Learn me: getting custom exhaust.

pushrod36 wrote: I know of really good exhaust shops in Coon Rapids, MN and in Marysville, OH. Prices are reasonable at both. Not sure where you are located.

Orygun

In reply to Zomby Woof:

So how " not very expensive"? CES quoted me 500$ OTD. That was dual 304, 2.5". An X pipe. And one muffler.

The Lisle LI34400 Pipe Stretcher and a couple of the matching expander dies isn't cheap, like $120 out the door for a full set. And I need a BMF impact gun to use it, no way a HF rechargeable would work, but a Dewalt 20 volt is plenty. And a big ole' can of grease, and a jumbo tube of anti-seize for the drive bolt.

But, you can put a slip-fit joint wherever you want, and that makes custom mild steel exhaust pretty damn simple and doable. Overlap welds are anybody's game, and $20 lap band clamps work great.

The only thing I can't do with the Lisle is make a slip fit on the middle of a bend. Still have to butt-weld those, but I weld like a farmer and I can still manage it.

Speedway sells a nice box-o-bends-and-straights in several track-friendly diameters.

I will try the BBQ paint soon. Auto high-temp stuff has all been flaky crud for me, even with the tedious heat ramp-up process specified on the can. POR makes a brush-on exhaust stuff that I like enough to use again, but damn the first time you start up the car, make sure it's outside. It smokes like crazy for 15 minutes.

are you guys brushing on the bbq paint or spray?

Is it even worth doing on a rallyx car, or is the whole bottom face of it going to be paint free after 2 events anyway?

ProDarwin wrote: are you guys brushing on the bbq paint or spray? Is it even worth doing on a rallyx car, or is the whole bottom face of it going to be paint free after 2 events anyway?

Spray.

I did the from the cat back when I fabbed the exhaust for the Honda two years ago and it's all still there.

No rally though. No clue.

In reply to ProDarwin:

For rallyx, I'd be tempted to spend a bit more and build it out of stainless (even if it's cheap 409 stainless) and not bother painting it. It'll be more durable / long lived than painted mild / aluminized steel and less of a headache not having to worry about the paint.

rslifkin wrote: In reply to ProDarwin: For rallyx, I'd be tempted to spend a bit more and build it out of stainless (even if it's cheap 409 stainless) and not bother painting it. It'll be more durable / long lived than painted mild / aluminized steel and less of a headache not having to worry about the paint.

Stainless gonna double the cost and still rust at the welds unless you backgass and use TIG and SS wire to weld.

In reply to NOHOME:

But it's not really double the cost if it lasts the life of the car instead of getting re-done in a couple of years.

I can TIG with SS rod. I've never used back gas before... how do you do that? Run an extra gas line into one end of the pipe, plug the other end, and orient it so your weld is near the bottom where the argon will settle?

I'm not sure what the life of this car is currently. I'm willing to take a risk on it, but if I do a DD or another project car I may consider stainless pipe. Seems like most of the components are stainless anyway.

Trackmouse wrote: In reply to Zomby Woof: So how " not very expensive"? CES quoted me 500$ OTD. That was dual 304, 2.5". An X pipe. And one muffler.

For what you described in the first post, that would cost me about half that to have done. Was quoted $150 for 2 1/2 SS front to back on my Colorado, I provide the muffler/cat.

When I do SS exh. work myself I arc weld it with 3/32" SS rod.

What does this mean? I want a working cat.

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