Learn me shifter carts

So being a college student with no more rom for another car I am interested in shifter karts. I want to use one for autocross duty(cause I don't think my Stag will be all that competative) and maybe some cart track shinanagines. So how expensive are they to buy and run, where is good info, etc. I am a big guy, so what do I fit in? What size engine do I want? Should I just spend the money on a motorcycle instead? I saw Senna two weeks ago so thats what started this latest fancy. a hotlinked picture as payment for advice -Ryan

Do you have local kart tracks? That's really going to be the best place to start.

I did a very brief look into shifter karts a year or so back... what I found was you can get into a used kart for ~$2500, and you'll probably spend another ~$2500 on amenities like a trailer, kart-lift, tools, karting armor/PPG, and the like.

I'm sure others with much more knowledge/experience than I will chime in soon

How big you are does matter. Sadly, at 225# I'm right out of shifter kart range. Hell, I fit in my D sports racer fine, but between the car and me I'm 227# above class minimum weight.

F125, the SCCA solo2 class for shifters, runs at 385#. In my case that leaves 160# for the kart+fluids to meet minimum, and that would require a very trick kart w/ about every weight saving measure. Given equal talent and horsepower, a 150# driver will crush me on cost and setup, as he'll be able to run any chassis, and will have to ballast to make weight, and where that ballast goes has a major effect on setup and handling.

I raced sprint karts for a few years at the local bullring. Briggs stock heavy was what it was called. These used the venerable aluminum flathead Briggs and Stratton "Raptor" motorsports engines which were blueprinted and tun on methanol. They'd rev to 7k+ rpm, and made around 10hp. This was very fun racing - a 10 turn, 3/8 mile track and a group of guys who'd been racing each other for years. You were often in contact w/ several karts at once, and the day I finished ahead of last was an occasion to celebrate. A problem was that they ran at 360# and I was 200. I had no lead on my kart, and paid for that with handling. Where you place the seat and ballast is how you achieve 50/50 crossweight - without lead, you can only move the seat so far...

So. If you're not too big, shifters are crazy fun. Nothing is quicker. The tuning and setup is a steep learning curve, and mistakes are expensive. They're high maintenance for sure. But on the basis of laptimes vs. $, nothing comes even remotely close.

SCCA Solo Rules

Comet, a good kart shop

Russell, another good kart shop

I just bought one. When I'm at a computer I'll expand on my thoughts. 2 things. 1 EVERYTHING is a wear item, even the chassis. 2. Go search ekartingnews and all your questions will he answered.

EKN solo2 FAQ http://www.abqautoxer.com/SoloKartingNewbieFAQ.pdf

Couple of thoughts in no particular order. Define big guy? 200#? 300#? You can make weight as a 200# guy(with an ICC/PI honda), but a 300# guy won't. The PI/ICC motors are definitely faster, but carry a 20# weight penalty. This might be the motivation you need to get running/biking and lose the weight if you're well over where you should be, but the weight you loose will matter. It's got me running a couple times a week if nothing else to get my stamina up(and you will use every bit of it if you're going to run a 20 minute session in a 125 shifter track session unless you're a triathlete)

Shifter karts are kind of pain to be honest. No onboard starter means that spins, and moving around in grid/paddock is a pain, they require hot clothing(suits and gloves), and not an insignificant amount of tinkering(jetting, brake shimming, etc). You also need to choose your codrivers carefully. I have a smaller kart so I didn't think that asking a friend who has the same waist as I do would be a big deal last sunday. Turns out he couldn't reach the pedals. I managed to shorten up the pedals for him, but that meant I couldn't drive until a later heat. ( I spun the kart in my first run because I couldn't release the throttle)

There are some major advantages though. You won't go faster for cheaper. PERIOD 0-60 3.0 seconds, 2.5G on a rubbered in course makes for a major rush. There are less parts to maintain, and they're cheaper to boot. For instance, tires are only $220, a(only one required) is $100-200, a new frame used is only $1500, etc. But all of that has a lifecycle. Pistons needs to be changed every 4-5 hours, bottom ends rebuilt every 25, carbs rejetted for weather almost every event, etc.

If the HUGE kick in the pants is worth it? That's up to you. Find another big guy to codrive with(we've got a growing herd of karts here in NC), show up early, watch what he does to get the kart ready,codrive and break down the kart with him and then decide if it's really for you.

For better or worse a friend of mine got my wife addicted to the crack pipe, so now I own and maintain one.