Time to replace the glass in my RX7 with polycarbonate (front and rear). I'd like to be able to keep the glass in one piece for multiple reasons, not least of which is using it to make a pattern for the replacement stuff. I went with 3/16th's for the front and 1/8th for the rear. Thanks to Piedmont plastics for great service and prices.
I've already got the rubber seals out (lots of fun with 24-year-old rubber) so now it's down to the adhesive.
What tricks have you got? I already have a couple big suction cups to make handling it easier.
wae
Reader
4/3/13 2:25 p.m.
I bought a spool of piano wire from my local auto parts place and a wood dowel from my local hardware store. I cut the dowel into a couple fist-sized pieces and put a couple holes in them to use as handles. Using a knife and some stiff wire, I was able to put a hole in the adhesive and push the piano wire through, then attached the dowel handles and used it like a saw to go all the way around the window frame, sawing through the adhesive.
It was an ugly process and I'm only about 75/25 on not cracking the windshield during this process.
The tool you're looking for.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200334173_200334173
There are videos on YouTube, using the cold knife in the link above. Good luck with not cracking it. (and I mean that sincerely)
I use a braided wire like described above, and have never broken a windshield. Broke lots of wire and had to start over, but never a windshield. Go slow and have somebody on the inside and you on the outside using a slow sawing motion. Kind of like those old school huge two man tree cutting saws. FWIW, SCCA requires what equates to 1/4" on front windshield and 1/8" on sides and rear. Think it's listed in the book as 3mm and 6mm minimum thickness. And, it has to be Lexan and not just any old plexiglass.
ive removed windshields with this tool, basically a very long utility knive that holds a blade at the end. it's time consuming and youve got to be careful about cutting up the window frame down to metal (i painted the frame before installing the new glass) but i've been entirely successful with removing the glass without breaking so far. it's a LOT easier if you have the dashboard out of the car as the leverage on your arms can be better applied. it's tiring no matter what though.
There's nothing in this car but a wiring harness and a steering column so I have plenty of space to move around.
Where did you get that knife? Vatozone?
I've also found wire to work best. With a knife, I usually get about 2 inches along, and then get stuck.
it also helps if everything is nice and warm.
These work pretty good, but I always have problems breaking the blades on mine.
The wire trick works good too as long as you can get the wire through the seal.
Ive had pretty good luck with the wire kit from Harbor Freight. Probably taken out 4 windshields without breaking them.
I usually just roll off a length of insulated wire; whatever is closest to hand. I've never broke one but I am usually parting out or cutting up a car at that point so it doesn't matter; if it did matter the window would break right?
WilberM3 wrote:
ive removed windshields with this tool, basically a very long utility knive that holds a blade at the end. it's time consuming and youve got to be careful about cutting up the window frame down to metal (i painted the frame before installing the new glass) but i've been entirely successful with removing the glass without breaking so far. it's a LOT easier if you have the dashboard out of the car as the leverage on your arms can be better applied. it's tiring no matter what though.
where do you get that? i used a borrowed one long ago with great success but never found them
Take a lighter and heat up end of wire. Pushes right through seal.
I don't mind if I crack the glass, I just don't want glass everywhere. Maybe ill cover it in packing tape just in vase.
that pic i posted was a generic one i found but im pretty sure the one i bought was from my cornwell tool truck guy. i had to find it and get him a part number since he only knew about the bent cutter/puller style one.
i was worried about trying the puller style since i imagined if you get it at the wrong angle it can easily crack the glass and i needed to reuse it. is that a real worry i had?
just ordered one on amazon, look up urethane knife. they have a $10 one like the one my ex buddy had, but i opted for the $20 one with the comfortable looking handle. i have several windsheilds to remove in the next couple months.
The guys who do our windshields have a powered tool that looks like a trim removal attachment for an air hammer. Basically a putty knife on steroids. Buzz buzz from the inside all around the perimeter and the windshield's out.
I've also heard that penetrating oil (PB specifically) on the adhesive turns it into goo and you can easily push it out after that. And that the goo drippings cannot be removed by normal means. Haven't tried this one yet.
DaveEstey wrote:
I don't mind if I crack the glass, I just don't want glass everywhere. Maybe ill cover it in packing tape just in vase.
If cracks are OK, then yeah, packing tape is good. And then the best tool ever for removal - Take a sawzall blade over to the belt sander and sand all of the teeth off of it, and then put a knife edge on it. Go from the inside, with the blade riding the glass / being parallel to the glass. The cowl is easy. The other parts are a bit harder with the window frame in the way, but angling the saw typically makes that better. Windshield will be out in 5 minutes.
Urine dissolves old windshield adhesive like magic. I am 100% serious, you have to try it.
pinchvalve wrote:
Urine dissolves old windshield adhesive like magic. I am 100% serious, you have to try it.
And put the video on youtube
On the front of the '66 Nova, I got my neighbor's nephew to come over and kick it out from the front seat. He was a strapping youth and accomplished the job without much difficulty, but the windshield did not survive intact (it was cracked when we started, and unrecognizable when we finished). On the rear glass, I used the piano wire method and removed it in one unscathed piece.
Toyman01 wrote:
These work pretty good, but I always have problems breaking the blades on mine.
The wire trick works good too as long as you can get the wire through the seal.
Yep. Using my welders gloves, I also heat the blade with a MAAP torch and it cuts 5 to 10+ inches like butter before reheating. Get inside and push window out with feet. About a 10 minute job.
