We just now got the engine (5.0) out of the body shell and noticed that the metal cross over tube running from head to head behind the engine is rusted/rotted/cut.
I'm converting the engine to carb and non-electronic distributor, no computer bits and pieces at all. Is this cross over tube necessary for the engine to run correctly, or can I fit block-off plates instead?
Totally in the dark here, not sure what to do. The engine is out of an '85 Mustang.
Thanks !
T
Get some thermactor plugs. Clean out the threads back there really good, like eat from clean, and install the plugs. You can get them from Scummit in Trick Flow variety.
It's only needed for the air injection system.
Great !
Why are they threaded on the inside? Are they installed with a bolt? Wondering if a socket head bolt (with lock-tite) could be substituted for the plugs?
Thanks for the quick response!
T
mine are plugged with a bolt. no issues
5/8"-11 UNC and ~3/4" long to be approximately exact. Approximately.
Moving_Target wrote: 5/8"-11 UNC and ~3/4" long to be approximately exact. Approximately.
What he said!
If you can find allen head socket set screws in this size it makes for a clean install but simple bolts will work just as well.
I'm sure I used some bolts to plug mine WAY back in the day (in about ~'93/'94 when I was putting an '85 5.0 engine into an '80 4 cylinder car).
Mind you...this is when I was a mere inexperienced hack. Now, I'm a hack with full tenure.
Clem
The plugs are threaded on the inside because when used on the front of the head, one of the accessory bracket bolts attach there on each side. Just plug them with the proper size bolt and some thread sealer.
Superb info guys, thank you ! !
Would it be too Hillbilly to chop the tubes, crimp 'the stub closed and weld 'em on up to seal them? I think that the "look" might be sort of "who cares" cool.
TC
If I remember correctly the holes have a threaded insert in them. The threads in the insert are "Spark Plug" if you want to be really ghetto.
TeamEvil wrote: Superb info guys, thank you ! ! Would it be too Hillbilly to chop the tubes, crimp 'the stub closed and weld 'em on up to seal them? I think that the "look" might be sort of "who cares" cool. TC
that's the way most people do it, except without the fancy "weld" part..
Just went through this with a 351 in the shop. The threads in the holes in the head will be all carboned up. Didn't have a 5/8" thread chaser, but a bolt and a minute with a Dremmel cutoff wheel got me one. Used some brake clean with the new "thread chaser" and it did the trick.
I installed the Thermactor plugs using a Heli-Coil installer tool since I had one handy. I can post the part number for the plugs tomorrow if you are interested.
Installing bolts probably would be the easiest way to go.
Great, something else to wonder about; does my 1995 GT have this or not?
pres589 wrote: Great, something else to wonder about; does my 1995 GT have this or not?
If it has an air pump, yes. Otherwise, no.
In reply to Ranger50:
Mine does, yeah. Guess that's something else to check over next time I'm under the hood.
Stop in your local Fastenal store, buy a pair of 5/8"-11 coarse thread set screws, Loctite them in, and life goes on. Done this to at least a half dozen 5.0 H.O.s with no worries.
"Great, something else to wonder about . . . "
I know what you mean ! ! ! !
Every time I look at the engine it's something else weird.
Between the carb rebuild, wondering if the carb will fit, fretting over the AOD linkage on the Holley, the kick down rod, adjusting the cable to the automatic trans correctly so as not to burn it up, replacing the distributor drive gear, and now these silly plugs/bolts and cross over pipes, I'm beginning to think that the SBF isn't all that and a box of chips. NEVER had this sort of stuff going on with a GM engine.
On our lemons car we cut the tube, crimped them and welded them shut. A plate would have worked, but we just modified what was there.
Again. Thanks gang, terrific information as always !
TC
TeamEvil wrote: "Great, something else to wonder about . . . " I know what you mean ! ! ! ! Every time I look at the engine it's something else weird. Between the carb rebuild, wondering if the carb will fit, fretting over the AOD linkage on the Holley, the kick down rod, adjusting the cable to the automatic trans correctly so as not to burn it up, replacing the distributor drive gear, and now these silly plugs/bolts and cross over pipes, I'm beginning to think that the SBF isn't all that and a box of chips. NEVER had this sort of stuff going on with a GM engine.
GM engines have similar issues, but we never bother with putting 2 barrel carbs on them..
"we never bother with putting 2 barrel carbs on them . . . "
Ordinarily neither would I, but I had the carb and NEVER thought that the rebuild would turn into such crap.
The reason for the two barrel is that it was free and I had it here and the stock intake ('85 Mustang 5.0) will accept the two barrel without much fuss. I wanted to build this car (1958 MGA) using only what I have on hand, except for paint and fasteners and rebuild kits and such. An EXTREME low budget drag car. I know that lots of folks have set out to do this and some have succeeded wonderfully, but only a handful. I'm hoping to as well.
When I have something to show, other than just a pile of parts, I begin some sort of build thread. Right now I'm just cleaning and rebuilding and refurbishing what I have here, getting it ready for assembly. A pretty good plan for the Winter.
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