MS Savy People, Please Help... Whats Happening

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9YltSYEj-5naGVDMjg3eWl2RHc/edit?usp=sharing Datalog

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9YltSYEj-5nZTZtLXZBVUFFWGs/edit?usp=sharing Current Tune

I'm beginning to suspect a bad fuel pump or a regulator.... 10 psi and it'll run to redline no prob, 15psi and 4500-5000 it hits a wall it seems to run out of steam

Do you have a way to measure fuel pressure? It's entirely possible, but just remember that your VE table did look pretty wonky.

I hear people saying that a big pump will overwhelm the stock regulator. I don't know how plausible it is, but you're probably running with a regulator with over 100k miles, so....

Know of a challenge friendly regulator thats up to the task?

You can usually find Aeromotives for $100 or less used, but bear in mind there's some additional cost in fittings and hoses.

I've seen some people using the cheapo Ebay ones with some success, but that's one of those things i prefer to use "name brand" parts for. Aeromotive, AEM, Turbosmart, Fuelab, etc.

I use an Aeromotive 13109 on my car. Got the setup for $75 shipped, had to buy two fittings, sold off 5 i didn't need. (was a KL setup.)

It seems to be getting enough fuel, but I'm seeing the MAP driven acceleration enrichement and decel fuel cut false triggering. Try increasing the MAPdot threshold, or putting a fuel filter in the MAP sensor line.

So I'd like to redo my own Fuel VE and usin g the VE wizard Im not sure where I get these numbers from... The Max HP/Kpa, Torque/Kpa.... Where do I get these #'s from? Im running 460cc Injectors, a GT2871R @15psi on an F2T. redline is 6500. Id like to run~20psi. My AFR'S are not multiplied in. what range should my fuel load be?

Fuel load should be from the most vacuum at idle to the most boost (looks like around 210 kPa, in this case).

Ideally, you'd get the numbers from a dyno on a modified engine, but if it's internally stock, you could scale them up assuming the same torque curve shape as a stock motor.

This might get you started. It was for a 300hp turbo motor that ran well

Obviously use at your own risk!!!!

Dean can you email me that please?

Is that table for an F2T or does it not matter?

dansxr2 wrote: Dean can you email me that please?

The whole file / project? of just the screen clip?

Im just not understanding the range omakes f the #'s used for the Fuel VE... It pulls like a champ til ~ 45-5000 then feels like Italy hitting a wall. I really am unsure what the problem is, but I suspect the Fuel VE map, because if you let of the throttle in high RPM's it smooths out. If there was someone familiar with MegaSquirt that could tune it, I'd gladly do that. But being smack dab in the middle of West Virginia where seemingly nothing other that the big 3 exist with a 4-BarrelCarb makes it increasingly more difficult to figure out.

Is the wall hard enough that we'd notice it in a video?

Yes. I'll post tomorrow Ben, good idea

If you reduce the load and it clears up, it could be blowing spark out. What's your gap and details on the ignition system?

Dan,

Email sent.

The file I sent you is an older tune from a 2.0 firmware so it is probably going to ask for an update to tuner studio.

its got the stock ignition system with and MSD Blaster 2 Coil, Plugs are OE Replacements at stock Gap Settings. I'll replace with a colder plug, and tighten up the gap. How much should I close it up? I think the stock gap is ~.040

MSD Blaster 2 coils aren't particularly hot unless driven by a 6AL - they were meant to be a step up from 1968 era coils, but on a modern engine are OEM level at best and obsolete at worst.

Recommended ignition upgrade?

I have a spare 6A around here somewhere, might be a 6AL. I'll check for you if you're interested.

Ignition really shouldn't be an issue here, though.

Two points, though: If you're not using the blue NGK wires, get a set. If you're not using NGK ZFR7F11s, get them.

I run a .035-.040 gap on my car.

People have taken the stock ignition, even with stock coil and ignitor well into the 300whp range. You aren't there yet.

Did you ever replace that ignitor that was giving you fits at the Challenge? Or have you just left it alone after cleaning it?

http://s79.photobucket.com/user/dansXR2/media/20130531_060607_zpsfdd5d832.mp4.html Here's a video of the problem.

http://s79.photobucket.com/user/dansXR2/media/20130531_061051_zpscfe50399.mp4.html and another...

I swapped it out and haven't had an issue since. Let me know about that 6AL

Swank Force One wrote: Do you have a way to measure fuel pressure? It's entirely possible, but just remember that your VE table did look pretty wonky. I hear people saying that a big pump will overwhelm the stock regulator. I don't know how plausible it is, but you're probably running with a regulator with over 100k miles, so....

For posterity, an FPR being overwhelmed by a fuel pump would result in E36 M3 for idle quality, because the fuel pressure would be either above the pressure the reg was trying to achieve, fluctuate heavily, or both. But as you flowed more and more fuel out the injectors it would be able to control the fuel pressure better and better.

Leafy wrote:

Swank Force One wrote: Do you have a way to measure fuel pressure? It's entirely possible, but just remember that your VE table did look pretty wonky. I hear people saying that a big pump will overwhelm the stock regulator. I don't know how plausible it is, but you're probably running with a regulator with over 100k miles, so....

For posterity, an FPR being overwhelmed by a fuel pump would result in E36 M3 for idle quality, because the fuel pressure would be either above the pressure the reg was trying to achieve, fluctuate heavily, or both. But as you flowed more and more fuel out the injectors it would be able to control the fuel pressure better and better.

Even if you "tuned around" it?

Suppose you're probably right though.

I still think the VE table looks bad.