So as a fellow NC resident, who checks Craigslist daily for any and all sub-$1500 Mazdas, where did you find the Miata for that kind of price? Looks like a very solid car for that price.
So as a fellow NC resident, who checks Craigslist daily for any and all sub-$1500 Mazdas, where did you find the Miata for that kind of price? Looks like a very solid car for that price.
Took it and $500 in trade for a Volkswagen TDI that I had under $1,100 in
drsmooth wrote: I forgot to mention the thrust bearing in earlier posts. Depending on the year I believe 99-00 and in a specific serial number range there is an issue with the thrust bearing. It has likely already been dealt with in your case based on the mileage. http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/tsb014_00r.gif
After 30k or so, that's no longer a concern.
I've seen a top level CSP car. All autox cars are GRM-ish with DIY mad science experiments - but if you want to run at the pointy end of that field, you will have to put in serious effort. For example, there's probably a hundred hours of dyno time on that car chasing just a little bit more area under the curve.
Well, now you've got me on the lookout for a Miata. Again.
Nice car! That looks like a bargain!
I documented a lot of quick and easy NB upgrades in my Miata Wintercrosser thread two years ago. I've owned two NAs and an NB. I like the looks of the NA, but the NB is much nicer inside.
Find it here:
Just for giggles, take a look at the Nationals results this year. The top CSP car raw timed every street car (understandable), every touring car (still understandable), every other street prepared car (yup), and most of the rest from mod, prepared, and the rest. Something about CSP is just utterly ridiculous.
In reply to KyAllroad:
To be fair, something about Billy Davis is also just utterly ridiculous.
Great find on the car. That's worth easily 4x what you have in it just in parts, more if it has a torsen and a 6 speed.
It does have a torsen and a six speed.
So, what are the parts actually worth?
I figure i have 600 in it. If I dont love it, or decide i do love a miata (just not this one) i want to maximize the return on investment.
I am looking forward to enjoying a convertible for the rest of the season. May even see if a miata is as much fun in the cold with the top down and the heater cranked as my old cj7 was.
That's a 3.9 rear. There's about $1500 in the trans and diff alone at a rough guess.
Holy E36 M3!!!
So, i shouldn't worry about losing money on the car....
No. It's possible I'm a little off on my estimate - I haven't shopped for a while - but you're not going to lose any money!
If it's OEM that hardtop alone is $800-1100.
Reading comprehension fail, missed the part about hardtop not coming with.
Dusterbd13 wrote: So, link to information about cleaning the drain holes? What else should i do right off, other than a good cleaning ?
The picture is looking forward from the wheel-well into the sill. Here is the inside view of what needs to be kept clear. I took the hoses off before I took the picture, but you get the idea. This drains the water from the tops "rain rail".
If you do get water in the sill, it become trapped at the level of the lower holes in this picture.
So, blast the hases with compressed air, and if i think that there is water, droll a 1/4 hole at the lowest point, right?
Dusterbd13 wrote: So, blast the hases with compressed air, and if i think that there is water, droll a 1/4 hole at the lowest point, right?
Guess that would be about it. The grey stuff seems to hold up very well until you flood it with salt water or stagnant water of any kind. The outer skin is very close to the inner sill in the area behind the door, so once it gets wet, it is not likely to dry out.
The guys over at miataturbo aren't nearly as bad as they used to be. They got somewhat sissyfied in the last few years. The knowledge over there is a great resource though, even if you just go to read and learn.
There are drain holes in the sill, but they get clogged up. They're the wide spots at the jacking points.
The general attitude of the miataturbo guys is why we dropped our sponsorship of that forum. Life's nasty enough with encouraging more of it.
Took my daughter trick or treating in it tonight. The headlights suck, the top is almost impossible to put back up and has a hole she can stick her head through, and the clutch pedal is noisy as hell. Oh, and the ac is dead.
But damn, im already falling in love with it.
Any way to get a smaller steering wheel and keep the airbags?
They are fun and I just bought a broken down '00 LS myself. Keep us in the loop on how this progresses!
Thanks to all for posting links and helping me sort out my own car:
Spitting image of mine, just much nicer.
Guess im going to have to start a build thread on this, as i have fallen in love with this brilliant little E36 M3box.
$600? Sounds like a 2017 Challenger
If you blow the drains out with compressed air, you might knock the rubber tubes loose. The top of drain is directly behind the door, maybe 1/4 inch in diameter. If you put water in the top and it does not come out the bottom, tubes are plugged. Stuff collects at the bottom, you can maybe run a fishing line through it to get stuff moving, if it is plugged up.
Bleed the brakes and the clutch hydraulics. Remove the upper plug on the (driver's side of the car)side of the transmission first, so when you remove the lower one, you want to be able to refill it. Same for the differential.
DO NOT REMOVE the plug from the transmission on the passenger side of the car unless you want to double the money you have in the car.
Toebra said: DO NOT REMOVE the plug from the transmission on the passenger side of the car unless you want to double the money you have in the car.
Can you elaborate for those of us who know not what you speak of? But maybe should know?
Dusterbd13 wrote: Took my daughter trick or treating in it tonight. The headlights suck, the top is almost impossible to put back up and has a hole she can stick her head through, and the clutch pedal is noisy as hell. Oh, and the ac is dead. But damn, im already falling in love with it. Any way to get a smaller steering wheel and keep the airbags?
My top gets pretty stiff/difficult as it gets colder. It's not too bad above 40 degrees or so.
Its about 60 here most evenings right now. Below 70 its a real fight, almost like the top has shrunk or its binding on something.
My only NB experience was mixed at best, although for the short time it drove well, I was in love. Be weary of the coil pack. If it starts to go, don't dawdle with replacing it.
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