mck1117
New Reader
8/1/16 5:33 p.m.
Bought a used BW T5 from a 1994 Mustang GT. Looks to be in overall good shape.
This is the input shaft bearing retainer.
Those look like wear marks to me. Is it supposed to be like that? The bearing race is free to spin in there with your fingers, but I'm not sure what it'd be like when preloaded.
The bearing rollers and race themselves look fine.
I just went through my 2 t-5s recently to repair a blown 3rd gear (low mileage '93 Cobra transmission) and blown 4th gear (only God knows how many miles), and in neither case did I notice that kind of wear. Not sure of what kind of budget you are on, but this may be a case of taking the safe route and replacing a part while it's easy to do so! Good luck.
mck1117
New Reader
8/1/16 6:44 p.m.
Yeah, I'm probably going to replace the input shaft/bearing anyway since this has the long shaft for the SN95 bellhousing. Looks like the retainer is only another $50 or so.
You will have to set the preload on that bearing after replacement. It's not hard. I usually just set it so that the shaft has no wiggle but also no binding in the bearing. You will need a selection of shims that go behind the bearing race. Make sure they come with the bearing or you'll have to order them separately.
You have to take the bearing retainer off and on a few times to get the right preload. You want it with no wiggle when checking it as you will then add sealer to the retainer when you bolt in on for good and that will loosen up the preload just a tiny bit so allow for that when you select your spacer/s.
mck1117
New Reader
8/2/16 5:39 p.m.
I have access to precision measurement tools, so I should be able to set it the "normal" way described in the manual with a dial gauge. I've heard that .002-3 of preload can help keep it a little quieter, and also keep around .000 on it when the bearings wear in (and you may be able to only find 0.005 increment shims anyway).