The collar that the points ride against on the timing advancer is pitted. Mostly on the closed side. The high point or lobe is fine. Concerned about problems like the pitting wearing out the points block where it contacts the sleeve. Can I JB Weld and smooth the collar? Do I even need to?
Pic for reference. The collar is the part in the upper right. Even this one's pitted. New is NOT cheap and you have to get the entire advancer.
Thoughts?
It's been a long time since I have seen the inside of a points distributor. Don't feel like I'm missing anything...
As for your question, I think that would work. I recall that the rubbing block on the point set was plastic, correct? If so, I can't imagine how it would wear down the JB Weld. That stuff is tough.
Floating Doc said:
It's been a long time since I have seen the inside of a points distributor. Don't feel like I'm missing anything...
As for your question, I think that would work. I recall that the rubbing block on the point set was plastic, correct? If so, I can't imagine how it would wear down the JB Weld. That stuff is tough.
My actual concern is the JB Weld coming off the collar, not necessarily getting worn down. Will that stuff stick to anything?
grover
HalfDork
5/14/18 8:50 p.m.
In reply to vwcorvette :
As long as it’s very clean and non porous. Any type of grease has to be cleaned off.
What's it for? My concern would be directly proportional to the price and availability of new points.
Could you possibly braze it? I'd probably try that before using an epoxy. I don't imagine sanding it back would be much more difficult.
Cheapest is used but seem to have same pitting. My advancer is fine just the pitting on the collar/sleeve. Have considered brazing but concerned about distortion from heat.
Robbie
PowerDork
5/14/18 9:53 p.m.
There's very little pressure on the collar when the points are closed. That is probably why they pit there, because the points keep wearing away at the lobes but not anywhere else.
I'd not worry too much about it, maybe emery it smooth. If it starts eating more points than normal, maybe I'd look into it further.
RevRico
UberDork
5/14/18 10:25 p.m.
I think it can handle the pressure
grover
HalfDork
5/15/18 12:12 a.m.
Those videos are pretty amazing.
How about some light grit wet sand and some WD 40? I've used this to buff out pitting and it works, depending on how deep the pitting is. Roll up the sand paper around it spray and twist.
Normaly the point rub block dosn't rub at all on the low side and it pitts there cause its not being wiped with a film of lube. I wouldn't worry to much about it unless you see with a new set of points (Gaped to proper setting) the the rub block runs over the pits. Silicon brazing rod would be the better go to but then you'll have to grind the profile correct.
Seems like an easy part for a home machinist to make
I'm no machinist!
Gonna go with as is and see what happens. Thanks for the comments all.
George
Robbie said:
There's very little pressure on the collar when the points are closed. That is probably why they pit there, because the points keep wearing away at the lobes but not anywhere else.
I'd not worry too much about it, maybe emery it smooth. If it starts eating more points than normal, maybe I'd look into it further.
this is what I would do. As long as the pits are smooth, they should not eat away at the points. I would almost doubt the points even ride on it on the closed side