Wait, are you trying to hit the rotor OFF or are you beating it in the ON direction?
Beat it ON. The idea is that you will either break the bell off of the rotor, or you will loosen the rust in the backside of the bell that is holding the rotor on.
Trying to hit the rotor in the off direction is an exercise in futility. All that does is wedge it on further.
On when it was completely stuck. Both now that it is loose.
If the rears give you issue just remove hub and rotor and press it out. Just went through this with my sentra fronts came off with sleds and had to press rear.
Is it just me or are there 4 small holes around the bell that might hold a attachment screw for the rotor? I can see three holes open and a forth (right side of picture) that is plugged. Is there a screw behind that mud?
Couple of strategic cuts with grinder and a good hit with a sledge hammer and they crack in half and come off.
Now (and this is very important) If there is a hub behind it beating it with a hammer can damage a hub. You are better off getting a new hub and and rotor and remove the two on the car as a unit and replace with new parts. The frount hubs and rotors on my expedition do this all the time and this is the easy button solution.
itsarebuild wrote: Is it just me or are there 4 small holes around the bell that might hold a attachment screw for the rotor? I can see three holes open and a forth (right side of picture) that is plugged. Is there a screw behind that mud?
There are 4 holes. 2 for attachment screws, which I drilled out, and 2 for bolts to push the rotor off. One has a broken bolt from trying to push the rotor off, the other broke it loose from the hub, then stripped.
There is rust built up inside the rotor, where it slides over the hub, this is what's "caatching" you up. I deal with this daily. Either cut it and split it, or keep beating till it comes off. Where are you located? If your not too far I might be able to help
I'm in NS. Thanks for the offer though. I'll cut it off tomorrow night, or set the car on fire. Either way, problem solved.
Scary. I'll be sure to check my rotors for rust buildup under the "hat" whenever I remove them now. There usually is a ring of raised rust behind the hub face.
This rotor will not tap off from behind? Take the caliper off and hang it from the strut and tap the rotor (from inside driving outward) with a mallet. Turn the rotor 1/8 of a turn and whack it again. Repeat until the rotor comes off.
bigev007 wrote: I'm in NS. Thanks for the offer though. I'll cut it off tomorrow night, or set the car on fire. Either way, problem solved.
Video at 7?
Well, no video, but can do photos in the morning. Had to cut off most of the face of the rotor hat, but then it was still stuck on the studs. So cut the studs off too. They were rusty and some threads had gotten hammered anyway. Back one came off with 20 good blows. Of course the pads need some grinding on the ears.
Wow, I've never had a rotor I couldn't get off with a dozen hammer whacks. Glad you got it off.
I am not sure if I should be relieved or disappointed that nobody made the obvious comments involving beating and/or whacking, and the direction thereof.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4XCZfkGF8k
Boy howdy, I've never seen so much a-whackin'.
Lol. Are we seriously not doing 'phrasing'?
Outlaw country!
I've cut them in half with a thin blade on a disc grinder...
http://www.amazon.com/s?rh=n%3A256194011%2Cp_item_diameter_string-bin%3A7+inches
In reply to Streetwiseguy: That's pretty much what I did. Tried to just cut around stud holes, but ended up nicking the studs. So between rusty, ground and smashed studs, I figured they were getting replaced anyway.
The glory of living in rust country. Congrats on your success.
In reply to Streetwiseguy: It's soooo nice working on my e36. It's a southern US car, then undercoated and not winter driven since it came up here. It's oily as hell (even the CD changer has undercoat on it), but even the rear camber adjusters came loose nice and easy. Took me 4 hours to do the entire suspension on that car. 10+ hours and I'm not done the Civic brakes.
Still seems odd. Be curious to see if it goes back together with less effort(studs through the rotors). Any chance you have aftermarket wheels on that car that bent the studs?
In reply to sachilles:
The opposite side went on just fine, and the rear went on ok. Both fought me 90% as much as this one.
I do have aftermarket wheels, so it is possible they bent. I do use hubcentric rings.
This is why I put some anti seize on the hub face when I do rotors. Since I have started doing that I have not had to break out the hammer.
In reply to Rusted_Busted_Spit: After breaking studs last fall putting snow tires on and now this, I'll be putting lots on everything. These are the OEM brakes. Normally they'd wear out after 60k so not a big deal. When they start lasting over 130k it apparently is really bad.
Antisieze all the things!
Apexcarver wrote:
Well, not the faces of the rotor.
I agree, though. In addition to a story like this, I had a wheel get stuck to a rotor. I drove the thing up and down the driveway, turning lock to lock, with the lugs only down a turn, and nothing.
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