In reply to thestig:
This is putting me in an awkward position, but, here you go:
2.2" driver, 1.8" passenger.
In reply to thestig:
This is putting me in an awkward position, but, here you go:
2.2" driver, 1.8" passenger.
Thank you sir. Hopefully all is well in the exomotive world. :)
Stig ... how did you find out about this change on your #98 chassis? I have #110 (still to be built, of course), and asked Kevin at Exo about this change via email - no response.
I am not 98. I'm 102. However there is a build thread on the MeV forums with the new tunnel (chassis 98). I assumed all would have this going forward but am unsure now after warrens "this is awkward" post.
Am I right that I saw Danny George sitting in an exocet with an LS in it?
I have chassis #98, there is now an issue with the exhaust not having enough clearance with the new tranny tunnel. Check out my build pics for reference.
http://mevowners.proboards.com/thread/5698/lukes-build-west-virginia-chassis?page=8&scrollTo=63235
Also, what is the small notch in the welded in tranny cover for? Behind the gear shifter, maybe clearance for an AUTO?
I am now allowed to talk about the new tunnel. 
The notch is covered up by the aluminum transmission tunnel under normal applications, but for custom swaps, it may be useful for shifters mounted further to the rear (like a GTO T56). Just one of those things that doesn't hurt, but may be helpful to someone down the line.
It was decided that the new tunnel would be part of the standard kit due to the increase in safety and ergonomics. There are a couple tradeoffs, one being that the NB header flange needs to be moved by an exhaust shop (a quick job), and the stock NA catalytic converter will not fit. The easy solution is to simply convert to an NA exhaust if you buy an aftermarket header and exhaust. NA header/midpipe flanges should fit in most cases, but exhaust production variations may require a bit of grinding in some cases. Sorry about that complication, but the NB flange is right where many would want the front corner of many seats.
The update isn't just localized to the steel tunnel, all the aluminum panels have been redesigned to be a complete system. Riveting should be a little easier, and the center tunnel is now stressed. The "tabs" on the back of the aluminum tunnel should be bent upwards a little by the end user on final installation, be sure to put a couple sheets of paper between the aluminum cover and the steel tunnel to prevent scratches.
And lhintze, the tab on the back firewall is free for you to use for anything you see fit. It's a seatbelt reel mount to maintain compatibility for those who insist on three point belts. It's left in so we can use the same rear aluminum bulkheads on every car.
What about the down pipes used on the FMII? Will they need modification too?
Are those holes for the parking brake eye spy?
Thank you sir, I thought it would be an easy fix with the header as well.
The new year price increase should probably be acknowledged. Prices for the kits have gone up by $300. Fenders are now a $500 option instead of being standard. The new pricing (without fenders) is:
Base: $6999
Sport: $7499
Race: $8299
Greg_E wrote: What about the down pipes used on the FMII? Will they need modification too? Are those holes for the parking brake eye spy?
Use an NA downpipe, from the sounds of things. Just request that at the time of your order if you have an NB donor.
New pricing is only applicable for those who haven't placed a deposit yet, correct?
Correct, new orders only.
Hey guys, I got a few emails about the body of the car I am about to get rid of but have been weary to respond due to a this question. Do I need to cut out the door jamb vin stickers and vin plate on the firewall? How do I prove to anyone that the rollerskate I have goes to the title I have?
Warren I may be in touch about some body work, I have been saving my penny's!
There's a VIN on the engine and the transmission.
Just for 'grins', I kept the VIN plate that was riveted onto the dashboard plastic. However, I left the VIN stamp that was on the firewall of the (now disposed) body shell. No idea in Ohio what I may need for proof of parts sourcing when it comes time to register my Exocet, but I think - based on having the VIN plate noted above that matches the VIN plates on both the transmission and on the engine, plus the title for the donor car - I should be covered. I hope ....
Nice week in NorCal (70's), been daily'n the Exo. Who says you can't go to business meetings in one:
Warren, is there a reason the precut hole in the new tranny cover is not centered? Not a big deal but I'm going going to have to open it up on the top and right since my shifter is directly in the middle.
In reply to lhintze:
Hmm, it shouldn't require modification, it was shaped to cover the various Miata transmissions through the years as well as F-Body T56 turrets. The tunnel itself is asymmetric and it leads to an optical illusion, it's not as shifted as it looks. Would you mind sending me a PM/email with a picture of your shifter in the hole? Also, do you think your PPF brace might have gotten bent in a previous crash?
SteadFast wrote: Nice week in NorCal (70's), been daily'n the Exo. Who says you can't go to business meetings in one:
As I sit in the snow/slush mess, pictures like this make me all kinds of happy.
Tranny is in neutral ('99 5 speed)
Luke, can you do me a favor? Can you see if the stock rubber shift boot (not the leather piece) fits over that hole and doesn't hang off the sides?
Here you go, fits nicely.
Yes it does! Thank you sir!
In reply to lhintze:
Hey lhintze, can you run a string or straight edge from the middle of the front bulkhead/firewall to the middle of the rear bulkhead? Your shifter should be right on that string, definitely within a half inch or so. My very straight-framed street car has the shifter about 1/8" to the right from absolute chassis center, as measured from multiple points.
The shifter hole is centered in the chassis, it just looks off-center due to the shape of the tunnel.
If your PPF brace-to-trans bolts have ever been loosened, that's probably what's contributing to the bent driveline. You should crack them loose and see if you can re-align the shifter. If you don't have enough range, loosen the diff-to-PPF-brace bolts too.
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