Any chance it has passive and not active tire pressure monitoring? Those typically need a manual reset. On my Buick, you did that by plugging a fuse into an empty part of the fuse block and turning the key on. My VW has a push button for this inside the glove compartment. There's typically some notes on the reset procedure, but it can take a bit of digging through the owner's manual - it's sometimes in an unexpected spot.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to Streetwiseguy :
One thing I do like is the side camera some (not all) Hondas have.
Turn on your right turn signal, the backup camera screen comes up, but with a blind spot camera mounted to the right mirror.
I'd love for a way to have remote cameras on a trailer. That'd be sweet.
Friend of mine just bought a 5th wheel camper and had the wireless camera system installed. It requires the marker lights to be on since that's how they power the cameras, but there's one at the rear and one at each side. This system doesn't integrate with the F350's display, but there's a monitor that sits on the dash. As he rolls down the road, he can see behind the trailer and alongside - it's pretty sweet, actually.
alfadriver said:matthewmcl said:In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
As long as the trailer isn't too long, you can run a wireless backup on your trailer.
That is a painful proposition, actually. I may try again with a specific company, but I've not had good luck finding a good wireless camera to work. The idea, though, is a very solid one. I see that many modern trailers have back up cameras installed on them.
I installed a three camera system on my trailer, a wide-view backup-style camera mounted above the door pointed down, and two narrower view ones mounted high on the each side, pointing backwards down the length of the trailer. It's super useful for backing the trailer up into the side yard. Originally they were wired, but when I bought the new truck I switched them to wireless and it actually works even better than the wired connections did.
I power the cameras with the trailer battery, using a relay off the power coming back from the truck to switch them on and off.
I've had experiences with a few different TPMS systems now, and they were all different in levels of operation and annoyance:
Subaru: Only one set of sensors could be registered per vehicle at a time. If you had a dedicated set of wheels with sensors for something else (like winter driving), you'd have to take it to the dealer to have them pair the sensors to the car and unpair the normal ones. The light would constantly flash if you didn't, which was distracting. Solution for many was to tape a piece of electrical tape over the light.
Mazda: They worked fine, when the sensors weren't falling apart! Wife's 2010 Mazda 3 would eat sensors. They would literally crumble apart during regular driving. They were manufactured by Ford, and anything with those sensors would do that. Fusions and Foci also had this issue. Eventually, all 4 sensors were replaced with aftermarket units, and the problem went away. I'd hope by now all the bad sensors would have failed and been replaced. When they worked, they worked fine. My 2012 Mazda 3 did not have the crumbling issue. If they dipped below 28PSI, the light would go on, and you would need to fill to at least 32PSI and drive for a bit for the light to go off.
Kia: So far, these are the best ones I've had. They operate like the Mazda ones (minus the crumbly part) and you get a display that tells you exactly how many PSI each tire has. There's no warnings unless they go under 28PSI. I like being able to tell how many PSI each tire has without getting out the gauge.
In reply to codrus (Forum Supporter) :
If I had thought ahead, and put a wire from the house battery to the light location, that would have worked. Alas, all I have is the running lights, and with the distances, it's at 10.8V- which would not power a camera. Yet- I'm also looking into DC-DC converters to deal with that. Another thing I should try is a larger gauge wire extension- which I may do, too.
I also tried a solar powered one, but it wasn't working more often than it was working- so I sent it back.
In reply to Tony Sestito :
If there are any manufacturer systems that can be trained for more than one set of sensors, I'm unaware.
Subaru is slightly annoying that sensors can only be learned through the DLC, but the sensors are easy enough to clone for a second set of wheels.
I don't mind modern cars, but there are some manufacturers that make the nanny devices more intrusive than others.
alfadriver said:If I had thought ahead, and put a wire from the house battery to the light location, that would have worked. Alas, all I have is the running lights, and with the distances, it's at 10.8V- which would not power a camera. Yet- I'm also looking into DC-DC converters to deal with that. Another thing I should try is a larger gauge wire extension- which I may do, too.
Random thought -- if you swapped out the bulbs in the trailer running lights for LEDs, would that reduce the current draw enough for the camera to run? Could probably test that just by pulling the bulbs?
In reply to codrus (Forum Supporter) :
Already leds. Well, except for the brake/indicator- the brightness difference didn't light my candle enough- so I may add LED panels instead of bulbs. But the run to the indicator lights where I would get power is pretty much on it's own.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to Tony Sestito :
If there are any manufacturer systems that can be trained for more than one set of sensors, I'm unaware.
Subaru is slightly annoying that sensors can only be learned through the DLC, but the sensors are easy enough to clone for a second set of wheels.
I don't know if it's true, but I've read the new BRZ/GT86 are supposed to support two sets of sensors.
I generally like newer cars. They are cleaner, faster, safer, more reliable, and with more amenities. Of course that comes at the cost of weight and increased consumable cost.
z31maniac said:Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to Tony Sestito :
If there are any manufacturer systems that can be trained for more than one set of sensors, I'm unaware.
Subaru is slightly annoying that sensors can only be learned through the DLC, but the sensors are easy enough to clone for a second set of wheels.
I don't know if it's true, but I've read the new BRZ/GT86 are supposed to support two sets of sensors.
I generally like newer cars. They are cleaner, faster, safer, more reliable, and with more amenities. Of course that comes at the cost of weight and increased consumable cost.
I think Toyota can do two sets sometimes.. Maybe there is a cold weather package that includes it.
Honda doesn't use pressure sensors anymore. They listen to the harmonics of the tire, or some weird E36 M3, and there is a process to reset built into the car.
In reply to Streetwiseguy :
Our 2018 Mazda 3 literally just has a button you press to reset them.
tpms on the Rio's apparently self learn as long as they are OEM sensors. Wife's car and my car we swapped wheels. after 60 miles they reset and are reading correctly. I thought that was awesome.
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