boxster, but the battery on that car is mounted in the cowl. Any idea if putting one of these in an enclosed space would be more likely to overheat the battery?Dry cell or vented box. I think the factory battery on that car has a vent tube.
The box where the battery is is vented, but it won't receive anywhere near the airflow that an open engine compartment would.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:Maroon92 wrote: With these being questionably flammable, would there be any benefit to putting it in a small metal box to prevent them from catching their surroundings on fire? Considering one of these for the Boxster, but the battery on that car is mounted in the cowl. Any idea if putting one of these in an enclosed space would be more likely to overheat the battery?Dry cell or vented box. I think the factory battery on that car has a vent tube.
My WM lawnmower battery, based on me standing on the Walmart bathroom scale (conveniently located a couple aisles over) with and without it, was about 11#.
Check that... this looks better to me: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17907_SHURiKEN-SK-BT20.html
I had a smaller version in the swift (9 lbs). It never failed me or the guy I sold it to.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: In reply to tuna55: Electric fuel pump or high output electronic ignition? I could see a low voltage condition causing issues but not directly related to lack of alternator... due to lack of ample supply.
Yes and yes
Alright, since I have used one in the past, I ordered the 12-lb Shuriken and some terminal tops for it. $71 shipped. Should see them by Friday. Now I just have to fab up some type of bracket to hold it down.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: OK, so... if you have a race car that can turn over, start and maintain charge on a $30 motorcycle battery... my thought process jumps to: - Can I eliminate the alternator, weight and resulting load on the engine if I use a slightly larger battery than the minimum? Deep cycle perhaps? - Can I run off the battery for race length and just charge it in the paddock? If I stall - is there enough reserve to start in this scenario? - Can I adapt fast-rechargeable Lion batteries from 28v hand tools to provide fast changeover during an enduro pit stop even if they are only for maintaining operating current and not capable of starting the motor? - If I can't get away with no alternator... can I run off the battery and only engage it on over-run via an AC compressor clutch so it's under load only when I am braking? Maybe I should lay off the coffee.
Some echomodders run without an alternator. They use 2 or 3 deep cycle batteries which are charged every night. The result despite the added weight is 10% MPG gain. This will not work on any vehicle that requires 14V to run correctly. I remember an Isuzu that some how filled the engine oil with gas because the alternator died.
I have read about someone putting a AC clutch on a power steering pump so it could be run only when they was in town. Don't try this on a ford. The same thing can probably be done for an alternator.
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