My TR4 challenge car needs some welding. It comes with replacement fenders that look like they need to be welded in place along the lower edges. I'm assuming they're meant to be spot welded as the panels come with evenly-spaced holes along the flange.
I know nothing about welding...except that I'm sure I'll suck at it. Looking for an easy solution.
How about those electric resistance welders? Would they be up the the job?
A couple of 12v batteries, some jumper cables and a welding rod?
Are you sure they need to be welded? If I remember correctly, the fenders on the TR4 were designed to be bolted on from the inside. Unless I'm thinking of the wrong piece of the fender.
In reply to boxedfox :
Could be. No reason they couldn't be bolted or even pop-riveted in place. I just assumed they were meant to be welded.
In reply to LanEvo :
I think it's worth a look. I found this exploded body diagram off the Moss Motors site:
Source:
https://mossmotors.com/front-body-panels-tr4-4a
If you can bolt it in place it would be much easier. The Harbor Freight spot welders aren't very powerful and they have trouble with anything but the thinnest sheet metal.
In that exploded diagram part #14 is a fender welt strip. Almost certain it would be bolted in between the fender and body structure.
In reply to ebonyandivory :
Now THAT would feel good. Imagine all 36vdc coursing through your veins as your wife hollers out the back door "Joe Dirt, sweety, I made ya some tea!" But it's too late, you're dead on the ground convulsing in sweet car battery juice. But it's cool, you smoked your last cig a few minutes ago, you weren't going into work tomorrow anyways, and besides, you've got your favorite cut off Def Leppard shirt on.
In reply to _ :
Why would you get hurt doing something so simple? You realize this "technology" has been used millions of times in the outback/woods for decades right?
Hang out with the kind of four wheelers that reseat tires with starting fluid etc. and you'll see it used. I know of at least one GPW frame that was repaired with batteries I believe in Moab (could've been the Rubicon).
I have a TR4A. Both the front and rear fenders are all bolted on. The blow up picture shows the details.
In reply to ebonyandivory :
I know. It's just fun to think about some hillbilly contraption like this being used by some Joe Dirt lookalike. 36 volts used correctly? You're ok. 36volts not used correctly, it's gonna hurt.
dherr said:I have a TR4A. Both the front and rear fenders are all bolted on. The blow up picture shows the details.
That will make things much easier
How about filling pin-holes? What's the technique?
LanEvo said:How about filling pin-holes? What's the technique?
I Mig them with a copper spoon behind the hole.
How's the donor TR3 look?
_ said:In reply to ebonyandivory :
I know. It's just fun think about some hillbilly contraption like this being used by some Joe Dirt lookalike. 36 volts used correctly? You're ok. 36volts not used correctly, it's gonna hurt.
It's not the voltage that hurts. It's the current behind the voltage that hurts.
In reply to Stampie :
Riigghht. Again folks, I'm just generalizing here for the sake of comedy. Would y'all prefer watts? Cause Im Quite adept at converting
LanEvo said:dherr said:I have a TR4A. Both the front and rear fenders are all bolted on. The blow up picture shows the details.
That will make things much easier
How about filling pin-holes? What's the technique?
Might sound like blasphemy, but if this is a case of some minor pinholes and it is a challenge car, I would clean the panel on both sides, convert the rust, epoxy paint and do a skim of "All metal" and sand that down smooth. You are going to need a skim of filler over the repair patch anyway.
Pete
In reply to _ :
36V DC from batteries is no different than 36V DC from a buzz box, so what's the issue here?
NOHOME said:Might sound like blasphemy, but if this is a case of some minor pinholes and it is a challenge car, I would clean the panel on both sides, convert the rust, epoxy paint and do a skim of "All metal" and sand that down smooth. You are going to need a skim of filler over the repair patch anyway.
I'm tempted to go this route. I was looking at products like JB Weld "SteelStik" and Würth "Epoxi-Stick Metall"
HF sells cheap spot welders, never used em, just sayin...
Do it right and it is cheap. Using a Gmaw (mig) welder. Grind the contact tip so it is recessed 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch in the gas nozzle. Grind 2 or3 slots in the gas nozzle. To use put the nozzle on the weldment and pull the trigger. It also works with Fcaw (flux core). Use old worn out tips and nozzles. Low power and quick pullsvon the trigger are your friends
pilotbraden said:Do it right and it is cheap. Using a Gmaw (mig) welder. Grind the contact tip so it is recessed 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch in the gas nozzle. Grind 2 or3 slots in the gas nozzle. To use put the nozzle on the weldment and pull the trigger. It also works with Fcaw (flux core). Use old worn out tips and nozzles. Low power and quick pullsvon the trigger are your friends
I'll have to try this. What am I welding with it? Butt weld? Plug weld?
Spot welding is used on overlapping pieces. It is similar to a plug weld but since the metal is thin a hole is not required
You'll need to log in to post.
