I know a bunch of folks here are using trailers that come in kit form and that sell for ~$200. Harbor Freight Haul Master, Northern Tool.
I'm considering one of these to offset my U-Haul spending and provide a little more utility to my CR-Z.
Any tips, tricks or experiences?
I built this from a HF trailer:
I narrowed it to bet the width of my bike. Others have built them, got them square and then welded the frame together, which I think is a good idea. The HF trailer comes with really nice nyloc nuts and quality bolts, but a bead of weld goes a long ways too.
I know at least two guys here had catasrophic failures from hf trailers, im sure they will be by soon to tell you where it needs strength.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/knurleds-perfect-trailer-thread/101672/page1/
I stopped updating because I lost some critical receipts. The trailer ended up costing $500 all said and done.
Actually it cost me a season of rallycross and a couple thousand dollars because I stupidly tried to back up with it at a gas station (a near impossibility due to its shortness, 0 to jackknife in five feet), and then tried to maneuver the trailer. Oh BTW this was with a welded diff. Calmly snapped an axle right then and there. So, as per the thread, it really IS 9" time... $450 rear and $400 axles so I can get the width/bolt pattern I want, and a different flange, and new rotors and calipers (might as well upgrade/convert to more common parts, eh? Better in long run and all that) and axle ends and oh I need to buy a chop saw and a set of alignment tools so I can weld the new ends on square...
Really, all you need to debug the trailer itself is whatever suits you to properly/weather-safe connect the wires instead of the supplied scotch-loks (I used butt connectors and heat shrink) and also a box of 3/8" washers, which work just fine on 10mm bolts but cost less. Because the whole thing is assembled with 10x1.50 bolts and Nylocs, and nary a washer in sight. I have a deep philosophical problem with not using washers.
I'd recommend a 4x8 one with 12" wheels just for the extra length to help with jack knifing. I had the 1150 lbs folding one and was very happy with it but if I did it again I'd get the heavier duty non-folding one. I towed that thing all over PA hauling car parts and other stuff.
It only went away when I upgraded to a pickup and it was no longer needed.
And x50 to using real weather proof splices instead of the crap they give you.
Get the 12" wheels. Better wiring connectors. Washers like Pete said, And repack the bearings with quality grease. The stuff that comes in them is lousy. That's all you really need.
IIRC, at least one of the guys who had catastrophic failures had tall "houses" on top that put upward pressure on the tongue bolts into the frame (which it isn't built to have) and ripped them upwards, IIRC. Mine was bought by someone in Seattle, bolted together, towed cross-country, sold to me and I've towed it several thousand miles loaded up with heavy rally tires, a big gear box, and other stuff. Only thing I've done is replaced the bearings and wiring.
This year I did seam-weld the box frame just to stiffen it up a bit, but I don't think it was actually necessary.
And yes, backing down with the small 4x4 one is tricky, though I've gotten pretty good at it in the e30 since I can see the box on top out the rearview. It would be impossible if the trailer was "flat" without being visible in the rearview, I'd say. I've considered extending the tongue, but have never gotten around to it.
I had a major bearing failure that almost ruined the axle on my HF 4X8 trailer. Just today I went to Tractor Supply to look at a 5X10 they have reduced price on until Oct. I intend to buy one within a week or so. The price is $600.00. It includes a folding ramp and 13" 5 lug wheels. Rumor is that HF trailer bearings are junky. Rumor is that the TS trailer has better bearings. I intend to find out.
If you get a HF trailer I suggest you repack the bearings with the best grease you can find and stay well away from the max. rated load rating.
In reply to irish44j:
Trufax: With the Contico box on the unlowered 12" wheel trailer, towing it with a hardtop equipped Miata results in a completely obscured view to the rear.
I would imagine so. With the e30 and the Contico box, it's about 6" above my trunk height so I still can see behind the car fine
The harbor freight trailer bearings are E36 M3.
It's not a rumor. My friend had the right bearing seize on him on the freeway. Not fun.
Buy a real trailer instead.
Also consider that (at least in PA) the cost to title that Chinese POS is more than you pay for the trailer itself. I think the Tractor Supply trailers are a much better value overall.
I've got one that's been around so long and used so much that the tires actually wore out and needed to be replaced.
Fold up is nifty sounded, but not as nifty in use. A solid board deck will make it stiffer, as will a bit of angle iron bolted along the sides across the hinge points.
Small tires spin fast at highway speeds, and don't seem to care. Mile after mile after mile.
Bearing grease is thin as shipped. Repacking is a good idea.
Larger trailers are of course addictive. But they are heavier and more demanding of the tow vehicle. A little HF 4x8 trailer can almost be towed by a moped.
Trailers pretty much don't depreciate. I'd recommend getting a new trailer from a trailer place. Get one with real wheels and tires. Use it as much as you care to and then sell it for about what you paid for it.
I've got a 4x8 HF folding trailer with 12" wheels. I built it with a sheet of 3/4" plywood so it does not fold, and 2' high sides. Heaviest load I've had in it was a yard of soil, which had the suspension compressed enough that the tires rubbed the bottom of the bolts that hold the fenders on. That was probably approaching double the rated capacity of the trailer and not recommended... Other than that, it's been great for hauling brush and trees, appliances, lawn tractors, furniture, docks, etc. I would guess that it has less than 3k miles on it, but for the total investment of less than $400 it owes me nothing.
Hft trailer tire warning:
Well, not the tires, the valve stems.
Thursday morning, all loaded for the bike test and tune at Loudon Nh, checked the preazure in one tire and the valve stem started leaking, ok, I have a spare, over to the other side,and it did it to. CRAP! It ended up both valve stems where leaking from between the brass inset and rubber.
On with the spear, replace one valve stem, and hit Walmart in the way to pick up a second.
I have has the trailer for 20 years or so, the original tires nevery did this but were dry rotted. The tires in question are about 2 year old hft replacements.
So if you bought a trailer or tires in the last couple years check the tires ahead of time.
You'll need to log in to post.
