Hey guys, nearly completing my ford 8.8 swap. I've searched around and found some interesting mods to do to this differential (3.73 gear, LSD track loc) and am wondering about track day use what would be best (car is a 1985 Celica, stripped. Weighs ~2600lbs with 220lbs of me in it.)
There's the OEM setup for the LSD disks. Clutch-spacer-spacer-clutch-spacer-spacer,etc.
then the harder locking setup (I've inly seen this commented on by drag mustang guys and the setup is C-P-C-P-C-etc.
Then There is a mod where you take the "S" spring out of the diff and it makes the setup more of a "1 way" LSD. So it's an open diff under no power, and 2wheel fury under power.
What works better for an ~occasional~ track car? Also, occasional autox.
The carbon pack is cheap so that's a shoe in.
Wondering about under steer here
To keep understeer to a minimum, I'd probably pack the clutches with the standard order initially. And I'd keep the s-spring in (1.5 way diffs are smoother to drive than 1 way, IMO). But make sure you use the Mustang s-spring, not the stiffer F-150 s-spring.
You can always change the clutch order later if you find you need it to lock up tighter, but making it tighter than needed will add more understeer.
FWIW, Ford also had an OE Torsen that was offered on some of the Ranger FX4 models in the early 2000's (for sure...maybe later).
Good to know. I might pick one up. Don't torsens act stupid when you lift a rear tire? As in, they spin that tire in the air?
i built mine for severe duty and while its never seen a track it drags the inside tire during a tight turn much like a full on welded diff.
Trackmouse wrote:
Good to know. I might pick one up. Don't torsens act stupid when you lift a rear tire? As in, they spin that tire in the air?
Yeah, most torsens will do this. Some have a bit of preload to prevent it, but if you're worried about lifting a tire, sticking with the clutch type will probably have better results.
Another option for a helical gear ('Torsen') style limited slip is the Detroit Truetrac.
As opposed to FWD cars lifting rear tires, if a RWD car lifts a wheel it typically happens on the front end...Do you expect to have yours lift a rear tire instead?
Stick axles cars with bindy rear suspensions will lift an inside tire, if not all the way then at least enough to cause traction problems.
One thing people noted when torque arms started to get popular for Fox-bodies was that the clutches in the rear diffs would last a LOT longer. The tires were staying planted on the ground, so the driveshaft torque was going through both tires instead of one tire and the clutch packs.
This also means you don't need as aggressive of a diff to put the same power down, so you can get better turn-in, so you can go softer on the suspension, so you get more grip... There are a lot of cumulative effects from fixing a simple problem instead of working around it.
Driven5 wrote:
Another option for a helical gear ('Torsen') style limited slip is the Detroit Truetrac.
As opposed to FWD cars lifting rear tires, if a RWD car lifts a wheel it typically happens on the front end...Do you expect to have yours lift a rear tire instead?
It currently does on low speed, tight radius, banked corners. It threw me off big time, was not expecting that! The engine revved high but no acceleration was experienced. The second corner was the same type but different direction, it did the same thing.
I was wondering if it was the panhard setup.
The panhard bar could be an issue. The bar should be level and the lower the better as it helps define the rear roll center. You need to research this to get all the info on setting up a car with a panhard bar.
