Going to do the job with water pump in my 2000 tonight. I have the flying miata tool kit, and all the seals/pullies/etc.
Anyone have a good how to for a moron? Ive done 3 timing belt jobs in my life, and they all kicked my ass. So im trying to find the easy button.
Step 1. Remove the radiator
In reply to KyAllroad:
Already out, along with the hood, fenders, front bumper, and headlights.
I think I have pretty good access to do it, or at least see what I am screwing up. 
The best how-to is found in Mazda Miata Performance Projects.
I'll give you instructions like GM Service Information does:
Step 1: Remove old timing belt
Step 2: Install new timing belt
All kidding aside, I use a Chilton's manual for my '90 and it's pretty decent for timing belt. The biggest problem is, at least on the 1.6L, the procedure is not a precision operation. A lot of leeway and you are literally told that things should "approximately line up" And it's true
Everything lines up once the belt is tensioned. There's slop in the system up to that point.
It's a job that Miata enthusiasts have been competing on for decades, trying to make it sound scarier and scarier. It's not. Just watch out for online guides that were written by a random guy who struggled through the job once and missed a few things and made it far more difficult than it really is. Don't cut the belt, count teeth or any of that crap. Just check your alignment once the belt is tensioned and you'll know 100% if it's right.
I've never done a timing belt before and did the one on my 1990 Miata without causing any engine damage, following the guide on Miata.net. The only issue I had was I had to use an impact wrench on the cam gear bolts (Had to replace cam seals that were leaking). The big wrench on the flats of the cam itself didn't work at all.
Don't rush it, and spin the engine through a few complete revolutions after it's all tensioned just to make sure everything lines up afterwards.
Keith's book seems like a good investment to me - about the same price as a Chilton's but covers all sorts of fun projects that you wouldn't find in a Chilton!
Easiest way to get those cam gear bolts: loosen them when the belt is still on the engine.
Tensioning procedure: turn the crank 1 5/6 turns from TDC so the tensioning marks line up. Release tensioning spring and lock down the pulley. Turn the crank 1/6 turn to TDC. Marks will now line up - or very much will not if you got it wrong There will be no doubt.
Buy a copy of this book.
Or two!
Easiest car I've ever done a timing belt on.
Any suggestions on how to seperate the crank pulley from the crank hub? Mine seems to want to stay together. Removed it as an assembly, which made the crank bolt lots of fun. Couldn't even use my nifty flyin miata tool.
Assuming you have the four bolts out, I'm going to recommend penetrating oil and a deftly wielded bonking stick.
Thought about that, but was afraid of damaging the plate between the two parts. But itt get the hammer and brass drift.
Keith Tanner wrote: Assuming you have the four bolts out, I'm going to recommend penetrating oil and a deftly wielded bonking stick.
I think that's how I got my son.
Tyler H wrote: Easiest car I've ever done a timing belt on.
I have never done a Miata.. but the easiest I have done is an original Fiat 124 spider. I could do one in half an hour
Stampie wrote:Keith Tanner wrote: Assuming you have the four bolts out, I'm going to recommend penetrating oil and a deftly wielded bonking stick.I think that's how I got my son.
You may be thinking of a boinking stick. I would not recommend confusing the two.
The first one I did with the help of Keith's book and found it to be a really easy job.
I think I would already be done if i wasn't doing all the cam/crank/water pump stuff. 3.5 hours so far.
Are you changing all the coolant hoses too? That'll add some time to the job.
Upper and lower radiator hoses. Rest look and feel to be in great shape.
I think the cold medicine isn't helping.
Called it quits at 4 hours tonight. But the thing is almost done. Timing covers are on, now its just reassembly.
Factory service manual gives a procedure for adjusting the crank sensor. Is there anything to be gained by messing around with it while I am in here?
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