dsycks wrote:
1) Car has a winter package which I am told has an LSD rear. Is this a clutch or gear LSD?
Clutch
2) How can I find out the rears ratio?
There is a tag on the diff with ratio. S letter code equals LSD.
3) Best way to plug an E36 sunroof hole?
I used .044 aluminum and a bead roller. Its ugly but it weighs less than $250 w/ of CF and costs about $11.
4) Where can one find a non sunroof headliner?
No idea. Headliners are for street cars. Paint works.
5) Options to gut doors for weight? Are there manual roll up door cards and mechanical bits to dump the electric motors?
The mechanical bits weigh more due to big metal gears. If you want to save the weight gut it all and make lexan that fits into the door frame tracks. It will slide up/down and you can put a hitch pin thru the door to hold it up when you are parking outside.
6) Options for cutting tons of weight while not leaving the car a full on race shell? I recall seeing a few threads on serious weight trimming but can't find them now.
Other than the usual (seats, etc) you gotta commit to gutting everything to get real results.
7) Basic brake upgrades for track? Top drawer brake options? (after general maint of course).
M3 parts bot right up. Top shelf there are lots of options from $800 for Wilwoods to $6k for AP. M3 bits are a great start.
8) Chassis upgrades? I am eying the TMS chassis reinforcement kit but am a bit unclear as to what bits I should source from the M3 or aftermarket in order to get the most out of the chassis as possible.
A cage. Rear sways need a reinforcement for any track work at all. Subframe bushings - if they wear and are tracked heavily they will crack the sheetmetal they bolt to. Drop subframe, weld M3 reinforcement plates, upgrade bushings.
9) Cooling state of the art? I know early water pumps had issues but what about the radiator? Who is making the choice options as this car will at some point be cooling an LSx and not a S6.
speedwaymotors.com... search chevy radiator. Buy an aluminum one 26.5" wide or less and make it fit.
Stewart Warner water pump.
Bypass heater core (remove it, saves 40lbs), and remove all the water routing to the back of the engine.
Add an oil cooler
10) What am I not thinking about that I should be? Obvious things I need to know not on the list above?
Drop the oil pan... weld the oil pump nut, and baffle the pan.
Add a secondary fuel pump to keep from starving in hard corners on slicks.
Stiffen the motor and trans mounts to keep from breaking your fan and to help vagueness in the shifter under load.
Remove the factory fan, the factory aux fan, AC parts, compressor, pulley, etc and add a good quality electric where the AC condenser used to be. Saves weight, rotational mass and makes the front of the engine accessible.
Gut your bumper shocks and replace with aluminum tube.