In car camera problems and questions

So, I needed an in-car camera. My Flip HD was working just fine, but I wanted a separate audio input so I could patch the intercom into the car. Turns out there are not many HD cameras that have this without spending huge amounts of money.

I finally decided on a Sony HDR-CX160. Optical image stabilization, audio in, both onboard memory and a slot for an SD card. I've mounted it on an IO Port rollbar mount, the same one I've used for years.

I'm getting a terrible image. Lots of image jitter. I've tried running with and without a wide angle adapter, making the appropriate change in the camera settings each time. I've tried running the image stabilization in both the standard and aggressive settings as well as off. But the picture is all over the place. I can't return the camera because it's been opened.

Any ideas or suggestions? Anyone want to buy a low mileage camcorder? Perfect for shooting video of cats or kids, not so much if you have a more high octane lifestyle.

I recall using the baby brother of that model (the blue one) and it would jump all over the place even on a tripod...

a quick look and it appears that it uses optical stabilization (like nikon/canon lenses)... and just isn't up to controlling the lens in a high vibration envornment.... http://forum.traqmate.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2196

if you only wanted to use this toy for in car it seems you could easily rewire the flip to add an audio jack...

Wish I'd found that before I ordered the damn thing. Thanks.

I'm trying to avoid homebrew wiring setups. I need 100% uptime. So I'd rather not be cracking cases open.

Looks like the Kodak Zi8 might be the solution. Solid state, external mic, good image and I can get a refurb for less than 20% of the price of the crap Sony.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sK9dUuu5_Kk

Doesn't the GoPro HeroHD have an audio port?

I believe them to be the best in the industry for ID:10Ts like me.

Just checked, no audio port but engineered for no wind buffeting.

http://gopro.com/cameras/hd-motorsports-hero-camera/

High-density foam padding around the mount, and if needed, also around the camera. It acts, in many cases, to absorb those high frequency vibrations that upset the image. Try it before moving on to another camera and more $$. A hard mount, (head of a tripod bolted to the roll bar, and the camera attached to the tripod head, will almost always result in the vibration you describe--unless it's one of those high buck cameras and lenses mentioned earlier. Try a soft mount: foam around roll bar, mount clamped to the foam, and foam between the camera body and a rollbar/cage--something solid in the car. It also will reduce the "pendulum" effect of a camera at the end of a mount.

The problem is the camera, not the mount. The mount's proven, and includes a poly bushing. Same car, same mount, different cameras:

Canon DV http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbYfOROgXDc
Flip http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPWTZ9XnLEE

I put the Sony in that same location and the picture is basically unusable.

John Brown wrote: Doesn't the GoPro HeroHD have an audio port? I believe them to be the best in the industry for ID:10Ts like me. Just checked, no audio port but engineered for no wind buffeting. http://gopro.com/cameras/hd-motorsports-hero-camera/

nope no audio Port HOWEVER if you buy the skeleton housing you can use a spare set of ear bud and tape one over the Mic port. thats how i plan on mine for next race

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The problem is the CMOS sensor. I have several friends who bought HD cameras with CMOS sensors to use in their cars. They had identical problems. A couple of them were Sonys. One bought a different brand because they had problems but his also had a CMOS and the same problem.

According to another thread on that traqmate forum, it's the optical stabilizer. That makes sense, because it really looks like something that's suspended is ricocheting around.

Regardless, I've found a solution that works and I've seen video of it working in my exact application. I've learned my lesson with this one (not sure what it is, but I learned something) and I'll be putting it up for resale if I can't convince the vendor to take it back.

Canoe attack!

is there a way to shut off the OS all together?

A few years ago I sold my i/o port camera mount to a buddy. I had used it for a couple of years with no problems, he put his Sony camera on it and as soon as he dumped the clutch the camera shut off. Every time. We fiddled wih different cameras, only the Sony did it. Weird.

FWIW, I recently bought a Race Optics camera, that thing is great. It does both 1080 and 720. It doesn't know the meaning of the word 'vibration' and it has a separate microphone jack. I couldn't say for sure if it's compatible with what you want to do, though.

donalson wrote: is there a way to shut off the OS all together?

It would not seem so. There's an option in the menu, but that doesn't help. You can tell when it's hand-held but not in the car.

I do have to admit that it will take nice smooth video on full zoom when hand-held. It has a bit of trouble coping with a nice smooth pan, turning it into light unsteadiness of the subject. It just can't deal with vibration as opposed to shakyhands.

I had the same "dump the clutch, the camera shuts off" thing happen three times with this camera too! Huh.

I'm currently using a Contour. I'd recommend a Go Pro Hero.

Here is my recent experiences with in car video: http://blog.miataracer.com/2011/06/video-systems-go-pro-hero-or-contour-or.html

Good luck.

Well that's interesting. I also had nasty vibration issues in Miata #1 when mounting a camera to my roll bar with the I/O Port mount. I've heard of a lot of Miata drivers with the same problem. Yes, I know you said it's not your mount, and your videos (which I thoroughly enjoy) prove that it CAN work with the right camera.

That said, I did fix my own particular problem with a homemade camera mount that reduced vibration tremendously. It mounted the camera right on the bar, rather than through all those interesting arms and angles that make the I/O Port mount so awesome and flexible.

I just got the traqmate system, and have a similar problem with my camera. We autox on a bumpy parking lot, and you can hear something rattling on the audio, but not when you're in the car. The camera has been cranky with the system, too, not always working properly.

GoPro isn't an option because of the lack of audio input.

I'm going with the Kodak, in large part because I've seen proof that this particular camera is proven in my application. The price doesn't hurt my feelings either. I'll test it out and post the results.

I tried a Cannon high 8 with image stabilizer back when they were the cats ass...I found at one rpm i could bounds the head off the tape then would get the audio fine then a shaky picture then higher up just fine video again. now use go-pro and love it.

Sneaky relevant canoe