LM Toyota transmission adapting

I guess the W-series Toyota boxes are supposed to be really strong. I used to see companies that sold adapter plates to mate them up to all sorts of other engines. Where did they all go?

Incidentally, while trying to find this information, I found that the bellhousing pattern is generic to Aisin-Warner transmissions, meaning it should be cross-swappable between things like Jeeps (here's that RWD Neon trans I wanted) and Solstices.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/ive-got-an-idea-aka-talk-me-out-of-it-jeep-xj-content/45705/page1/

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=101830&sid=11e6513a1d3376a4d4a7315735161082#p101830

That's all Jeep related. I don't care about Jeeps (just mentioned them as an aside), I want to see if I can still buy bolt-together adaptation for other engines, since apparently I can get W-boxes for $100-150 instead of $800 for a T5.

Yes, i think it's absurd that people are selling used glass transmissions for 50-75% of the price of a brand new one.

EDIT: Okay, I see what you're talking about now, in that second link. VW adapters? Neeeeat.

I think the W58 is good to around 300-350hp fwiw. What sort of power are you looking for?

Oh... Oh god. This is bad. This is very bad.

From the Locost link: Jeep AX5, Toyota G52, G58, W55, W56, W57 and W58 5-speeds all share a common face pattern on the case (Small pattern). As such, any 88-99 Jeep 2.5L bellhousing (NOT Dakota) will bolt a Toyota W series transmission to a 60 degree GM bolt pattern. Aftermarket: Advance Adapters: Bellhousing to bolt a W and G series Toyota trans to a Chevy-Buick-Olds-Pontiac block. Northwest Off Road: Bellhousing to bolt W and G series to Ford 5.0. www.northwestoffroad.com Suzuki Only Supply: Adapter plate to bolt W and G series to Suzuki 1.3\1.6. www.rock4xfabrication.com/ringr.htm Acme Adapters: Adapter plate and flywheel to bolt VW 1.6, 1.9 Diesel to W and G series transmisson. www.acmeadapters.com Japanese Auto Repair: Adapter plate to bolt Toyota W and G series transmissions to a Mitsubishi DOHC 4G63 bellhousing. www.japaneseauto.com #2. 94-95 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects all to any K car based 2.2L-2.5L L4 in a RWD application. #3. 96-00 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects all to any Jeep 2.5L L4. Because of it's GM 60 degree V6 inherited bolt pattern, also works with any Buick FWD V6 and supercharged V6, any Chevrolet 2.8/3.1/3.4 V6, any Cadillac 4.1/4.5/4.9 V8 and with a minor modification, any Olds Aurora DOHC V8 and Cadillac DOHC Northstar V8. Also bolts to any Isuzu 3.2\3.5 DOHC V6. #4. 88-99 Jeep 4.0L L6 bellhousing: Connects all to any AMC 290/304/343/360/390/401 V8 and any 72 and later 232 L6 and 258 L6. #5. 94-99 Dakota 3.9L V6 Bellhousing: Connects all to any 3.9L V6 and any 273/318/340/360 V8, Magnum 5.2\5.9 V8, 5.7L Hemi V8 and Jeep 2.8L CRD Turbo Diesel. 01-04 Jeep Liberty 3.7L V6 bellhousing: Connects all to any 3.7L V6 and 4.7L V8. 03-04 Jeep Liberty\TJ 2.4L bellhousing: Connects NV1500 to 2.4L SOHC\DOHC Neon\SRT-4\PT Cruiser L4 (See info at #11) Isuzu Trooper 3.5 V6 AR5 bellhousing: Connects all to any Isuzu 3.2\3.5 V6 04-05 Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 bellhousing: Connects all to any Vortec 2800 L4, 3500 L5 and 4200 L6 06 Pontiac Solstice\ Saturn Sky MA5 bellhousing: Connects all to any Ecotec 2.4L

Holy. Freaking. Crap. Anything I'd want from a 1-liter Metro engine to a 4.2 inline Chevy to a small block Mopar.

And I only copy/pasted the ones that I found interesting.

So many project ideas, so little time, so little space.

Aussies seem to have this nailed....

http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_conversions/2wd_trans.htm

Rog

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: I think the W58 is good to around 300-350hp fwiw. What sort of power are you looking for?

This is more of a project feeler, finding out what I can do before I decide in which direction to go.

HP ratings are so nebulous. I've heard that the W58 is plenty good to 500hp. Mazda guys used to use them as an upgrade from the Turbo II boxes, and FORD used the TII box as an upgrade from the T5. (No, The Ford "Kogyo" isn't cross-compatible bolt-wise with anything Mazda - integrated bellhousing in Ford applications) So I'm fairly confident that the Toyota box is stronger than a T5.

It's certainly a hell of a lot cheaper. The most expensive part of a trans swap is all of the things you have to do to make it work in the car, once you've done that, the next trans is a lot cheaper. Even if the Toyota box is only as strong as a T5, it's nicer to have a much cheaper "disposable".

And, I might catch hell for this, I've never driven a T5 that shifted worth a damn. Ford, Chevy, 4-cyl, V8, they all feel like they need two hands. No wonder the drag guys bend forks.

Knurled wrote: And, I might catch hell for this, I've never driven a T5 that shifted worth a damn. Ford, Chevy, 4-cyl, V8, they all feel like they need two hands. No wonder the drag guys bend forks.

Then don't get a Tremec 3550/TKO/TKO-II/TKO-500/TKO-600.... It makes the T5 shifting seem effortless.

Biggest thing with T5 shifting smoothness is having a shifter worth a damn. Factory shifters are a hot knife in warm butter for shifting smoothness.

Ranger50 wrote: Then don't get a Tremec 3550/TKO/TKO-II/TKO-500/TKO-600.... It makes the T5 shifting seem effortless.

Preaching to the choir, man. I put a TKO-600 in a Road Runner and I hated driving the thing. Even with a 2' long shifter (Pistol-Grip with a 5-speed pattern on it!) it just felt... odd. High shift effort and notchy to boot. I assume that most of that SHOULD get better with break-in, given that it was a brand-new unit straight from Keiser. I'll find out this spring when the car comes back.

Knurled wrote: given that it was a brand-new unit straight from Keiser.

UGH..... I wouldn't buy anything from him if he was the last person on earth selling it. Snake oil sales at the best, claiming the POFS T45/T3650 can handle the power he claims and the price he charges... LOL!!!

The notchiness is from too many teeth on the sliders and synchros to engage along with springs that have too much pressure on the lugs in the sliders. JMO. It seems like the drag boxes shift butter smooth, even with the crash box mods, out on the street.

Perhaps, but what are the other options for swapping an overdrive manual into an RB-engined B-body? (Overdrive is not negotiable - car gets driven long-distance frequently)

Ick, i feel sick, I forgot if it's a 511 or just an overbored 440.

Either way, I do have to admit that the kit was pretty well done. The transmission tucked up into the chassis as advertised (BIG notch cut out to clear the floor), the new crossmember bolted in with no problems, the driveshaft was the correct length (often a major hassle).... the only difficulty we encountered that I can recall was unrelated to the kit itself - the car had been converted to 4-speed using parts not made for that chassis, so we had a good deal of un-work to do. Not the kit's fault.

This thread is being referenced elsewhere and there is some info I feel should be clarified.

The Toyota W and Jeep AX5 share nothing with the bigger Toyota Rs, Jeep AX15, MA5s and AR5s. That wasn't painfully obvious and I thought it should be in here.