The window tint on my newly acquired miata is really dark. Before I decide to have it removed, I thought I would try adding better illumination from my reverse lights. Anyone have an opinion on switching from incandescent to LED replacement bulbs?
The window tint on my newly acquired miata is really dark. Before I decide to have it removed, I thought I would try adding better illumination from my reverse lights. Anyone have an opinion on switching from incandescent to LED replacement bulbs?
Put the top down?
Sorry, I'm no help. 
I'm also interested in how much brighter these are.
One trick I've done to get more brightness out of the existing bulb is to use aluminum tape to add a reflector in the taillight housing if there isn't one already.
While not exactly what you're asking for...
First new top I put on my Jeep Wrangler, I splurged and got the tinted vinyl rear and side windows. I similarly couldn't see very well when backing up at night.
I mounted something very similar to these, Blazer Driving Light Kit, on my rear bumper, and wired them to a toggle switch on my dash. I could see great when backing up, and with them angled up just slightly, they worked great to remedy tailgaters too.
One ticket for a burned-out bulb is more expensive than switching every car you'll ever own to LED turn signal, taillight, and reverse light bulbs.
My Miata has LEDs for every exterior light. I haven't noticed that the reverse lights are particularly brighter but they are a different color temperature.
chaparral said:One ticket for a burned-out bulb is more expensive than switching every car you'll ever own to LED turn signal, taillight, and reverse light bulbs.
I dunno, I see those bulbs (DOT LED 1156 & 1157) going for $10~$20 a piece...how much are the tickets by you?
$50-$150 for the ticket, and then $250-$500 per year for 3-5 years in insurance surcharges.
In reply to chaparral :
Fix it tickets count against your insurance? What state is that?
I know on my 1999 Miata, the Sylvania LEDs at Advanced Auto will either illuminate for idle-on, but not brakes depressed; or instead for brakes depressed, but not idle-on depending on if you install em 180 degrees off or not. Immediately returned for an incandescent that worked.
Make sure to test your lights before re-attaching the lamp to the car.
OK I just ordered 4 of these, the cheapest I've seen yet:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01NCOHKCZ/
I'll see how they work around the end of this month. I want to reduce the load on my Samurai's taillight circuit so that I can install a high-mounted brake light and LED cube reverse fog without running more wires from the front of the vehicle (instead, just tapping into the existing brake light wiring). Also I don't want my Corolla to burn its battery down while the brake pedal is clamped during alignments (it has 4 1157s plus an LED "jumbo peanut" in the spoiler brake light). If they're brighter I'll consider that a bonus, and will look into ordering white ones for my Samurai's reverse lights.
IME the standard replacement bulbs usually aren't much brighter, if any, than the stock incandescents. The major advantage is in their longevity.
In reply to RevRico :
In MI/TX/MA they're fix-it tickets only at the officer's and judge's discretion. If they want to they can throw the book at you and these are all points-bearing offenses.
NJ a fix-it ticket is a non-points bearing ticket. They would also never ticket for non-op reverse lights. Heck, I am not sure they ticket for non-op brake likes by how many cars I see running around with only the 3rd brake light working.
I put those Sylvania LEDs in my Rover. Rear Fog, reversing, and the brake/running lights. Much brighter than stock and the differing colour temp makes them more noticible.
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