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RevRico
RevRico SuperDork
6/18/17 11:01 a.m.

I used to get it from my commercial electrical supplier if you're having trouble finding it.

We used it to put bases in for sidewalk lights.

I think our brand was redhead or Red Head, after the fastener type.

Had maybe an hour from the time we opened a tube before everything was solid.

turtl631
turtl631 Reader
6/18/17 6:12 p.m.

Anyone put a two post in a garage with a 10' ceiling? That's what I'm working with and it seems marginal. It's just drywall ceiling with attic above so I guess I could cut some holes for the top of the posts. I have a 220v run going to the site already and plenty of space on the sides. When I finished out this garage I stopped at lift, compressor, and floor. Costs started really adding up and we'll probably move within five years so I didn't want to go too crazy with it. The compressor I can do without (got a mini one for tires and blasting stuff out) and the bare concrete floor is okay, but the lift would really be sweet.

glenzo654
glenzo654 New Reader
6/18/17 8:00 p.m.

FYI guys lifts dont have to be installed indoors (obviously thats the best way but...) Ive had a lift in my driveway next to my shop for three yrs now on cape cod with no issues I have a 24x40 carriage style garage with 8 foot ceilings so without a serious remodel a lift inside was not an option A lift was the best thing i have added to date and use it for anything and everything I have had a concrete driveway for 17 yrs now so installation was a breeze I bought two lifts at the same time used for $1500 for both one went to my friends shop in NH I made a control cover out of a 5 gal bucket with a cutout to keep the weather out and three winters on the cape without an issue glenn

nutherjrfan
nutherjrfan Dork
6/18/17 9:10 p.m.

In reply to glenzo654: That's awesome. I first saw an outside lift on GMG and thought well it's Texas but it does rain there too. Garage's are mighty expensive in the first place and if you have somewhere to store your tools safely it would be a poor mans solution. Depends on your neighbors too.

WonkoTheSane
WonkoTheSane Dork
6/18/17 9:16 p.m.
turtl631 wrote: Anyone put a two post in a garage with a 10' ceiling? That's what I'm working with and it seems marginal. It's just drywall ceiling with attic above so I guess I could cut some holes for the top of the posts. I have a 220v run going to the site already and plenty of space on the sides. When I finished out this garage I stopped at lift, compressor, and floor. Costs started really adding up and we'll probably move within five years so I didn't want to go too crazy with it. The compressor I can do without (got a mini one for tires and blasting stuff out) and the bare concrete floor is okay, but the lift would really be sweet.

You'll be crouching a bit, but with short cars like Miatas, it would be okay if you can get it up full height. My ceiling is 10.5', but because I had to chop the one side down a bit, it maxes out at 5'6" to the miata frame rail. The top of the car still has about 12-18" to the ceiling, which means you should be able to a Miata to 6'.

Taller cars will obviously detract from that. I'd guess I have about 5'-5'3" with the town and country in the lift, so you'd be at 4'6" ish.

STM317
STM317 Dork
6/19/17 6:41 a.m.
turtl631 wrote: Anyone put a two post in a garage with a 10' ceiling? That's what I'm working with and it seems marginal. It's just drywall ceiling with attic above so I guess I could cut some holes for the top of the posts. I have a 220v run going to the site already and plenty of space on the sides. When I finished out this garage I stopped at lift, compressor, and floor. Costs started really adding up and we'll probably move within five years so I didn't want to go too crazy with it. The compressor I can do without (got a mini one for tires and blasting stuff out) and the bare concrete floor is okay, but the lift would really be sweet.

BendPak makes a lift that will fit under 10 ft ceilings. I'm pretty sure the weight capacity and maximum lifting heights are the same as their taller lifts too. The only drawback is that it's got the floorplate that you'd have to drive over, which can make it difficult to roll things around under the vehicle.

I think the limiting thing here will be vehicle height more than the lift itself. The lift I linked to has a max lifting height of around 6ft, which leaves 4ft of room to fit the vehicle of your choice. Most cars are probably fine in that space. Most trucks/vans/SUVs would probably not fit, so you wouldn't be able to get them as high. Still, getting a larger vehicle 4 or 5 feet in the air is better than 18 inches or so from jack stands.

