You can always use a resistor but the best way is to simply use the right kind of flasher unit. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&node=15684181&keywords=led+turn+signal+flasher+relay&tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=37308646625&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5397215810411039457&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4vsfduvkhn_b
To be clear, the resistor I was proposing is not a big hot load resistor, but a change to the circuit in the flasher electronics. You basically recalibrate the flasher's idea of what a blown light bulb feels like. It's not possible in the NB flashers but it's quite easy in the NA.
Warren v wrote: I hear Exomotive should have a truckload of bodywork sometime next week. Tophat spacers are designed, but aren't ready to release as a product until we get them from manufacturing.
What's the suspension in this picture?
http://www.apexi-usa.com/n1-exv-dampers-1990-2005-mazda-miata/
Springrate on those bad boys is 450 lbs/in front and 335 lbs/in rear, which I think will work nicely for a v8 street car. We might swap out the rears for something softer after some testing. The build quality and finish is excellent, which is important on a show car like XP-5.
Like I said, we haven't driven on them yet, so I can't say anything about them, but Exomotive is already set up to be a dealer. I'm sure if you bug Kevin he'll sell you some now.
Keith i have the resistor will solder in tonight. Mines a bit different than hyperflash, its fully goofy probably because entire car LED now.
thestig wrote: They posted the red one in the prismatic powders gallery. It looks nice. I can't wait for mine to show up so I can send it out to powder coat. Lot's of people are going with bright colors. I know at least two chassis will be shocker yellow over super chrome. What I really want to see is one of these completely finished with the bodywork. Especially with a color besides black for the body.
I am going with Very Grey for the frame with RAL2008-bright red orange for the body work (unless the Carbon Fiber bodywork upgrade is a "reasonable" cost). I was inspired by my Trek District . The grey will be somewhere between the frame and the sprocket color. Its pretty close to the color of the belt guard. The orange should be dead on. I am chassis number 96 so its got to be getting close. I started the tear down of my donor tonight. Very excited to get this project going!
ImprobableConstruct wrote: I was inspired by my Trek District .
Heh. I want a carbon body with subtle red highlights. Just like my Specialized Roubaix 
Keith Tanner wrote: To be clear, the resistor I was proposing is not a big hot load resistor, but a change to the circuit in the flasher electronics. You basically recalibrate the flasher's idea of what a blown light bulb feels like. It's not possible in the NB flashers but it's quite easy in the NA.
I had read about this but didn't know it only applys to NAs. What do I need to do to make LED turns work on my NB donor? Grab an NA blinker setup?
read the link i put up on previous page & contact people there. Its been done just a lot more intailed. NC still not solved i think. Im running stick on motorcycle LED units causing extra issues most likely due to volume of LEDs.
If you want to redneck a solution without buying a load resistor, you can keep the original bulb in the circuit. A load resistor is a better solution: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Install-Load-Resistors-for-LED-Turn-Signal-/
When I get the chance to build my own Exocet, I'm just going to wire up a pushbutton panel next to the shifter and have it set to flash 5 or so times with a button press, no need for column cancel. It'll just be a latch and a 555 timer.
Guess I could leave the stock bulb in the circuit. Just mount it on the side of the chassis like a Japanese vehicle side indicator.
ImprobableConstruct wrote:thestig wrote: They posted the red one in the prismatic powders gallery. It looks nice. I can't wait for mine to show up so I can send it out to powder coat. Lot's of people are going with bright colors. I know at least two chassis will be shocker yellow over super chrome. What I really want to see is one of these completely finished with the bodywork. Especially with a color besides black for the body.I am going with Very Grey for the frame with RAL2008-bright red orange for the body work (unless the Carbon Fiber bodywork upgrade is a "reasonable" cost). I was inspired by my Trek District . The grey will be somewhere between the frame and the sprocket color. Its pretty close to the color of the belt guard. The orange should be dead on. I am chassis number 96 so its got to be getting close. I started the tear down of my donor tonight. Very excited to get this project going!
I am chassis #86 and should be shipping any day now. I'll powdercoat the frame gloss black locally, and the panels will be RAL 2003 pastel orange.
Anyone thought of just cleaning up the chassis and welds (they are the work of a craftsman/artist) and clear coating the frame. Which should make future mods and repairs Much easier??? Plus that raw metal look...
I picked shocker yellow mainly for safety reasons. Hard to miss a bright yellow car on the road.
mrvwcastner wrote: Keith i have the resistor will solder in tonight. Mines a bit different than hyperflash, its fully goofy probably because entire car LED now.
My NA is 100% LED including headlights. No weird behavior. So your problem is more likely something like a missing ground.
Rubber! We're running an effective -26 offset in the rear and -20 in the front. Yes, negative. Some of that is to clear the frame and fenders, some is to clear the brakes. Wheels are 15x9 Traklites from Flyin' Miata with 235/50-15 Toyos.
I'm on the same page Greg. I want to be seen, I also love the color. I can't wait for my chassis. Hopefully it will ship before Xmas. It will make a nice present to myself.
MX5Speed wrote: Anyone thought of just cleaning up the chassis and welds (they are the work of a craftsman/artist) and clear coating the frame. Which should make future mods and repairs Much easier??? Plus that raw metal look... that was myexact thoughts after cleaning for paint. Keith yes grounds ?
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SS%2D3A
thanks warren your idea got me looking.
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SS%2D25
or better
Keith Tanner wrote: Rubber! We're running an effective -26 offset in the rear and -20 in the front. Yes, negative. Some of that is to clear the frame and fenders, some is to clear the brakes. Wheels are 15x9 Traklites from Flyin' Miata with 235/50-15 Toyos.
What does the added width do to the suspension geometry in the front? Any negatives to going wider?
Changing resistor in relay fixed hiperflash
my gremlin still exists
does anyone have good diagram of lighting for blinkers & tails?
Warren, will you and Kevin be at SEMA this coming week?
mrvwcastner wrote: Changing resistor in relay fixed hiperflash
What harness are you using? From my experiences, most intermittent electrical issues are from a bad ground, a loose connector, or a chaffed wire.
In reply to mrvwcastner:
Kevin will be at SEMA, he's setting up appointments through Info@Exomotive.com
jwagner wrote: What does the added width do to the suspension geometry in the front? Any negatives to going wider?
That will change the roll center geometry slightly and increase the scrub radius. The scrub radius increase means more steering effort and feedback. It will also decrease the effective motion ratio on the coilover by a little bit, as the contact patch now has more leverage on the spring. A lot of the negatives here are offset by reduced weight, even at 400lbs heavier than a normal Exocet.
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