WilberM3
WilberM3 Dork
12/14/12 12:37 p.m.

It's been sitting for 7 years... I looked over the car already so i know what it what's leaking/loose etc, but what should i know about them that i dont know by looking around one?

if everything goes as planned id like to get it up and running again and ultimately if i end up liking how it drives put a good suspension under it, and swap a v8, with the possibility of it being a future challenge car. so what forums/sites ought i check out to learn more outside of the GRM hive?

Travis_K
Travis_K UltraDork
12/14/12 12:51 p.m.

The most important thing would be to change the timing belt and all the fuel lines before you try to start it.

Maroon92
Maroon92 MegaDork
12/14/12 12:52 p.m.

If you keep the four, change the timing belt and rollers NOW. If you ditch it, I'll take it!

turboswede
turboswede PowerDork
12/14/12 1:50 p.m.

I second the timing belt/water pump change. Don't start it without it, unless you want to move up your V8 swap plans.

Pelican parts has a pretty active 924/944 forum. Plus they sell parts at a reasonable price.

There's http://clarks-garage.com/ for great how-to right ups and other info.

CIP1.com has fairly cheap 28mm rear torsion bars (super beetle off-road section) and the front suspension is similar to the Mk1 rabbit, so the usual fixes and upgrades can apply. Watch the aluminum control arms, they like to crack around the ball joint if lowered too much and balljoints for the aluminum arms aren't fun to repair.

There's Rennlist and the local PCA chapter as well.

Texas Performance Concepts has info on V8 swaps and other modifications. Avoid Renegade, they don't seem to be well received (even though GRM like them)

turboswede
turboswede PowerDork
12/14/12 1:57 p.m.

Also, here's a link to a less expensive option for racing front struts and rear shocks:

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=25272

Just be aware of the change in bolt pattern on the knuckles.

Though the Spec-944 parts work pretty well and you can find Koni's takeoffs pretty easily if you poke around.

docwyte
docwyte HalfDork
12/14/12 2:49 p.m.

Yes to the above on the timing belt/water pump. Also check to make sure the clutch is good, as that's a crappy job to have to do.

I have an LS1 in my 944, it's a hoot. However my car was a turbo, with a "regular" 944 you end up having to upgrade a lot of parts like brakes, suspension, transmission, etc...

turboswede
turboswede PowerDork
12/14/12 3:00 p.m.

Stock 944 brakes with good pads are plenty good. Brembo's are nice when you reach the limits or are running lots of track days.

the stock 944 transmission is essentially the same as used behind the Audi 20-valve motors and is used by many of the the mid-engined Lambo and GT-40 kit cars. With a little bracing on the case, they are plenty strong, changing the 5th gear will make it a perfect solution.

The 01E 6-speed from the Boxster and later Audi's can be made to fit with some work.

cutter67
cutter67 Reader
12/14/12 3:03 p.m.

why was it parked for seven years. before you start changing things i would do a compression check on the engine and make sure it wasnt parked because of a timing belt. if it does check out timimg belt water pump balancing shafts belt which has to come off anyway. you will get two different stories on these a lot of people delet the shafts because of horsepower gains but it just shakes the engine apart in my mind from oil pick-up tubes to fuel rail cracks.

another thing ac and heat controls they can be a nightmare

shifter bushings another thing

i truly love 944's but not the v8 swapped ones just had one will never have another it defeats what the car was designed to be

docwyte
docwyte HalfDork
12/14/12 4:11 p.m.

No reason to modify a bunch of stuff to make a Boxster/Audi transmission fit when you can drop in a 951 transmission.

The brakes and transmission will be an issue with a V8 swap, otherwise they're fine.

turboswede
turboswede PowerDork
12/14/12 5:45 p.m.
docwyte wrote: No reason to modify a bunch of stuff to make a Boxster/Audi transmission fit when you can drop in a 951 transmission. The brakes and transmission will be an issue with a V8 swap, otherwise they're fine.

No. They won't. Brembo's are bling. Transmission is fine as long as you don't clutch dump it or run much over a stock LSx. Swapping an earlier NA 5th gear will help drop the revs on the highway.

