Something tells me their is an issue here.....
Came home last night to the head and tail lights on in my Sequoia. Walked to the side and saw all the dash lights were on too. Truck starts and drives fine but only way to get it off completely is to disconnect the battery.
My wife swears its the ghost in our house.
Time for a new ignition or something more simple?
Do you have trailer wiring?
You're going to need a priest well-versed in the science of exorcism.
That looks more like ignition on than just headlights. Does it have automatic headlights? The picture looks darkish so if it were dark outside, the ignition was on, and you had auto headlights that would explain the lights as a side effect of ignition being on, because there's no way your lights coming on also backfeeds and picks your gauges up off the bottom, lights up gear indicator, abs, cel etc. I would see if you can replicate the condition and while it is going on, put the key in the ignition and see if cycling it on and off will get everything to stay off. If that's the case, it's probably switch related. If not, it may be related to some long-dormant aftermarket remote-start system or some such.
OEM trailer wiring. No aftermarket wiring (that I know of). Only issue with wiring is the OBD port needs some messing with to get a reader connected.
Vigo - You are correct, it is like the key is in the ignition and placed in the "On" position, resulting in the auto headlights kicking it when it got dark. So I can remove the key and the engine shuts down but the truck thinks key is in and On. I have cycled the truck on and off a few times and left the battery unhooked over night, still doing it.
PCM not going to sleep (possibly).
Might have to have the PCM reflashed.
People wanted "walk me home" lights on their vehicles so now we use a computer to turn the car on and off instead of a simple switch.
Did it rain a lot recently? I know on the land cruisers of similar year there is a fuse box beside the factory dead pedal that holds most of the non engine relays that will sometimes get leaked on if the windshield/sunroof drains arnt the best. Mine just liked to blare the horn at random times and wouldn't turn off. I just removed the horn fuse and wired in a button for the horn instead of messing with the fuse box since the relays are on the back of it and it is a pain to get to.
MrChaos said:Did it rain a lot recently? I know on the land cruisers of similar year there is a fuse box beside the factory dead pedal that holds most of the non engine relays that will sometimes get leaked on if the windshield/sunroof drains arnt the best. Mine just liked to blare the horn at random times and wouldn't turn off. I just removed the horn fuse and wired in a button for the horn instead of messing with the fuse box since the relays are on the back of it and it is a pain to get to.
It did rain a lot recently. Hmm could be on to something
Does the ignition feel normal?
I know LX470's have a aluminum shaft inside the ignition tube connecting the key cylinder to the ignition switch. They tend to break, sometimes you can get the broken edges catch in just such a way to make it work like you describe, but not have enough torque to fully turn the ignition off. But it would feel funny when you turn it.
Otherwise, I suspect the rain+ leak theory.
Left the battery unhooked yesterday. Got back to the truck after work, plugged her back in and it was mostly normal again. I stopped at a couple places on the way home and it all the dash lights would either stay on for like 10 seconds or shut off like normal. Left it all hooked up last night and the alarm went off around 1am out of no where. Looking more like the rain+leak theory is the culprit. Will clear the drainage lines after work today and see how it looks
I've run around on the internet and this seems a common issue, i.e., electrical weirdness. The only theme I could find was generally it was poor contacts...somewhere. There are a lot of places the lighting circuit goes to; I would suggest open and close any electrical connections you can find. A little bit of WD-40 on the leads would be great. This might play into the "moisture" theory.
MrChaos said:Did it rain a lot recently? I know on the land cruisers of similar year there is a fuse box beside the factory dead pedal that holds most of the non engine relays that will sometimes get leaked on if the windshield/sunroof drains arnt the best.
How do you fix that? That is, where exactly are the drains? I used to park the ZAV (98 LX470) downhill and didn't have a problem. I parked it uphill and had a problem (water/mold.)
In reply to Dr. Hess :
Its like the windshield leaks only in heavy amounts of rain or it condensates enough to get water wicking into the fusebox. There might be a couple write ups in the 100 series section of ih8mud. here is where the issue was on a 100 usually related to horn stuck on or fog lights turn on with the horn
If its been raining a lot you could have water seeping in and getting into the junction box in the driver side kick panel. Are you also having issues with your fog lights also by chance?
Take off your driver side A pillar and check for evidence of water entry (just remove the two bolts holding on the grab handle and the panel just pulls off). I would have either the constant horn on or fog lights on or both on and checked the stalks, airbag, clock spring, relay etc. I eventually took off the A pillar cover and found that water was leaking in around the windshield and making its way down into the junction box/fuse box and there are quite a few relays behind the fuse box that were probably getting wet. I sealed up where the water was entering from and dried out the area using a blower and left it parked outside in the sun with the kick panel removed to let it all dry and everything went back to normal.
In reply to MrChaos :
Around the windshield seals is a good thought. Looks like Ill be digging into this interior a little more than I was hoping.
I've never actually cleaned the sunroof drains before but I know they get clogged on Discovery's a lot so there has to be a way. I've always heard you could stick a hanger or something into the drains. I'll have to look into it more
Build a garage? 
Dr. Hess said:MrChaos said:Did it rain a lot recently? I know on the land cruisers of similar year there is a fuse box beside the factory dead pedal that holds most of the non engine relays that will sometimes get leaked on if the windshield/sunroof drains arnt the best.
How do you fix that? That is, where exactly are the drains? I used to park the ZAV (98 LX470) downhill and didn't have a problem. I parked it uphill and had a problem (water/mold.)
From what I gather there are usually 4 holes around the sunroof. They have rubber hoses that drain down to below the truck. You can blow air through them and sometimes unclog the hose. Other people use stiff electrical wire or weedwhacker wire to unclog it. A hanger or something stiffer could damage the hose and cause additional leaking.
I haven't experienced fusebox issues with it, just one round of bad mold while it sat. I've had a fairly rough summer. My 3rd #UZFE timing belt job and 2nd #UZFE alternator is waiting in the driveway now. The ZAV is going back together (#2 TB and #1 Alternator).
I've used heavy duty weed whacker line on the RAV4 drains. A couple inches of water in the driver's foot well is not a fun thing, and that one drained down the A pillar.
In reply to Dr. Hess :
I realistically need to have starter #2 done when i get TB# 4 done on my land cruiser.
I checked the sunroof drain lines and all were clear. Pulled off the A-pillars and checked the windshield too, looked good. Everything looked dry in the footwell areas too.
It stopped doing the weird stuff for now. We'll see after it rains next.
In reply to MrChaos :
After #1 TB (98 LS) because of a blown front (oil pump) seal, I went back to the LX to work on it's missing problem. Started it up and the alternator was seized. Put it in the shop and by the time I had the alternator in my hand, I realized I was 1/3rd the way to a full timing belt job, so just went for it. It's almost back together now. And the 99 LS just had its alternator go out. This will be the 3rd O'Reilley's alternator. That LifeTime warranty isn't worth much when you lose a weekend swapping it in. I think I'm done with O'Reilley alternators. I put a new Rock Auto uprated one on the LX.
Does 'while you're in there' extend to that fan pulley? Seen that bearing fail many times and it's another half way to timing belt to replace it. I found OEM was ~100-120$.
Yeah, did that on the first 2 and have it coming in tomorrow on the 3rd. 1st one I didn't order from RA so got from Autozone at about 2x the price. 2nd and 3rd from RA, Gates for $68. Went full on for the timing belt sets and accessory belt sets, all tensioners, pulleys, etc. from Gates. Also full on for the LX's water hoses, including the one from the left side of the block to the oil filter sandwich cooler. That one was phun.
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