Pro-tip: Get the low profile arms. They'll fit under lowered performance cars and should let you lift a vehicle another inch or two higher than the full height arms before it would hit the ceiling.

Gearheadotaku
Gearheadotaku PowerDork
6/19/17 9:47 p.m.

Progress!

Got a friend to help me put up the tower extensions and cross beam.

Next day after a few more adjustment and final shimming, this guy went to work. Lets hear it for Home Depot rentals!

Goes through concrete so fast its scary...

Until it doesn't that is... In the first hole I hit something solid and the drill stopped. Clutch would kick in and out, figured I hit a rock or something. Moved on to the the other holes, most went pretty easy though some took a bit of extra effort in the end. Back to the first hole. I was down about 3 inches and making zero progress. Cleaned the hole out and could see something dark. Took a chisel to it, hoping to crack it. No good. Why does my chisel have filings stuck to it? Slip a magnet down the hole.

"click"

Berkley.

It's re-bar.

I'm happy to have beefy re-bar in my slab and under my lift, but now I have to cut through it. Yet another trip to the store for a hole saw and extension. Cut the bar, finished the hole and returned the hammer drill with minutes to spare.

Tonight I tapped in the anchors only to find I forgot to get a 1-1/8" socket the other day and the hole with the re-bar cut is too wallowed out to use the anchor I have. Will need to epoxy that one with threaded rod.

turtl631
turtl631 Reader
6/20/17 10:05 a.m.

Thanks for the replies as I partially threadjack. I'd get a 2 post for working on sports cars, track car etc. Probably would only use minimally for bigger cars like my wife's SUV to rotate tires etc. If we move to a place with a smaller garage I'd consider a 4 post for more storage ability.

WonkoTheSane
WonkoTheSane Dork
6/20/17 1:51 p.m.

Lookin' good, Gearheadotaku! I also borrowed a "real" hammer drill after dinking around with a cheap craftsman someone loaned me.. . Wow. Those things are nuts!

turtl631 STM317 brings up a good point, you will be limited to a floor-plate lift, but that's what I have too and it's not too bad at all. Occasionally it's slightly in the trying to roll the oil drain thingie over or trying to get the jack under something for some additional leverage, but overall it's not a problem. I wouldn't let that stop me from having one!

Ian F
Ian F MegaDork
6/20/17 1:57 p.m.

In reply to WonkoTheSane:

Yep. It's amazing the first time using a real hammer-drill and bit after dorking around with a 18V cordless DeWalt drill with a hammer setting. Maybe the SDS bit helped as well, but my Bosch will go through concrete like a hot knife through butter.

Gearheadotaku
Gearheadotaku PowerDork
6/20/17 8:22 p.m.

The anchor bolts have to be torqued to 150lbs. Made it to about 100lbs and now I'm torqued...

Is it a bad idea to use a big cheater bar on a torque wrench?

Gearheadotaku
Gearheadotaku PowerDork
6/25/17 10:04 p.m.

ITS DONE!!

Now for the story of how I got to this point.

Borrowed a bigger, better torque wrench that allowed me to get to 150lbs. Had to sit on the floor and push with my feet, but got it done. Finished bolting up the cross bar which brings us to this:

Get used to being on a ladder, felt like a 100 trips up and down before the project was done. This little guy was a big help. Got it in one of the GRM Christmas exchange games.

The directions that come with the lift suck. Many things are poorly explained or left out entirely. The cross beam is suppossed to be fitted a certian way, mine is backwards. It's not marked, no mention in the directions. It still works, but my hoses aren't routed quite the same and look sloppy. I'll neaten this up later. There are guides for them that are in a picture several steps after you need to put them in. Again, left/right specfic but no mention of that anywhere. Yes I put them on wrong and had to move them.

Inside the crossbeam are rings to route the hose through. Good idea, keeps it away from the cables right? There was a sharp peice of weld slag in one so big the hose wouldn't pass though. Lucky it was that big, otherwise I would have missed it and certianly had a leak in my future. Finally got the shut off bar on, cables and hoses run. The pulleys are already mounted, but are not greased. No mention in the instructions. Took them apart and greased them. Would have been easier on the ground! Just like alot of the other things that could have been done on the floor...)

The safety locks get one bad picture in the instructions, good luck!

