Help with hung up rotor

So a simple 4 wheel pad/rotor replacement on my '09 Civic has turned into a bit of an 8 hour nightmare. The brakes are original, I have 135k miles and I live in Canada. So they're pretty rusted on.
I managed to get the rotor unstuck from the hub using the threaded holes and a bolt/nut in the caliper bracket. I try to pull it off, and it seems to be hung up on something. It's away from the hub, but won't come off. Must be stuck on the studs somehow. Any suggestions how to get it off? I'm prepared to try to pound out the studs, or try to cut off the rotor with a grinder, but I'm hoping there's a better solution. I can't quite get the rotor off enough to get a jaw puller in the i.d. of the rotor, and the bolts I used to jack off the rotor just spin now.

Front or rear? If rear, is there an drum parking brake? Pics would be helpful.

In reply to Timeormoney: Sorry, front. I'm at work, so I'll have to get pics later tonight. But the rotor will pull forward from the hub until it gets about 1/4" past the edge of the hub bore. I can fit a screwdriver into the gap, but prying doesn't work and there isn't enough room for a puller. There is no play left or right between the rotor and the studs like there is when you put a new rotor on.

Have you tried a Puller? That said when I dealt with this on multiple vehicles in the family fleet, I've had to more or less cut the rotersin half to get them off the hub. Sawzall if you have one, otherwise a line of drilled holes and a hack saw or BFH.

I can't get a puller in the center hole, and don't have a big enough one to grab the outside. I have a sawzall and an angle grinder, but was thinking it'd be easier to pound out the studs than try and cut it off.

It's past the hub, I can pull it off until there is only about 1/2" of thread visible on the studs, then it sticks.

I use a hammer just rotate the rotor and tap it off squarely. id 10oz doesn't work I have been know to use a 4 lb sledge. Penetrating oil helps too.

In reply to stan_d: I hammered on all 4 for at least an hour each with a 25lb plate tamper. with tons of pb blaster over 2 days. Finally broke one free using bolts in the holes in the face and in the caliper mounts, but won't come off the whole way.

One of the members here organized a puller using a receiver hitch, a come along and a pickup truck. maybe someone could find that thread?

I could see doing that at this point. My e36 has a receiver. I'd need some come alongs a little better than my dollar store ones, but that's ok.
And forget using the ratchet action, I'll just make it tight and hit the gas It'll come off then.

That is a good idea, if I do it the proper way.

I could see the truck method dragging the car off the stands. If the rotor is partially off could you tap the holes for a bigger bolt to push them off ? Something fine threaded. I have to ask the obvious you do have the caliper mounting bracket off ? Right?

In reply to stan_d: I won't actually try to drag it sideways. It'd end up with a) car yanked off stands, b) rotor in rear window of pull car or c) suspension/axle ripped off the car. I could try re-tapping the holes, but I'd have to buy a tap/die set.

The caliper bracket is off, I got the screws as well.

Always ask the obvious. 9/10 somebody forgot the 1st or easiest step.

The rotor has rust inside the bell, captivating it to the hub.

Prybar is your friend. Or use your biggest hammer to break the friction surface off of the bell. (This is the only way 4wd F-150 rotors seem to come off. Some Hyundais too)

use the lug nuts to get the rotor back against the bub. Take a file and file the corrosion away from the center of the hub, where the center hole in the rotor fits around. I think you have corrosion there preventing the rotor from coming off.

In reply to DrBoost:

I can push it back against the hub. I have the wheel back on now (hate leaving car on stands). I can pull the rotor forward far enough that I can see between the rotor and hub, and can get a screwdriver in there to pry a bit (snap) but nothing bigger like a small pry bar or a gear puller.

I'll post pics this evening.

Put long bolts in the puller holes, grease them well, tighten them, THEN hammer on it.

Been there, done that... Lots of aggressive wailing with a sledge, enough that I broke off pieces of rotor.

The worst one was an aforementioned 4WD F150.

Here's a photo. Tried one from the back, but you can't see anything.

Air chisel?

Jeez man, grab the biggest hammer you have and beat the rotor like it just insulted your momma. Either you will break the bell apart so you can remove it, or the beating will make the rust fall off and the rotor will come off.

Either way, frequent and vigorous application of a hammer is the methodology required.

And I do mean beat it. Don't tap tap tap. Give that sucker full baseball-bat swings and follow through. Hit a spot six inches behind the rotor, if you get my drift. Beat the sucker.

Maybe it's just my eyes but does it look like the studs are slightly bent, preventing the rotor from sliding straight off of them?

Yeah, you got it that far off, time to beat it till you can't lift your arms. I've had to do that with a 5 lb sledge while standing (you get more oomph when you can stand under it) and still had to whack it 5 or 6 times!!

Drive a screwdriver in the gap with a hammer.

I've been using a 25lb tamper to hit it. After I broke my 3lb hammer. Arms are very sore. Drove a screwdriver in and then broke it. 30 minutes non stop tonight. Neighbors are starting to stare giving up until Wednesday. Then I'm just gonna drive studs out till it comes off. Hope the back two come easier. Thanks guys. Next time anti sieze ftw.

mainlandboy wrote: Maybe it's just my eyes but does it look like the studs are slightly bent, preventing the rotor from sliding straight off of them? I'm seeing the same thing. Either way, I'd press the rotor back on, cut the studs off, and start over. It's time to replace those anyhow.

Also, they make OD pullers that big for removing drums and rotors. I think parts stores might even rent them.