DaewooOfDeath wrote:
Two big questions.
1. My car achieves 100% maximum transfer from back axle to front axle. It is not rolling the tires over, it is toed out in the rear and runs zero toe in the front. It understeers. Where do I go from here?
WTF does "achieves 100% maximum transfer from back axle to front axle" mean?
100%= the back wheels off ground under braking?
bigger rear bar. always more rear bar. plus some more air pressure in the rear tires.
Lifting the inside rear doesn't mean you have enough rear stiffness. My GSi would lift its inside rear with its tiny stock rear bar and binding/mushy bushings. Once I added a 1" hollow rear bar with no bushing compliance the inside rear wheel barely lifted at all. Get a huge rear bar, connect it directly to the rear struts, and get rid of any bushing compliance.
A massive rear bar might tune out some understeer, but it's not always faster.
Oh.. and yes. Korean macstrut cars are plow happy pigs. I know... I have 2 of them. If you can stiffen the rear enough, and add enough rear pressure you can make the ass end dance, but it will never dance like a spec civic.
If you're getting bad understeer without the tire starting to roll over, it sounds like you're running your tire pressures too high. It would be helpful if you started checking temps across your tires after hot laps. What are your camber settings?
FWD cars have a rear axle? 
More traction up front (better/bigger tires) should help out with the understeer. If you're OK with the grip and want to change the balance, the following changes will tend to make the car oversteer (all else being equal):
- higher rear spring rate
- higher rear tire pressures
- more rear swaybar
Basically any FWD understeers under power, oversteers on trailing throttle or hard braking in the corner.
Toe out on the rear can make the car do really wierd things. Usefull only in an auto cross. Set the toe about 1/8" in.
A bigger rear bar is a definate improvement.
Experiment with tire pressure balance.
I autocrossed my fwd subcompact when it was stock, only change being more negative camber dialed in on the front wheels. So basically the only thing I was experimenting with was tire pressures.
I tried higher and lower pressures in the rear, I personally thought the car felt better with a lower pressure in the rear tire, allowing it to roll more, and when the weight transferred and the car was set in the corner the rear end would be running at a higher slip angle if thats even the correct terminology.
I was usually running 42 psi front, 30 rear. For racing on a track, your experience may vary.
Ranger50 wrote:
100%= the back wheels off ground under braking?
100%
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cugir8ZhGHs
+1 on the rear bar suggestion. Just be aware that, since a front driver usually has most of its weight over the front wheels, freeing up the back end can also produce unwanted snap oversteer. (I.e. - One second happily motoring along, another "Hey, how did the trunk get in front of me?"). There's a reason front drivers typically understeer heavily from the factory.
Also, maybe a limited slip diff if available? Its not going to change the "handling" of the car so much as allow you to potentially overcome the inherent limitations of corning a front driver with throttle inputs. If my SE-R starts to understeer, adding power (which seems totally counter-intuitive BTW and really adds some "pucker factor") will usually pull it through the turn.
JohnGalt wrote:
FWD cars have a rear axle?
Yes. Not all axles are drive axles....
http://www.altairhtc.com/europe/Presentations_2009/Session_13/THYSSEN_SOFEDIT_EHTC_Presentation_Guillaume_LAURENT_041109.pdf
I know my old Hyundai Excel (1st generation) was VERY plow happy till I broke one of the front swaybar links and pulled the bar. It was VERY neutral after that
The only Nubira I've ever had the chance to flog was a '98 like yours, but I found it to be prone to snap-oversteer at the limit. Unsettling, compared to the Lanos and Leganza I drove at the same time. What mods have you made to your suspension so far?
On top of all the other wonderful suggestions (more rear bar FTW), learn and practice left foot braking. Technique alone can get the rear to swing around a bit if you get it right. Massive rally style drifting won't be the fastest way through the corners, but if you moderate it you could at least transfer weight to the front to help with the understeer problem.
White_and_Nerdy wrote:
On top of all the other wonderful suggestions (more rear bar FTW), learn and practice left foot braking. Technique alone can get the rear to swing around a bit if you get it right. Massive rally style drifting won't be the fastest way through the corners, but if you moderate it you could at least transfer weight to the front to help with the understeer problem.
Before upping the rear bar from the dinkiny 13mm to the decent 19mm on the elantra, nothing short of yanking the e-brake mid turn would stp the push.... and even sometimes then it would just slide the inside tire.
Go too big on that rear sway, expect to beef up anything its attached to.
Swap the front bar for a Civic Si front bar. Then swap the rear for a Civic Si bar. Then the struts, then the motor, then the chassis, then the interior...
(you see where I am going here)
pinchvalve wrote:
Swap the front bar for a Civic Si front bar. Then swap the rear for a Civic Si bar. Then the struts, then the motor, then the chassis, then the interior...
(you see where I am going here)
...Of course, the OP will need some luck to find a cheap Civic Si in South Korea. Honda didn't even begin selling cars there until 2004 and the import duties are pretty steep.
AngryCorvair wrote:
DaewooOfDeath wrote:
Two big questions.
1. My car achieves 100% maximum transfer from back axle to front axle. It is not rolling the tires over, it is toed out in the rear and runs zero toe in the front. It understeers. Where do I go from here?
WTF does "achieves 100% maximum transfer from back axle to front axle" mean?
It slightly lifts one inside rear wheel at max cornering speeds. Ie, making the front softer or the rear stiffer will transfer absolutely no more weight.