The arms were easy, lube up before inserting of course...

Now for wiring. I ran a 220v 10 gauge wire over to the area previously, just had to make a plug and wire into the contactor. The instructions were of little help and the contactor housing had a different diagram. Made this plug, I'm sure an electrian is shaking his head right now...

Bleed the system, adjust the cables, and its done!

I'll admit my nervousness at this point, but all went well. I can't have the garage door open all the way with a car on, and have to be careful about height with taller bodies, but my Firebird goes all the way up to the lifts max.

The neighors are already asking about my hourly rate

Sky_Render
Sky_Render SuperDork
6/26/17 8:21 a.m.

Jealousy. I has it.

xflowgolf
xflowgolf SuperDork
11/19/18 6:20 p.m.

Hey gearheadotaku, can you message me contact details for the structural engineer or truss engineer you used to get those scab trusses made?  I’m in Michigan and would like to do the same.  

WonkoTheSane
WonkoTheSane Dork
11/19/18 11:14 p.m.

I somehow missed the final goods here.  Nice followup, glad you got it all sorted out :) 


How have you been enjoying it these past 5 months or so?

egnorant
egnorant SuperDork
11/20/18 8:44 a.m.

Lifts are cool! Not only did it expand the jobs I could do, I could now do them faster AND I got to shop for new equipment too!!  Tall drain pan, jack stands and even a transmission jack just feeding my addiction.

 

I started as a kid that thought a bottle jack was the greatest thing on earth. Got a floor jack (and a floor) and was in heaven! I was "Da Man" when I got my drive on mid lift that would...LIFT THE WHOLE CAR!!  A 2 post had me tossing off small talk like "How long till dinner? I gotta pull the rear end from the truck."

Now I have a stack of stuff that when assembled is a 4 post and a few stakes out for my new 40 x60 shop (or 50 x60) whatever!

Have fun!

Bruce

Gearheadotaku
Gearheadotaku UltimaDork
11/20/18 9:34 p.m.
xflowgolf said:

Hey gearheadotaku, can you message me contact details for the structural engineer or truss engineer you used to get those scab trusses made?  I’m in Michigan and would like to do the same.  

I got them from Maverick Building systems

They are by me in Commerce, so the wrong side of the state from Grand Rapids. Any place that makes trusses should be able to help you.  Make the 'hole' as tall and long as you can. I run in to problems with SUVs and wagons. regular cars and standard pickups are fine.

PMRacing
PMRacing SuperDork
2/24/20 1:43 p.m.

Bumping this up due to the recent 2 vs. 4 post thread.  Any updates on your lift?  Successes?  Fails?  Would you go with Challenger brand againm

I am in the market very soon!

Thanks!

Gearheadotaku
Gearheadotaku UltimaDork
2/24/20 6:28 p.m.

 

 No problems with the lift at all. I think Challenger was a good bang for the buck. had to re-reread the thread to remember some of the issues putting it up, the directions were pretty bad.

Drop me a PM if you'd like to come by and see it first hand.

SkinnyG
SkinnyG UltraDork
2/24/20 7:47 p.m.

Make a mark on your hoist, so you know how high you can raise the car when the roll-up door is open.

Just sayin'.

Patrick
Patrick MegaDork
2/24/20 8:06 p.m.

Man, 2 post lifts still scare the E36 M3 out of me.  All that weight leveraging on whatever anchors are in the floor.  I know they're in use everywhere everyday, but it's hard to get over that fear.  

Gearheadotaku
Gearheadotaku UltimaDork
2/24/20 9:35 p.m.

...and with an asymetric its even more pronouced!

mine is rated for 10k, but I will not go over 5k.  The top pf the frame touches the trusses. I have thought about tying them together but that would not be the direction the trusses are strong in. On the good side my roof can't sag!

SkinnyG
SkinnyG UltraDork
2/24/20 10:04 p.m.

If the car is properly balanced on the lift, it should be fine. An asymmetrical lift has asymmetrical arms; I wouldn't expect any hoist to be happy with a car not placed 50/50 on it. I'd be pretty sketched out.

PMRacing
PMRacing SuperDork
2/25/20 8:25 p.m.

In reply to Gearheadotaku :

PM'ed!

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