Here's a thread on an LT1 build:

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=35975

The transaxles aren't much different internally, the turbo might have slightly stronger gears but then you're getting into the area where the TT shaft and coupler might be the weak point along with the CV joints, etc. The Turbo did have the option of an oil cooler, which is where a lot of the longevity comes from.

docwyte
docwyte HalfDork
12/14/12 11:47 p.m.

Turbo trans are more likely to have a LSD. Some have the cooler. The S2 and Turbo S trans have hardened 1st and 2nd gears along with a hardened input shaft. Nobody drops in an LS1 and leaves it alone. Considering you can easily make 375rwhp/torque out of one with just a cam swap, that's what you're going to do. The stock 944 tranny won't hold up to that for long.

Brembo's are NOT bling. They're hugely better at stopping the car on the track, particularly when you dramatically up the power. I could abuse my brakes all weekend long with no issues, the same couldn't be said of stock 944 brakes harnessing the same kind of power I'm making.

racerdave600
racerdave600 Dork
12/15/12 8:19 a.m.

I'm gonna second starting with turbo parts as well. I've owned both flavors of 944's and there is a big difference in terms of strength and reliability. I had a few issues with my na transaxle with no mods at all to my'89 944. With the turbo you could beat on no issues.

I do know some one that built up a'86 na with a v8 swap and he went through two transaxles before picking up the 951 version. No issues after that. And to second the brembos. Big difference there too.

Standard 944's weren't designed for the kind of hp bump a v8 can give you. While you can make one last for while, you'll always be worried about when it's going to break. And it eventually will, unless you drive like your grandmother....and then what's the point.

EricM
EricM SuperDork
12/15/12 9:02 a.m.

Wait. you are getting a free Porsche?

Run, don't walk, RUN AWAY.

( I speak from experience )

dean1484
dean1484 UltraDork
12/15/12 9:07 a.m.

When and if you get it running drive it regularly. porsche's hate to sit around.

stan_d
stan_d Dork
12/15/12 8:54 p.m.

I sucessfully put a carb flange on a intake and ditched cis fi

admc58
admc58 Reader
12/15/12 10:26 p.m.

1988 944 was the highest compression and HP of the 2.5L NA 944/924 cars. You should check if it has the M030 option. Probably not but worth$$.

WilberM3
WilberM3 Dork
12/16/12 12:24 a.m.

i checked the build sticker and it's an 87 actually.

so if i end up with it i'm gonna do the timing belts/water pump/rollers, fuel refresh, and drive it to see if i like them enough to invest further time/money... there appears to be a timing belt spring-tensioner looking at parts diagrams... is it ALL needing to be changed or are the belts/rollers enough?

also, the control arm balljoints are sloppy, they appear to be rebuildable, but also read about steel arm swapping, any thoughts on that?

Maroon92
Maroon92 MegaDork
12/16/12 7:26 a.m.

swapping to steel control arms on a 1987 would change the offset. I believe the whole front would have to be swapped out.

docwyte
docwyte HalfDork
12/17/12 9:02 a.m.

The aluminum control arm ball joints aren't technically rebuildable. Pretty sure a few 944 parts houses have come up with a rebuild kit for them though. Try Rennbay...

Javelin
Javelin MegaDork
12/17/12 9:04 a.m.
docwyte wrote: The aluminum control arm ball joints aren't technically rebuildable. Pretty sure a few 944 parts houses have come up with a rebuild kit for them though. Try Rennbay...

Tell that to my 86 944. Lots of kits available out there. I recommend the "steel competition" ones. Went together very nice, worked great.

miatame
miatame HalfDork
12/17/12 9:15 a.m.

Can't wait to see this thing...in my driveway...

Great driving car once you update all of the suspension. Sounds like an E30 with a PITA motor instead of the bulletproof M20. Why would you make an engine need a TB every 30k miles?! Dumb

How does the stock, non turbo, block take boost?

racerdave600
racerdave600 Dork
12/17/12 10:38 a.m.

I changed the ball joints in my aluminum arms without any issues. Not that hard really.

In reponse to miatame, I would simply buy a turbo to start with, it's a totally different car, and to duplicate the feel, you're going to spend more than simply buying the turbo. Having owned both, the differences when you drive them are startling. It's a lot more than just bolting on a turbo.

The single best mod you can make to the NA is to replace the throttle cam. In fact, it's the best mod I ever made to any car.

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