There is a YouTube video of a guy that uses Molasses for rust removal. Apparently cheap, he keeps a vat of it and just throws the parts in and let them soak. It won't harm the metal so you can leave them in as long as you want.
There is a YouTube video of a guy that uses Molasses for rust removal. Apparently cheap, he keeps a vat of it and just throws the parts in and let them soak. It won't harm the metal so you can leave them in as long as you want.
Yes and no. The chelation process slows and ultimately stops as the chemicals are used up. The sugars feed a bacterial process, and the whole liquid mass breaks down eventually. Usually takes a few months to a year, but eventually the entire thing goes kaput.
Do not under estimate the stench. This really is a gag-a-maggot sort of stink. The stench permeates your hands and arms, and doesn't fully wash off. You can thin it, but you'll carry it for a few days. Fwiw, this is coming from a guy a who makes his own jars of decomposed mice and such for trapping. Vats of rotting fermenting molasses and such really stink.
miatame wrote: What about rust on panels of cars? Is there anything that can actually convert rust so it won't keep spreading? Seems like the only good method is grinding to bare metal.
Eastwood sells a spray on rust converter as well as a brush-on gel version.
Harbor Freight sells Evapo-Rust which has worked well for me.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=evapo-rust
I've had moderate success with Loctite's offering, first time I used it I was quite amazed, since then I've not has good of luck. I have no real data points to compare when it works well and when it doesn't. Same prep used, just different items being treated.
When I have to cut into rockers and any other place that is inaccessible, our body and paint guy demands that I only use Ospho for rust converting. His experience tells him that most other products will react with his paint job. I do sneak some weld through/high zinc content primer wherever I can.
For surface rust removal we run across the street and pick up CLR at the grocery store. It does an surprising job. Do a google image search for "CLR patina" Having trouble linking on my phone.
In reply to Ditchdigger:
Is there even such a thing as "surface rust?" I've always figured all rust I can see on the surface of a vehicle is just the tip of the iceberg and it's all come from inside the panel.
Minus rock chips, of course.
I have had good luck with this stuff as a stop gap over surface rust on body panels. Light wire brush to knock off any loose stuff and spray over. Seems to stop thigns dead intill I can get back and properly prep and fix (this can be 6 months or more some times). The last time I use it I had a piece of paint come off the lip of the fender where I had rolled it years back and it was starting to surface rust. Just sprayed it on with no prep last fall hoping it would hold till spring. A complete winter later (this was on my dd) and I was looking at it today and it looks great no rust has returned.
That rustoleum stuff works really well especially if you remove as much remaining rust as possible.
I tried some other stuff before that wasn't a spray can that didn't work hardly at all, though. I don't remember the name of it but it comes out like shampoo almost and turns all the rust black. That crap didn't work on my old jetta for even one winter.
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